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dl69droptop

Subframe connectors?

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Yes they do help. I wrinkled the roof on the 70 Mustang in my avatar picture from drag racing it without subframe connecters. Lots of different brands out there. But I'm think verts my use different ones than coupes and fastbacks.

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I'm going with Total Control Products subframe connectors and connector supports with driveshaft safety loop. I'm going to need them with the stout 428 I'm building. With enough torque & hard launches, cracks will develop around the lower rear window corners. When you start to push things like that maniac maxum96 (just kidding - I mean it as a compliment maxum96), you sometimes get broken windows or - yipes - a wrinkled roof?! Total Control makes connectors for verts and hardtops. There are other brands. Never had a vert Mustang but I have to believe that they would improve overall handling on one.

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Yes they help. I thought verts came with them. VMF has a thread where a guy did various stiffening mods to his Stang then measured the amount of deflection with the same force. The 2 best to reduce twist were an export brace and a plate which bolts to the area behind the rear seat back. He reported the sub frame connectors only helped linear strength. I welded in a set of Competition Engineerings easily.

Edited by RPM

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I'm using the Global West connectors. If I had it to do over again I would use the Tinman Fabrication connectors.

 

If I may ask, why would you go with the Tinman subframe connectors over your Global West connectors?

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If I may ask, why would you go with the Tinman subframe connectors over your Global West connectors?

I'm curious, as well. I have a set of TinMans waiting to go on (now that the engine is in, it will happen when there is time and money...).

 

Chuck

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I don't have pics of my recently installed Tin Man SFCs but I do have pics of the Competition Engineering connectors on my cardomain site in sig. I replaced the CE SFCs because they were heavy, hung too low and didn't have a good overlap with the exisitng sub frames, so they still allowed more flex than what I expected from them. The Tin Man SFCs made a noticeable improvement in stiffness and lost weight at the same time.

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VMF has a thread where a guy did various stiffening mods to his Stang then measured the amount of deflection with the same force. The 2 best to reduce twist were an export brace and a plate which bolts to the area behind the rear seat back. He reported the sub frame connectors only helped linear strength.

 

I cannot seem to find that thread. Can you post a link to it if you know it? If you are talking about the thread that links back to stangnet and Mustbereel's tests, I know about that. I corresponded with him and he was very kind to address my questions

Edited by BigDuke6

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I cannot seem to find that thread. Can you post a link to it if you know it? If you are talking about the thread that links back to stangnet and Mustbereel's tests, I know about that. I corresponded with him and he was very kind to address my questions

 

I believe it was the Stangnet thread he was talking about. I remember that thread quite well.

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If I might jump in here.....I'm going to purchase the Tinman subframe connectors and in fact called and spoke with the owner today.....real nice guy. In conversation, he asked me what I was building and asked if I had considered traction bars. In fact, I have been looking at some from CalTracs. Tinman makes a set now that work with his subframe connectors and they appear to be very nice. For those of you who are more familiar with this type of item and their function, wonder if you might comment? Below is a link to the traction bars.

 

 

http://www.tinmanfabrication.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=146/category_id=59/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd146.htm

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I have the Global West round type welded in. They fit high, tight, and out of sight. Did it about 5 years ago and have been very happy with them.

 

It really tighten the car. I can now jack up one side of the car and rotate the tires front to back at the same time versus jacking up the front and then the back end separately. Before I would have been scared to attempt it. This is on a '70 fastback. I believe a convertible is slightly different but would recomend some type of subframe connectors on any early Mustang that you plan on driving.

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If I might jump in here.....I'm going to purchase the Tinman subframe connectors and in fact called and spoke with the owner today.....real nice guy. In conversation, he asked me what I was building and asked if I had considered traction bars. In fact, I have been looking at some from CalTracs. Tinman makes a set now that work with his subframe connectors and they appear to be very nice. For those of you who are more familiar with this type of item and their function, wonder if you might comment? Below is a link to the traction bars.

 

I would stick with the CalTracs or the Comp Engineering knock off of them if you plan to stay with leaf springs. They both have a bar that goes over the top of the spring to prevent wrap up whereas the one offered by Tinman are just like the old Shelby under rider bars. Look in the forum for a thread about one of our members hitting the 9s using Caltracs.

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I was actually thinking of building a set myself when I get that far. My idea was to tie the rockers together from side to side in the front and rear and then tie the torque boxes together front to back. Somewhat of an H shape I guess you'd call it. I saw someone selling a set like that but were kind of expensive if I remember correctly. I have a welder and plasma cutter and a steel yard handy so I may be a little ahead there. But I figured doing it myself I could make sure those things were high and tight.

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