Cougar20th

So Im getting ready for the next big step on my Mach1. Been atleast 2 years since I cut into it. I have to do both rear frame rails and the complete trunk floor. My thought is to get a 1 piece floor and tack the rails to that. Remove the old floor & rails. Then lift it all up from the bottom as one assembly. Wheel housings will be out and 1/4's still will need to be done so those arent to much of a concern. Then do all final welding after final alignment. I figure leaving the taillight panel in place will help with alignment when it comes time. Is that a good way to do it. The rails are so rusted that if I start taking the trunk floor out they are just gonna disintegrate. Also who makes the best one piece trunk floor? And who is the best dealer to get that from.

I learned that the very hard way. They came on my car when I bought it. Along with weak springs. Ended up ramming the shocks thru the mount and floor when I hit a good sized bump. That was before the restore started. Im still in the restore stage so I havent gotten far enough to fix that yet. But I have to replace the support.

Im considering redoing the floorpans in my Mach1 again once I get the car up to my house later this year. Im just not happy with how they seem to have come out. Im considering a full pan instead of the full sides I did last time. Wish the full pans had been available when I started but they came out a couple years after. http://www.cjponyparts.com/ has two different pans. At considerably differnt prices. Does anyone have any experience as to which would be better? http://www.cjponyparts.com/cp-fb-one-piece-floor-1-piece-cp-fb-1969-1970/p/FLP10/ or http://www.cjponyparts.com/dynacorn-full-floor-1-piece-coupe-fastback-1969-1970/p/3648D/ Also how do you get something that size into the car?

I personally like it alot. I like the idea & what they did. Fair more talent & ability than I have with a welder. That said there is one design aspect I dont like. That is the side scoops. I feel they should more reflect the original 69 shape. The other design aspect is something I would need to wait & see. That is the gap around the new rear window/hood. Im also wondering why they didnt start from scratch. About the only things left seems to be the A-pillars & maybe door shells.

ah crap, mine didnt have a track in there for the cable. Probably since someone had worked on it before poorly. How important is it. Without it is it just a matter of if being a pain to run the cable. My new torque box is fully welded in along with the new floors. I really dont want to redo it What are the 2 smaller holes for? Thanks for the pictures

Does anyone have a location of where the hole for the ebrake cable is supposed to be, My original torque box was so far gone that there wasnt anything left to measure. Of course the new torque box doesnt have it drilled.

Not a problem, It all comes down to what chances you feel you can take. You can minimuze them but you cant eliminate them. A bird, trees, bugs & rain all can cause issues. Even a neighbor who decides to mow there lawn is a issue. Its happened to me. Atleast the primer can be sanded if you end up with a issue. When Ive sprayed inside garages & Ive had dust to deal with as well. Nothings perfect. That said some say spray inside only others like myself do either.

Ive sprayed cars both ways. Spraying a 65 mustang currently outside. Outside you stand more chance of something getting in the paint. But try to spray on a day that there is little to no wind. That will help.

So Ive come to the conclusion it will save me a ton of time if I get the 1 piece trunk floor. I would have to replace everything from the rear seat area back anyway. I also have to do rear frame rails & torque boxes. Its a typical New England car. Pretty much everything has some rust on it. Has anyone done all this at one shot? My thought Weld in all sorts of braces to the inner 1/4er's, Cut out everything all the old trunk & frame Tack the new rails into place on the new trunk floor. Then lift it all into place as one piece. Leaving the original taillight panel in place for alignment. Later that & the 1/4'ers will be replaced. Does my process sound like it will work.

I can across this 70 one ebay, the whole nose tilts http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-Ford-Mustang-Modified-Road-Racing-and-Car-Shows-/170827905623?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item27c622fa57

No problem, Ill try to get you some pisctures next week so you know what i have. At this point it is missing some sections & has some rust. To gain some access to the backside of that area, remove the lower inside kick panel. You will be able to see somewhat in there I believe. Its been 10 years since I took my car apart so Im going somewhat by memory & what I see with it apart.

dynacorn does make that area (door frame) BUT it is attached to a larger piece that costs 1500$ US to buy. I had to rebuild that area on my mach 1, I just slowly & carefully cut away the layers & rebuilt them. Ash: I can check the spare apillar I have to areas you need I dont know whats left, Ive used it to cut small parts off for my car, But if there is anything left you need I can cut that area and send it to you

Ash, I would also like to thank you for the tire/wheel info. That will help very much when I get to that point. I was thinking of doing similar but didnt know where to start.

Ash, I would also like to thank you for the tire/wheel info. That will help very much when I get to that point. I was thinking of doing similar but didnt know where to start.

Whats the best book for getting dimesnions from, Ive got the 70 frame alignment jpg thats been floating around, I also have a book that shows the parts & how they fit but it doesnt have any numbers, Ive already replaced the front end stuff, My framerails were good, Now its time for the rear, Those rails are shot and need to be completely replaced, I want to make sure they land in the right places,