69 mach 408w build

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

thanks again for the compliments. however, keep in mind that i'm an amateur. there is a high probability that my methods probably aren't the best methods....

 

this will probably be the last post for a couple of weeks.

 

i spent some time fitting the front fender extensions. i had to file a couple of the holes and add some washers for spacers. in addition i had to drill out he spot welds in the front fender headlight bucket area to allow me to pull out the fender about a 1/16". i just couldn't get the left side to sit flush with the fender while having the edge next to the hood consistent with the fender. i didn't want to add a bunch of mud to fill the gap, so this seemed like the best solution.

 

i also had to torque on the hood right up by these extensions to get the contour to match. this area is such a PITA.

 

 

 

[buening 63]

Absolutely awesome progress man. Keep up the good work! The attention to detail is top notch.

 

Better make sure those door hinges are fresh, those tight gaps may make you cry if they start to sag after a year or two (post-paint).

[RPM 1,190]

Hope this isn't a repost. How does the dolly connect to the body of the car? Thanks. Wish it was mine!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Door hinges have already been freshened up.

 

i don't know if i have mentioned this before or not, but i have six full two liter bottles inside each door representing a loaded door weight. i did cause the door to drop about an 1/8" at the back with the extra weight.

 

the car is simply sitting on the box tube. i have some rubber separating the box tube from the primed frame rails. you can't put all your weight on the tail light panel because it will lift the front end!

 

if you make something like that, don't use the large air filled tires like i have. it's impossible to roll around because the wheels won't turn easily for changing direction. it was very easy to make and easy to take apart (i used some of the box tube from the first one to make the subframe connectors).

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

received the headers back from the ceramic coaters. the goal of this car is to look as stock as reasonably possible.

 

i went to the company to see some of the finishes in person. i decided on a cast iron finish (didn't want black or the sliver to stand out). they claimed it is a two step process because the base ceramic coating is the typical sterling silver finish (high heat and thick build) then followed by this cast iron finish (which is basically a darker flat gray).

 

i personally think they look really nice. i hope they hold up well. the pictures seem a little darker then they actually are.

 

these are the FPA stepped tube headers. if you can recall i had to cut off almost two complete primaries on the drivers side. i then had to piece together 1 3/4" mandrel bends and reweld. the tricky part was ensuring i could weld the tubes 360 degrees around the cut. with them assembled to the collector and flange, this isn't easy.

 

 

 

[Angel 24]

Those came out really nice! I think I may have to do something similar because I want larger primaries but I dont think any headers will work in that size with a rack. Did you use a tig or a mig for those?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i used a mig. however, i wish i had a tig

Edited July 12, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon

[buening 63]

 

 

 

the pedal assembly needed a couple of fastener's phosphated, thus allowed me to finish up this assembly. you can probably see the rollerized pin assembly and teflon lined heim joints. i won't be installing the clutch assist spring because of the Centerforce diaphragm clutch.

 

the stainless trim on the brake pedal is reproduction and is garbage. unfortunately my original was worn. the clutch pedal trim is pretty nice and is a Scott Drake part. i had success polishing the accelerator pedal and emergency brake pedal trim. I'm going to have to find an original brake pedal trim and polish that up.

 

 

 

 

Hey what paint did you use on the hanger and pedals? Also, which black paint did you use? I've got my assembly in primer and wouldn't mind attempting to get mine somewhat close to yours. I know the original hanger wasn't painted but yours looks pretty good. Thanks!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i think i used #1 indicated below on the arms and #4 indicated below on the support.

 

all parts were first sprayed with DP and then followed by the appropriate topcoat. i use the shopline series of single stage urethane for all my black needs and mix in a certain amount of flattener depending on what it is i'm painting. you can find those details buried on certain posts in this thread. the urethane isn't that expensive and one gallon of black is more than enough to paint anything i need black on the car. i have been making custom bike racks and this paint is exceptionally durable. i think i used maybe 15-20% flattener on items originally dipped?

 

1. Rust-Oleum Professional Stainless Steel (7519)

4. Seymour Stainless Steel (16-054)

 

Edited July 12, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon

[RPM 1,190]

Car parts on a kitchen table. Gotta love it. Some things are just bred into gear heads.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

add to that:

 

1. baking some parts in my kitchen oven at 130 F to cure the paint a little quicker

 

2. brewing some phosphate solution on the stove stop at around 200 F

 

3. assembling an entire 9" in my living room while watching march madness

 

life is good!

 

all those parts have now been boxed and put away though...

[RPM 1,190]

Does your wife have a twin sister?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i have proven that i'm unable to provide the emotional support to a woman due to my two main hobbies.:surrender:

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

I've been married for 21 Years. I guess I got lucky and found the one that tolerates my hobbies on the first try.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i had family in town this weekend, so i decided to put up the divider wall for the start of a poor man's paint booth. this has been in the plans for quite some time, but wanted to wait until the car was in the primer stage. i would have liked about two more feet but this size was a compromise for the three car garage (it's butted up against the two car garage door). i had originally planned on just covering the studs with plastic, but it didn't really cost that much more to put the drywall up.

 

i still need to get some inlet filtering in and will probably work on that as the car gets closer to paint...

 

[69RavenConv 286]

Outstanding. The lights are great. I've been contemplating how I'm gonna make my own "poor man's paint booth" in my 3-car shop and figured I would do the plastic tent thing with a box fan for negative pressure but I never even considered lighting. I see you got A/C in there too.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

the AC certainly takes an uncomfortable situation and makes it enjoyable!

 

 

i rolled the car outside for a change of scenery two weeks ago while doing a lot of sanding. i ended up drenched in sweat and ate up by the ants and bugs...

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

after skimming the panels and resealing, i had sprayed two coats of K36 2k primer. i've finally started knocking that down using 120 and 180 grit long board paper. K36 builds really well.

 

since i had skimmed the panels before primer, i could probably get away with one more application before paint. however, i'm planning on spraying two more times anyways, just to be sure the panels are flat.

 

that's about as exciting as this stage gets...

 

[jkskinsfan 19]

"Since i had skimmed the panels before primer, i could probably get away with one more application before paint. However, I'm planning on spraying two more times anyways, just to be sure the panels are flat."

 

Hi BuckeyeDemon. After you're completely satisfied that everything looks perfect, do one more coat of primer and sanding. I thought mine looked pretty good, but the Gloss of the Clear showed every little flaw. I know it's a PITA, but that one extra "Prime and Sand" could make the difference between an "Exceptional Looking" job and one that just looks "Really Good".

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

When I Painted my truck. I skimmed coated, Then 2 Coats of High build, blocked with 240P, 1 more coat of High build, Blocked with 400P, 1 more coat of high build, blocked with 800P, Base coat, 3 Coats of clear, Blocked with Black ICE 2000, 3 More coats of clear, Blocked with 2500 (Took Forever), Buffed and Polished.

 

Make sure you use guide coat on every step up to the second clear. and when blocking out the fist clear make sure you are very very very careful of the edges. My truck has a mirror like finish. and everybody ask how I did that good of a paint job in my garage.

 

I added some pics so people can see what I am talking about. Also my truck has not been washed for over a month. This is a 250 to 300 Hour Project. 2/3 of that was in final paint prep after all of the mud work was done. Mostly blocking.

 

When blocking do not block in the same direction too much. Avoid blocking the same spot over and over, move around a lot. Change your direction every few strokes. Block diagonally then the opposite diagonal angle. then up and down then left to right. then back to diagonal Always keep your black flat and apply minimal pressure to the block Let it float over the work. Keep it wet. Keep It wet. Keep it wet!!!. I use a sqiurt bottle and I soak my paper for a day prior to use. Check your paper regularly and change it often. Use a california style squeegy to check your progress. The is especially important when you get to the clear coat color sanding stages.

Edited July 18, 2010 by Silver_69_Coupe
Attaching Some Pics

[unfrozen1969 11]

How are you progressing, anymore photos?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

just in the primer/blocking stage...

 

i guarantee i won't be blocking the next two coats of primer (with the assumption i'm going to prime again after that) with 400. It doesn't level well and you can waste hours sanding. The last coats of primer will get finish sanded with 400-600.

 

 

 

i use dry guide coat...

[unfrozen1969 11]

I am watching this thread to see when you get the paint on..

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i'm really hoping this fall i can get it in paint. however, i keep going through the calendar to see how much time i have left and it isn't much.

 

i sometimes feel like i'm rushing a bit. if i feel uncomfortable, i will just have to accept the fact that i missed this fall, and will then have to wait for that perfect day or time in the spring when the temps come back up. i have lots of things i could work on over the winter if i do miss the opportunity. it just means i have to wait that much longer...

 

i've envisioned this car painted for the last 16 years of my life!

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

i'm really hoping this fall i can get it in paint. however, i keep going through the calendar to see how much time i have left and it isn't much.

 

i sometimes feel like i'm rushing a bit. if i feel uncomfortable, i will just have to accept the fact that i missed this fall, and will then have to wait for that perfect day or time in the spring when the temps come back up. i have lots of things i could work on over the winter if i do miss the opportunity. it just means i have to wait that much longer...

 

i've envisioned this car painted for the last 16 years of my life!

 

A couple of months compared to 16 years isn't much. Just don't rush it. That is the worst thing you can do.

 

Looking good so far. Looks like you are getting close to the end game. If there really is one. Lines are very good.

 

With the stuff I am doing right now I am wishing for AC in the garage or Cooler weather. Days over 100 degrees just suck.

 

I catch what I can in the morning before it gets too hot and then pace the house for the rest of the day complaining about my AC in the house that can't keep up with the heat.

 

Worse part it was in the mid to upper 80's all week and I had to work. Saturday gets here and boom 2 days of over 100.

 

There was an extra sanding priming step on the truck because I had a couple of spots that didn't block out as well as I wanted them to.