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simplyj

My 1969 Convertible Restomod - progress thread

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2 hours ago, simplyj said:

Refined it a bit and figured out a stable mount for the main gauges. Still requires drilling 4 holes and using m4 screws. 

Still working on the designs for the smaller gauges, but this is a start. 

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Nice Work  Jason. 

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Also had this bad boy delivered. High strung bad ass 1999 Continental engine to pilfer the C heads and IMRC adapters that will allow the use of the first gen mark viii intake manifold, which allows for more clearance and a better TB position for my planned shaker setup. Gotta tear it down and get the parts to the shop. 

Got the entire engine shipped to my house for less than 1/2 the price of the cheapest set of bare C heads I could find  

 

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2 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Cool.  Dr DOHC has some cool go fast parts for these engines so you can use them in vintage cars....

The shop that’s doing the work Justin built a carb’d 5.4 out of a navigator and dyno’d it. Stock rebuild other than the Sullivan intake/carb and headers and it put down slightly over 450hp. I’m looking for a more mild cruiser so will be sticking with the stock mark viii bottom end which will limit the power potential, especially with a manual (6 bolt cast crank can only handle about 400hp with a manual, slightly more with an auto). I’m hoping to be around 325hp with the tune and exhaust and I’ll be a happy camper. 

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7 hours ago, unilec said:

I see Aldi here in Perth are selling 3D printers $499, soon every home workshop will have one.

http://au-catalogues.com/aldi-catalogue-1647-727-3

The price point has come down so much and makes prototyping a cinch. The cost of materials used for the gauge rings was about $1.25. It was also an excuse to teach myself basic CAD, and since I have a buddy with a small home built cnc machine, I can eventually have him mill me parts as well. Much of the cost is in the design and prototyping stages, so if I can do that, the parts are infinitely more affordable. 

I’d get the adapter rings made in aluminum but I want them to match the rest of the fake chrome on the gauge panel when I restore it. 

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Stepped away from the 3D printer for a bit to get my hands dirty and started tearing down the parts motor. Heading up to the shop on Thursday so have to get the heads pulled. Despite being filthy on the outside, things were looking pretty good on the inside. 

99 continental engine being cannibalized for the c heads and intake adapter plates. 

 

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Finally almost done with the gauge cluster.   From left to right 1. Garmin speak mini gps 2. Speedo/tach 3. Combo gauge 4. A/F 

all speedhut gauges (except the garmin of course) and adapters 3D printed. 

Made the pusher adapters out of 1/4” aluminum roundbar and used a combination of an old soldering iron and small step drill to make holes the oem style replacement lenses.  

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11 minutes ago, Vicfreg said:

How did you cover the dash with the Carbon Fiber stuff....?

It’s just vinyl at this point. Wanted to get a feel for how it looks before either doing a carbon overlay or making a mold of the dash inlay to make a full carbon “cap”. Have a bunch of 2x2 twill laying around, but been talking with a buddy about experimenting with chopped carbon (a la Lamborghini). 

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32 minutes ago, Vicfreg said:

Cool. I am going to try and Hydro Dip mine to look like brushed aluminum, and do the console and door panel trim as well....

There are some very good brushed metal vinyls. 3m and Vvivid 

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finally got the car back from shop purgatory.  After months of hounding the guy to finish what he was supposed to do, i finally had enough and drove up there and took the car back.  

What he was supposed to do:

  1. weld in radiator support, battery tray, driver's inner fender
  2. install tinman subframe connectors
  3. rebuild engine
  4. install engine & transmission
  5. shorten driveshaft and install
  6. rebuild rear with posi 
  7. install fuel tank & run fuel lines
  8. install Accel DFI system
  9. re-wire entire car

What he actually did:

  1. install radiator support, battery tray, driver's inner fender
  2. installed tinman subframe connectors
  3. rebuild engine: 95 mark viii block with C head conversion utilizing 99 continental adapter plates
  4. installed engine & transmission but left me to modify the coolant crossover tube & rear heater hard lines
  5. rebuild rear with posi & 3.73 gears
  6. placed fuel tank in hole
  7. zip tied a few wires
  8. absolutely destroyed the paint on the entire car - not a single panel hasn't been scratched to hell.  

The paint wasn't perfect to start as it was a 30+ year paint job showing some age, but it was serviceable.  Oh well, looking like a full paint job is in my future.  Just thinking PPG white single stage to keep things simple.  

Despite being disappointed with the status of the car, I'm excited to have it back and to get to work.  The dream of having it ready to drive away in at my wedding (Oct 6th) are crushed, but I fully anticipate being able to get it finished by the spring. The seats and rest of the interior are done and waiting to go in. Gauge cluster done.  Engine wiring harness is mostly plug and play, but the full car wiring harness is going to be a royal PITA as well as paint and body.  I have plenty of experience painting motorcycles, but we'll see how that translates to car work.  Don't have it in the budget for a professional respray.  

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its new home

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the money shot

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On 8/22/2018 at 11:28 PM, RPM said:

I feel for you brother. Hang in there.

thanks.  Chopping away at this slowly.  Been working on cleaning up the engine bay, modifying the hard coolant lines, seam sealing the front end, and just plain getting organized.  Thankfully, he actually did finish a lot of the bigger things that would be much more difficult in a portable garage.  Have a number of friends coming by this weekend to try and knock out as much as we can.  

I did make a run to PA last night to pick up a new reproduction hood, full driver's door, and passenger door skin.  Since I have to repaint anyhow, might as well start with a more solid base.  

The hood I had on there was an old Carlisle find but needs a ton of work.  Picked up this hood with just a tiny ding towards the rear.  Will be much easier to work with a clean slate.

 

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Still the most worried about the wiring... I've done full rewires on a number of motorcycles but this is a whole new ballgame.  Thankfully one of my good friends is a electrical diagnostic tech for Jaguar/Land Rover and lives somewhat close by and is willing to help for beer.  

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my fiance was out of town this weekend so had some friends come by to wrench.  Seam sealed and repainted the engine compartment, sprayed the outside of the inner fenders with bedliner, cleaned up the suspension & started reinstalling it along with the Mustang Steve brackets and 13" cobra brake kit.  

Also, realized that my passenger door wasn't worth trying to save and picked up a dynacorn replacement.  Have a ton of parts coming from John's Mustang, including an entire weatherstripping kit.  

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still have to modify the other lower control arm 

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Your car is coming along very well. I have seen a few cars that can buy replacement patch panels for the lower doors, cannot believe no one has made a patch panel for the Mustangs, I would really like to keep my original doors, that also have rust issues at the inner bottoms.

http://shoebox-central.com/1949-1950-1951-ford-lower-door-bottom-rust-repair-patch-panel-kit

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