Suspension Upgrades

[1BAD351 21]

Hey guy's been out of the loop for a while with some family stuff (almost lost my father) but everything is starting to get back to normal so I'm uncovering the beast. I know I had a thread a couple years ago about possibly doing a mustang II but I might go all out now on my 69 coupe.

 

Basically my car needs a full resto. Shock towers, frame rails, all suspension components, everything has to be replaced. so I was thinking of doing a Mustang II front end again (I know some guys don't like them, is there another option?) and maybe a 4 link out back. I've got a 2000 GT and I would love for my 69 to handle as good if not better than that car.

 

I just grabbed a TKO600 for her earlier this year (before my dad ended up in the hospital) and planned on swapping everything this winter but I have to deal with this suspension first. Thoughts? Opinions? Options? Don't hold anything back.

 

TIA!

[MustangChuck 16]

If you need shock towers and frame rails, there isn't (in my opinion) any reason not to go with a MII setup. I don't like cutting originals, but you need to anyway. And, the cost in pieces and labor is probably about the same at that point.

 

I recently saw a descent looking four link on fleaBay (seller is johnnylaw_online) for about $650 (+$100 shipping). Seemed complete, except for 9" rear housing. I am leaning more towards a 3 link setup, but that is WAY down the road.

 

I won't be doing the MII setup, so I don't have any recommendations there other than read up on all the setups you can and ask lots of questions both to their sales/tech departments and on the forums. I have heard of some people having issues getting their engines to sit right (Modular engines).

 

Good luck and I hope your father is improving quickly!

Chuck

[therebel 10]

What's you plans for the car? DD, canyon carver, Street Strip?

[Angel 24]

I've got the rod & custom mustang 2 kit installed. I did it because I'm putting a modular engine in it. Plus one of my towers was cracked. The kit is actually very easy to install. I did it in my back yard with common tools. The car won't be on the road for a while but I'm happy with it so far. TCI makes the kit that places the engine too high. My car will be a daily driver again with no track time.

[1BAD351 21]

The ultimate goal for the car is an overall monster in every aspect and I expect to spend every bit of $50k on it, maybe more. However that of course will be over the next 20 years or more. But I want to be sure as I'm slowly restoring the car to be smart and move in the right direction. But to answer what the car really is, it will be a daily driver on nice days and a weekend strip car.

 

I really want a car that handles well and can handle a serious amount of power. I'm looking for somewhere around 800 hp one day. For now it's around 400 and will probably stay that way for a while. Currently I'm running a 1975 351W stroked to 393. Installing a TKO600 and a posi 9" as soon as I figure out my suspension and framework.

 

Do you guys think a 3 link setup would be better than a 4 link?

[1BAD351 21]

Anyone ever run a kit like this?

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gls-comst-6770s/overview/model/mustang/year/1969

 

Looks like install would be much easier and at the same time help preserve the originality of the car. Should help handling out a good amount and allow me to run wider tires up front (I hope).

 

Thoughts? Has anyone ever run a kit like this?

 

 

 

Here's another one that is negative roll as opposed to non negative roll.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gls-comnr-6770d/overview/model/mustang/year/1969

[latoracing 256]

Glad you Father is getting better, and wish him a speedy recovery.

 

I personally went 3-link with a wats type locater for the rear. Having one component handling one job seems, for me, to work better. Some 4 links use the upper control arms as the locating device, while other's use a separate locater. I couldn't see running four bars and then have to install a panhard bar, just a little much. Now if you are going to install a parallel type four link, and tub the rear, that is a different story all to gather, but drag racing setups don't go around corners. I shopped for over a year for a suspension package, so I didn't have to engineer my own. I basically chose between two companies, Street or Track, and Griggs Racing. Both companies have top quality components, and the price range for either is not cheep. I didn't want to be replacing rod ends, or having to modify something (even though I did, just a little) to make it work. I didn't want to modify my shock towers on this build, so I went SoT with a Sport valve setup. The other factor was the coil overs, Shaun uses Bilstine shocks, that sold the package for me. Griggs might be right up your ally, since you are looking at replacing or even loosing your shock towers. DSE is also another company that has some cool stuff, that was not available when I was shopping, might be yet another company to look at, also not cheep.

 

Buy a package, you will save time, and money in the long run. I know that these companies spent a bunch of time testing to see how their components work, and make a first rate product. I know for certain Shaun spent a bunch of seat time in his test mule to find out if the parts he is selling work, and I am very confident that they do. Do your home work, don't skimp. My $.02

[1BAD351 21]

Found an awesome read on some of this stuff. Anyone know what setup really handles the best? Or have any opinions about any of this?

 

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/1306_front_coilover_suspension_guide/viewall.html

[buening 63]

Anyone ever run a kit like this?

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gls-comst-6770s/overview/model/mustang/year/1969

 

Looks like install would be much easier and at the same time help preserve the originality of the car. Should help handling out a good amount and allow me to run wider tires up front (I hope).

 

Thoughts? Has anyone ever run a kit like this?

 

 

 

Here's another one that is negative roll as opposed to non negative roll.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gls-comnr-6770d/overview/model/mustang/year/1969

 

If you are considering dropping that much into an aftermarket suspension, I personally would recommend the Street or Track front coilover suspension (and the rear 3-link if you have the money). Shaun actually designs his suspension and the front and rear suspension are balanced together. You get top of the line custom Bilstein shocks with his kits, rather than some off-the-shelf shock that comes in others.

 

http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html

 

http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Rear-Bilstein-3-Link-Coilover-System-pr-24572.html

 

I would only consider a MII suspension if I HAD to lose the shock towers, like for a modular motor swap. The geometry of the MII leaves a lot to be desired and doubt you'll be happy with the handling....depending on your expectations and how picky you are.

[1BAD351 21]

If you are considering dropping that much into an aftermarket suspension, I personally would recommend the Street or Track front coilover suspension (and the rear 3-link if you have the money). Shaun actually designs his suspension and the front and rear suspension are balanced together. You get top of the line custom Bilstein shocks with his kits, rather than some off-the-shelf shock that comes in others.

 

http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html

 

http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Rear-Bilstein-3-Link-Coilover-System-pr-24572.html

 

I would only consider a MII suspension if I HAD to lose the shock towers, like for a modular motor swap. The geometry of the MII leaves a lot to be desired and doubt you'll be happy with the handling....depending on your expectations and how picky you are.

 

Now that's an awesome suspension setup... That might actually be the answer I was looking for. I suppose I can keep the towers, I should be able to make plenty of power without having to stuff in a 429 or something. The smaller engine will give me better weight distribution anyway.

 

Any Idea what kind of brakes will fit that setup? Will stock drums fit? Will 99-04 Cobra brakes fit? I probably won't be able to drop the cash for the brakes and suspension at the same time unless I can do a cobra setup on it because I can get that done fairly cheap.

Edited October 8, 2013 by 1BAD351

[sixt9stang 36]

you should check out Maeco suspension too. I know they have very good results.

[fordguy69 24]

If money were no object, I would use the Detroit Speed stuff front and rear. Their stuff is extremely well engineered.

[1BAD351 21]

Wow... I'd love to have that looks awesome. Buttt there's no way I can swing that now. I'm actually debating just tossing the stock replacement stuff on for now, doing a Shelby drop with some roller purchases and an idler arm and saving up to do a nice suspension down the road a bit.

 

I've got to get my front frame frame rails, tq boxes and shock towers repaird, and I still need some parts to do my TKO 600 swap. So maybe a stock suspension at this point in time is my best bet. I have to pay someone to do the frame repairs because I really am not sure I'd trust myself to do that. So that's at least a 4k dollar bill to get that done alone.

[1BAD351 21]

If money were no object, I would use the Detroit Speed stuff front and rear. Their stuff is extremely well engineered.

 

Going to wake this thread back up since I'm getting closer to doing this. I've been doing some thinking and I think I'm leaning toward a setup like Detroit has or maybe a cheaper Mustang II setup for now if I can't swing the Detroit one. I actually sadly decided to sell my 2000 GT to help fund this, so the Detroit setup might not be completely out of the question (although it still probably is).

 

I want rack and pinion steering for sure since that has to get rebuilt too, need a whole new suspension and towers and such, and know I want to fit really wide tires up front (this is really important to me) so I don't think the stock setup is for me. The Mustang II or this Detroit setup will pretty much solve all my problems and give me a nice little bonus of having disk brakes.

 

Anyone have any input as to what Mustang II setups are good? I'm thinking I can get something that's halfway decent for probably half the cost and then maybe down the road upgrade to the Detroit setup.

 

 

 

Things I know I want:

 

1) Power Rack and Pinion Steering

2) Lots of front tire clearance

3) Shock towers gone so I can fit larger engines in the future

4) A halfway decent handling suspension for daily driving

 

 

 

Thoughts on this one?

 

http://stang-aholics.com/ShowItem/108389%2065%20-%2070%20Mustang%20Superide%20II%20Coil%20Over%20Suspension.aspx

Edited November 21, 2013 by 1BAD351

[Total Control Products 24]

What's your timeline like? We have some new stuff up our sleeves. :D

 

If you're in a fairly big hurry, we have had quite a few Mustang customers use our Chassisworks Street Machine front crossmember. Similar installation to the M-II setups but you aren't stuck with leftover 60s parts and geometry. It's all brand new parts designed in Pro-E and manufactured at our Sacramento factory.

 

It has virtually no bumpsteer in 6†of suspension travel and which enables predictable handling regardless of the vehicle’s changing pitch or roll state. Also, our proprietary g-Machine spindles are taller than OEM spindles and therefore increase camber gain during body roll, keeping tires in better contact with the road surface.

[1BAD351 21]

What's your timeline like? We have some new stuff up our sleeves. :D

 

If you're in a fairly big hurry, we have had quite a few Mustang customers use our Chassisworks Street Machine front crossmember. Similar installation to the M-II setups but you aren't stuck with leftover 60s parts and geometry. It's all brand new parts designed in Pro-E and manufactured at our Sacramento factory.

 

It has virtually no bumpsteer in 6†of suspension travel and which enables predictable handling regardless of the vehicle’s changing pitch or roll state. Also, our proprietary g-Machine spindles are taller than OEM spindles and therefore increase camber gain during body roll, keeping tires in better contact with the road surface.

 

Soon. When do you expect the new stuff to be out?

[1BAD351 21]

This might be crazy, but has anyone ever used this:

 

http://www.schwartzperformance.com/1964-1973-mustang-chassis-full-frame/

 

It looks like something I can do myself because I won't have to worry about much welding or having the car completely straight. Pretty much bolt up weld a few brackets and go. After I get all the old stuff off obviously.

[rwcstang 201]

This might be crazy, but has anyone ever used this:

 

http://www.schwartzperformance.com/1964-1973-mustang-chassis-full-frame/

 

It looks like something I can do myself because I won't have to worry about much welding or having the car completely straight. Pretty much bolt up weld a few brackets and go. After I get all the old stuff off obviously.

 

wow that isn't bad tbh. I think its time to save up again lol

[Total Control Products 24]

Soon. When do you expect the new stuff to be out?

We are hard at work right now, it just depends on how in depth you want to go into the car. The Street Machine crossmember you could have within a couple weeks. Just tell us what you want the hub width to be, 30 or 33 inches for power rack, and we'll put together whatever options you want.

 

 

If you want to go more aggressive, then the next step is the full chassis that we're developing. The rear is already done, here's a pic from SEMA. You can find more pics on STANGTV.COM HERE.

 

 

Here's a pic of our head of engineering scanning the front of the car last week.

 

 

In the end, the interior and rear floor area will look similar to the chassis we offer for the Camaro.

 

The benefit of a chassis like this is you can get the car to sit low (airbag low but still using coilovers) without losing headroom. Until now, no one built a chassis like this. The issue with traditional full frame conversions is they are an exercise in compromise. There is only such much vertical room to work with so the car will either sit high with proper travel, sit low with little travel, or you raise the floor and have no headroom.

Edited November 22, 2013 by Total Control Products

[1BAD351 21]

We are hard at work right now, it just depends on how in depth you want to go into the car. The Street Machine crossmember you could have within a couple weeks. Just tell us what you want the hub width to be, 30 or 33 inches for power rack, and we'll put together whatever options you want.

 

 

If you want to go more aggressive, then the next step is the full chassis that we're developing. The rear is already done, here's a pic from SEMA. You can find more pics on STANGTV.COM HERE.

 

 

What's the time frame, no pun intended for the full frame to be available for sale? also do you have an approximate price?

 

I'm interested in doing a whole conversion like the link I posted above. It will just solve a ton of my issues I have with my car all in one shot. What exactly does doing your conversion involve? Looks like all new floors and such? Also what does it include?

[Total Control Products 24]

What's the time frame, no pun intended for the full frame to be available for sale? also do you have an approximate price?

 

I'm interested in doing a whole conversion like the link I posted above. It will just solve a ton of my issues I have with my car all in one shot. What exactly does doing your conversion involve? Looks like all new floors and such? Also what does it include?

 

I can't give you an exact date right now, but it should be less than a year. Hopefully much sooner. Right now I can sell them for the same price as the Camaro kit. Once we're done with the first car, the pricing is going to go up because the Mustangs are going to be WAY more work for us to engineer and include WAY WAY more chassis components.

 

Installation involves cutting out the entire floor and removing the front clip. I can't release much more than that yet.

 

Here's a quick break down on what the Canted 4-link style chassis Contains:

Welded A-Arm & 4Link Frame, Engine and Transmission Mounts, Inner Rocker Panels, 6-Point Roll Bar, Seat Platform Tunnel Transition, Complete Floor with Transmission & Driveshaft Tunnels, Wheel Tubs & Package Tray Bulkhead, g-Machine Billet Upright Front Suspension, Canted 4-Link Suspension, Splined Antiroll Bars, Varishock Double Adjustable Coil-Overs, Springs & Billet Shock Mounts. - $17,879 as of 11/25/13

 

Some options include a factory welded FAB9â„¢ housing with standard or floating axles; three different brake options (up to 15" rotors); stainless fuel tank or racing cell; roll bar material, diameter, hardware, configuration changes; 4-way adjustable Remote Reservoir shocks; and some way cool parts that I will not put in writing yet.

[70mstang 11]

Dragging this to the top again :) Been watching the thread for a long time and I'm hoping to have a some $$ coming in soon. I have been tossing between TCP and Street or Track.

 

I like that TCP has the Shelby drop piece so I don't have to drill my purdy paint and can use the stock holes for the upper control arms.

 

"Total Control exclusive, billet-aluminum, offset-pivot-shaft option"

 

I watched a SOT install video .. didn't look too difficult.. have to drill holes in the top of the shock towers though.

 

Anyone have opinions one way or another? ease of installation, handling, wear & tear, lack of adjustment stories? Think I heard the base version of TCP lacks much ride height adjustment.