Jump to content
Ash

Ash's 69 R-code

Recommended Posts

I saw it before they sent it to Florida to all of that work. The owner and his wife had done a bit of body work to begin with.

 

I had a good read through the thread, took me a while to get through but was an awesome read! I sent it on to a mate who wants to build an Eleanor too, got him a bit excited and motivated as well.

 

There are some great build on that site, loads of info!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hahaha, cheers!!

 

And I wonder why my wife gets upset when the shed things find their way into the house or the cars are lined up down the driveway. She goes "all that space and you have to bring it inside!" Well, it's not my fault I filled the shed up as soon as we moved in. She wasn't very interested either when I hinted at extending :huh:

 

:lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go for a 20 + car size, you'll only fill it straight away and want it to be bigger. Or just build it all as a shed with a little house on top, even better!!

 

We've got another 900 square metres of space up behind the shed and Dad and are eyeing off where to build another shed up there. We're still fighting drainage issues in the main shed when we get heavy rain. We're slowly defeating it but we fix one thing and then discover another. That's a good enough excuse to build more sheds yeah? Hahaha!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We're not here forever, I'd say just while the kids go through primary school. Then who knows where. My wife is into horses so she would like space for that. I'm into dirt bikes so I'd like that too. But its a great compromise for now, it's great for the kids to grow up, we're only one street over from the main street of town and I can make lots of noise!

Hopefully one day you too will have a bit more space. It is nice to spread out a bit and not feel on top of your neighbours. It sure is a bloke thing though to just want bigger and bigger!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a great shed, but like you said, the bigger the shed, the more crap you try to fill it with. I can barely move around mine and I still keep looking for other projects to buy before I finish the ones I have.

 

The master cylinder exchange was here in Wynnum (07) 33933188 but I think they are scattered around the country. So there should be one down your way.

 

That rust looks to be just outside surface so I do not think it is too bad. They usually rust from the inside out at the seam near the upper hinges but it appears yours is fine. Usually if your car does not leak through the cowl it will be a pretty good solid body and will have minimal rust elsewhere. If you wash you car and your front floor is wet, that's when it is time to worry. lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know what you mean on projects. I parted out my last one, was worth much more in parts, to buy the 69. Said I had had enough of them as they never get finished. Brought this and what did I end up with which was meant to be ready to go, another bloody project!! Oh well....

 

Thanks for the contact on the M/C place. I'll definitely being chasing that one up along the way. Appreciate it!

 

I popped the rubber grommet and the wire boot and had a feel around. Through the rubber grommet hole, with my little finger this far in I can start to feel rust

 

P3020055.jpg

 

And through wire boot, about this far in

 

P3020057.jpg

 

It's not looking real good. I had a look around and I haven't been able to find any repro pieces to replace this section. I can find 65/65 ones but not 69.

 

I know it is hard to see, but looking through the hole it doesn't look too bad at this point

 

P3020075.jpg

 

P3020074.jpg

 

And here you can just see the pieces of paint that have lifted, just how crappy it is looking underneath

 

P3020070.jpg

 

You can also see here, a small patch that has been put in. I picked at the edges and it lifted, it's only very thin.

The support for the guard bolt has also been tacked back on

 

P3020062.jpg

 

P3020061.jpg

 

I haven't noticed any leaking. But I've only washed it the once. It was a decent wash too and was also in the rain on the truck across the US so I would imagine I would have noticed if it was leaking but the interior was dry when I met it in L.A.

From looking through the grill, it looks ok

 

P3020077.jpg

 

And this whole section looks pretty good too

 

P3020078.jpg

 

And after having a good look over the pillar up the side of the windscreen, it looks worse then the other side. There are waves right a along it. Again, I know it is hard to see but you can see a real dip towards the top

 

P3020065.jpg

 

I'm going to see if I can get a mobile glass guy who I see around town every so often to drop in and remove the glass for me. I'll get the back out too. Guess I need to start ordering some paint stripper and supplies as well.

Edited by Ash

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That doesn't look too bad Ash. I had to replace my drivers side A pillar, mine were rusted and falling apart. I had to go to a salvage yard since they don't make reproductions yet. I'm sure they can't be too far out with the new popularity of the 69/70 models.

Your's looks like the rust doesn't go all the way through. You can reach those areas from inside the car once you have the interior out. The metal in yours looks solid, just looks like the PO did a crappy job and painted over surface rust.

 

Around the windshield was an area where mine was rotted away and looks like you need to replace that area too. The salvage yard cut that piece off a donor car for me too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dynacorn does make that area (door frame) BUT it is attached to a larger piece that costs 1500$ US to buy. I had to rebuild that area on my mach 1, I just slowly & carefully cut away the layers & rebuilt them.

 

Ash: I can check the spare apillar I have to areas you need I dont know whats left, Ive used it to cut small parts off for my car, But if there is anything left you need I can cut that area and send it to you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
just looks like the PO did a crappy job and painted over surface rust.

 

I think this, you got it spot on. I think the biggest flaw of the whole car is very poor prep before paint went down. There are lots of rough spots when you start looking. And with these signs of rust already showing, the future doesn't look too good for it if I were to leave it.

 

I think you're right too, it doesn't go all the way through for the majority of it. I've seen much worse so am happy to know I have a pretty good starting block to work with.

 

Did you remove the glass on your own when you did yours? Is it a difficult job, something I should get someone around to do or is it pretty straight forward?

 

Ash: I can check the spare apillar I have to areas you need I dont know whats left, Ive used it to cut small parts off for my car, But if there is anything left you need I can cut that area and send it to you

 

Thanks very much Cougar, some help when it comes time will be very much appreciated! I was going to put that out there to you US guys when I found out more of what I needed. I'm definitely not going to be able to get any metal here in Aus. It would have to be made from scratch.

 

I'll do as you guys have said, just cut away slowly and see what I find. I'm a little bit off getting to this as I'm running our of safe storage space for the parts I'm removing. And once more panels, glass and interior pieces start to come out too, they need to be stored safely. So that is my next plan of attack.

 

I really appreciate the help and advice guys!! I'm only really new to Mustangs and they are not the type of car I wish to make errors on. Your help goes a long way! :thumbup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No problem, Ill try to get you some pisctures next week so you know what i have. At this point it is missing some sections & has some rust.

 

To gain some access to the backside of that area, remove the lower inside kick panel. You will be able to see somewhat in there I believe. Its been 10 years since I took my car apart so Im going somewhat by memory & what I see with it apart.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool, I'll do that. I didn't realise it was that accessible from the inside. I need to get under the dash to remove the brake booster and pieces so I'll do it all in one hit and see if I can get some more pictures too.

 

It'd be great to see what pictures you have, cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I allllmoost had my glass out by myself, but got a crack right down the middle as I was pulling it out. So I smashed it to pieces ... sort of gratifying after all of the effort to get it out. Then I found new glass was about $100 at a swap meet. I spent about 2 days cleaning the goop out of the windshield frame so I'd have a clean surface to put the new glass back in after paint.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmmm, not so confident now at having a go myself. Not sure how easy it would be to find a glass here in Aus, I couldn't imagine it to be an easy task or one that is cheap. I'm sure it wouldn't take long for a professional to do so probably worth the few extra dollars to have done.

 

Man, I'm envious of how much choice you guys in the US have for cars, parts and tools. That really blew me away when I was over there to see how much is on offer and how well priced it all is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That pillar doesn't look too bad at all. All I would do is get some rust preventative in behind there. I filled my car with that crap from the roof to the torque boxes after I painted it. Just try to get all the junk blown out of all the nooks and crannies with the compressor and fill her up. You want it to run into all the seams. Rust needs oxygen, take it away and it slows right down.

 

As for the windscreen, get yourself some strong but small fishing line trace. Poke it through the edge of the screen so one end is on the inside and one out. Then drag it along the edge of the screen pulling the inside along at the same time. 10 minutes and you will have it out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was looking at a product like this

 

http://www.ppcco.com.au/dynax1.htm

 

These guys do all the POR15 products so it seems quite good. And it is advertised at seeping into the seams like you mentioned.

 

I couldn't get a very good photo of the pillar, it looks much worse in person. I'll try and get some better pics with some better lighting. It can be real hard at time swith my little camera getting decent photos in this shed.

 

That technique for the windscreen sounds quite doable. I might even have some trace somewhere. If not, I should have some thin stainless tie wire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That rust proofing sounds pretty good, but at that money you would want to get more than just a small can.

 

You will be fine with the windscreen. Just use a couple of screw drives on either end of the trace as hand grips/ T handles. One person on the inside and one outside working together make it easier, but you can do it alone. You won't break the screen because you really don't even touch it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you remember what brand of anit-corrosion you used? That's stuff I put up is expensive like you said. They say the can goes for 5mins until empty. Not sure how far that would go though.

I don't have a lot on offer around me and I don't go into Newcastle (about an hour away) that often. And when I do I'm always chasing my tail to get what has to be done done and get back home. So most of my shopping, all of it really, is now done with good old Google.

 

I've been sick for the last 3 days. My kids and wife have been too so not much has happened around here. It's going to take next week to get back on top of things again so hopefully soon I can get back into digging into this car.

 

I did however have a birthday present of mine arrive this week. Jay Brown's 'The great FE intake Comparo' book. Wow!! Talk about a world of info in that. I've only read a few bits and pieces and talk about in depth. If any of you guys like loads of tech info, even if you're not into FE's, grab it! Was only $37.95 and $16.95 to post to Australia.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ash, how are you mate? I've been watching your thread and enjoying the read but I think its about time I came up and had a look at you car progress in person, maybe on Monday or tuesday if you will be home, anyway I'll give you a ring....Ray

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Ray, how you doing? I was only thinking the other day I hadn't heard from you in a while. You've either been busy with work or you did end up selling your car? Come on over, I should be home for sure. But give us a call or shoot me an email. I may end up going to Newcastle on Monday maybe.

Do you still have your red Mach 1? Or did it end up selling?

Cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For my coupe I used a few cans of a comercial rust proofer that is sprayed with a body deadener spray gun. I found it a little too thick so I ended up using the good old fashion fish oil in the spray can. The only problem with that is the stink for the next couple of weeks. But it comes out almost like water but sets in a few hours to a thick dry film. In the past I have used a tectol and fish oil mix with great success.

 

For my mach1 I intend to use lanolin oil in the spray can. it does not last as long as the fish oil but it will allow me to spray subsequent layers without build up. Also because the mach is complete I cannot get into ever nook and cranny with the compressed air so if there is anyth mud left anywhere the lanolin will allow it to break up in the future. Fish oil would not. Also the lanolin tends to penetrate the seams more than fish oil. I use it on both cars on the underside of the bonnet and boot lid where there is surface rust and it seems to have pulled it up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Lemon Owner on the tips, they are going to be helpful!

 

I finished today making some shelves and getting things off the floor. I brought a heap of plastic tubs with lockable lids and made some solid shelving floor to ceiling to keep all the parts in while they are off the car. Man, do I have some shit! Been a while since I've laid eyes on a few things I found!

 

P3140031.jpg

 

P3140032.jpg

 

I've still got the problem now of where to keep the larger panels while they are off too. I looked at our caravan but I think my wife will shoot me if I was to fill it. Even though its also a work in progress, I think if Mustang parts were to fill it she wouldn't be impressed.

 

I've also now find the passenger door wont open. I've tried to use the key and lift the lock but it wont open. Do the door trims easily remove with the door closed so I can get to the lock from inside?

 

When people fix there cars to a rotisserie, what mounting points front and back are you using? Would it be the bumper bolts on the front? I haven't removed the rear valance yet to see just what would be a solid point along there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work man! I could use some of those shelves too. My hope this summer is to build a shop for just my mechanical/dirt bike crap. I figure more space is a better solution to me. Then I can hand over the garage to the wife. I've been storing all of my larger panels in the barn which works ok but were actually gonna start using it as a barn with animals and all that.

I saw a nice rotisserie for sale around here for for 950 or make offer, hmmm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...