Jump to content

69 mach 408w build

Recommended Posts

finally got the third member finished up. i have never set up a third member and honestly was very confused about the process. to the point that i originally planned on having someone else set it up for me.


however, with the detailing and trusting of someone else, i decided to read up and try to do one myself. so far, the only thing i had to get was a press. these rearends seem to be loaded with items that need pressed on.


in particular, the pinion preload setup was most confusing. most information i found was for the crush sleeve instead of a solid spacer. in addition, reading 200 ft lbs in some how to's and then 20 in lbs in others had my head totally confused.


so if you haven't seen detailed pictures of the internals before here you go. for those experts who have done this countless times, then maybe you can point out anything you see i've done wrong.



here is a picture of the pinion with the larger daytona bearing pressed on and a solid spacer/shims compared to a crush sleeve. i searched for a couple hours and never saw a picture of what this item looked like.


trying to get a setup kit was a PITA. i found a moser kit that was for a daytona carrier and had the spacer kit.... but due to various issues and waiting for two months i never really received the entire kit. i ended up getting an typical richmond kit and then had to buy the larger daytona bearing and solid spacer separately.


the funny thing in all this was that i tried to use the old third member as reference. when i removed the carrier it was split into two pieces. i assumed that was probably the reason the car was parked back in 1983.


when i tore apart the original pinion support to see what a crush sleeve there wasn't anything! this really confused me. someone had setup the pinion with no spacer. probably the reason the carrier broke.



you can see the much larger rear bearing used for a Daytona pinion support.



the instructions in the moser kit called for 125 ft lbs on the pinion nut. i used an old one during the process since i had to install and reinstall a few times in order to get the right shims installed.


i drilled two holes in a piece of angle that i used to hold the yoke while torquing the pinion nut.




backside of a Strange Daytona pinion support. The races were pre-installed by Strange.



i media blasted the Nodular third member, chased all threads, painted two coats of DP74 red oxide, installed the new bearing/retainer and installed the ARP studs



bearings and 4.11 gear pressed onto the 31 spline Detroit Locker. the press made easy work for this and also held the assembly while torquing the fasteners that hold the ring gear.



i first made an attempt of using the specs on the Richmond gears to get the correct amount of pinion support shims. my measurements were very inconsistent. in the end i set the backlash per the ring gear spec and used gear compound. i went through that process four times until i finally got the best pattern.



marking compound on the teeth not marked after rotating a few times.



i had to make up a little tool to tighten up the spanners. i simply cut a couple bolts and welded them to a small plate.



i wanted to give some contrast to the pinion support and third member since they were painted separately.


the left is a 75/25 mix of DP74 (red oxide) and DP50 (gray). the right is DP74.



to simulate the machined spots, i masked everything off and sprayed a silver metallic.


the yoke is a Moser designed to be used with the large 1350 u-joints. i media blasted it, then sprayed epoxy followed by Seymour's cast blast. i then misted it with Dupli-Color Charcoal Metallic. The pinion snubber was painted Rustoleum Professional Series Stainless Steel.




Edited by BuckeyeDemon

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good job bud,

I too ran into the same inconsistant readings on the dial indicator and finally after 4 tries got it right and ran the pattern in and voila worked perfect.

The single best thing I did however was to Buy the Art Collins "How to rebuild 9" rear video" Art walks you through the steps from tear down to complete overhaul, he even covers that soild spacer like you used, which incidentially WHY di you use that thing?

I too ended up buying a little 12 ton press from harbor freight, along with a dial torque wrench to check rotational force.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

based on what i read:


1. solid spacer's won't continue to "crush" leading to potential damage

2. you can remove the yoke and reinstall without having to perform the setup again.

3. if you over torque the crush sleeve, it's done


plus it only cost ~$10.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good to me Dan! Those crush sleeves do suck. The spacer method is more trial and error with the dial indicator but in the end it isnt moving.


I have to rebuild an 8.8 Traction lok in the coming weeks. The axle shafts have .085" end play on both sides! doh! I think it's just the clutch paks as I drive it hard with a built solid C4 that shifts HARD and I have Lakewood Lift Bars and Lakewood Drag shocks.


Anyway, too many projects, as soon as the rainy season is over back to the 70. .. then I'll post some updates on my project thread.


Seeing people like you, that are just a bit ahead of me, progress really helps!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

i just phosphated a couple of parts using a parkerizing solution from Palmetto Enterprises. It was pretty easy process to do.




the pedal assembly needed a couple of fastener's phosphated, thus allowed me to finish up this assembly. you can probably see the rollerized pin assembly and teflon lined heim joints. i won't be installing the clutch assist spring because of the Centerforce diaphragm clutch.


the stainless trim on the brake pedal is reproduction and is garbage. unfortunately my original was worn. the clutch pedal trim is pretty nice and is a Scott Drake part. i had success polishing the accelerator pedal and emergency brake pedal trim. I'm going to have to find an original brake pedal trim and polish that up.






now that the weather is up to temp, it's back to finishing up the body work.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

i've spent the last week fitting the cowl panel, then the hood and the fenders.


the passenger side door/fender gap is the worst. the front of the hood, and fender extensions are all even now.


the contour of the aftermarket door didn't match up well with the fender. i had do some very light tapping on the edge of the door to get a smooth contour. i decided to add material to the fender on the passenger side. the drivers side will probably get material added in spots to the door.


i used the same basic procedure as illustrated on other panels. 1/8" rod tacked to the edge, welded on both sides and then ground flush. you can see i had an extra gap between the rod and the edge of the fender in spots.


the largest gap was at the curve on the bottom side of the door and the top side. the middle area contour matched but was excessive. i've got it roughed in and will go back in later (after all panels are being fit for the last time and widen this gap up a little more and smooth up the edge. the once edge up of the door just barely clears when opening.















Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

You are making the body lines look great. So many of the ones I see that are done do not pay much attention to that. I have been watching your progress for a long time now. I love how you did the frame rails. They look like a factory build. Attention to detail is great.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Demon, good job on the stang. how did you prep, and what did you paint the shaker with? don't know why you'd make roller bearing control arms w/o a way to replace the bearings.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good! I'm going to be in Cincinnati this weekend for a wedding, wish i had enough extra time to see this car in person!


I like your clutch rod setup, i did the same thing to my car!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for all the positive comments. i really appreciate it. it helps to get me through some of the tough body work!


RPM, are you referring to the spring perches? i haven't done anything yet with the upper or lower control arms. replacing the bearings in the springs perches would be pretty easy (i sure hope i never have to replace these since it will probably only get driven ~1000 miles per year). probably a couple smacks with a hammer and the shaft would pop out one side.


i first media blasted the shaker components. then applied some rage extreme in some areas of the base and midplate to smooth out any imperfections. i used evercoat glaze on the scoop in spots were it looked like it had stone chips or a hood closed on the backside. i then sprayed two coats of DP epoxy on all the parts. the shaker base and midplate received two coats of K36 fill primer and then were sanded to remove any sandscratches or smooth out the filler work. the shaker top, spacer, air cleaner lid and snorkle didn't receive any K36 but were topcoated following the DP. the base and midplate received a final coat of DP sealer and then were topcoated. after a few days, part of the inside of the shaker base and part of the lid were then masked and scuffed with gray scotchbrite and sprayed a flat black.


the clutch setup certainly took some time due to the relocation of parts. i was originally going to run a long style clutch, so i was trying to smoothe up the operation as much as possible. in the end i'm running the centerforce dual friction, so the clutch action during mock up felt very light and smooth. the headers and tranny swap were the prime reason for the clutch relocation. the headers are currently getting ceramic coated in a "cast iron" finish. i'll post pics hopefully in the next week of those. i don't want the headers attracting attention.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Demon, thanks for the shaker paint notes. At some point I'll need to do mine. I thought you guys were talking about the upper control arm roller bearing conversion. One post mentioned not being able to powder coat the control arm because the bearing can't be removed. I was just wondering why the kits and arms they sell didn't have the ability to remove the bearings so the arms could be powder coated. Again, very nice car.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would be you can remove the bearing. However if you powder coat the area the bearing goes back into the you wont be able to get it back in. Since you really don't want to powder coat that area just powdercoat and remove what you need to in that spot to get the bearing back in.


I have never powdercoated but can't you mask off areas and remove the masking before you bake it?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

whether it's poor fit from the factory an aftermarket door or whatever, i'm trying to improve the consistency in the panel gaps.


i've got the drivers side fender/door gap pretty close.


just like the passenger side, i'll wait to make the final cut/smooth to this gap upon final fit.


for the most part i had to add material to the top and bottom side. the center area was pretty good.


when tacking the 1/8" rod, it will very easily bend when you apply the heat. i had to remove the door so i could weld the back side, grind and also finish up plug welding the skin on this aftermarket door. i turn up the heat a little bit because the 1/8" rod absorbs more of the heat. i used compressed air most of the time to cool the panel. i've used water, but that can make a mess and water in the weld area is a PITA.

















Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

yes and no to your question revhead. my goal is 3/32" gaps which in general is on the tighter side of the tolerance in the specs.


there is only one spot that is really going to dictate how close i can go and that is the main body line in the door. right now it's pretty close to hitting the fender when i open/close it.


however, as mentioned i still need to cut this gap a little bit more (can't get a paint stick to fit right now). in addition, the edges that i've added material to are square. i still need to radius these slightly. i can always slide the fenders and hood forward 1/32" or so if needed. the interesting thing is that the closer the gap the more it shows any slight inconsistencies.


i get annoyed looking at nice cars with body panels sticking out or a big gap in one spot of the door and close in another. i'm trying my best to achieve consistency in this area. i hope it all works out in the end.


thanks for the concern.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have really enjoyed this thread, I feel like I am watching/reading a TV program like "My Musclecar", etc. I have learned a ton, and realize how far I have to go, and how nice it would be to finish my ride to the level that you are finishing yours.


You have raised the bar to new heights.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...