fvike
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Posts posted by fvike
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I've got a Moroso 1-piece gasket. They have two types, one for smooth rail pans and one for dimpled rail pans. So you must get the correct one! I also used the gray silicone, and for ease of installation, I have studs.
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On 8/6/2018 at 3:20 AM, barnett468 said:Another thing that can cause a fairly large vibration is having the wrong damper and/or flywheel on the engine. I have run across this problem a few times , however, this would have nothing to do with the engine running improperly etc.
Again, the 50 year old rubber. If it is the original damper, the rubber bonding in it could be weak, and the timing marks could move around a bit depending on the rpm. OP says there are no visible timing marks, so I guess it's set by ear anyways. So timing wise it would make no difference. But if the rubber in the damper is bad and it does move around, crank balancing would be affected I guess.
Of course, all this is hypothetical until @Viperpete chimes in with info. Pictures would be great. It will be difficult to get the engine running smooth without any working gauges. Temperature will tell alot.
One more thing; what kind of electric ignition did you put in? Did you gap the plugs to take advantage of a stronger spark?
Also, for carburetor tuning, a vacuum gauge is a great tool.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/03/31/vac-visual-quick-guide-vacuum-gauge-readings/
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Also, check that your motor mounts isn't shot. If they're the originals, that rubber is 50 years old now.
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Are you thinking of the Daniels DMC crimpers?
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Does anyone know where to get these Ford male bullet connectors that connects to the steering column? I'm installing an AAW electrical harness and I'm getting rid of that huge flat ugly GM connector they supplied. I'm reusing the original one.
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Crappy grille moldings challange accepted! Come at me bro!
The POS units is Corvex Mouldnings that I got from CJ Pony Parts. Let's just say I buy all my Mustang stuff from NPD now. I ended up getting NOS moldings from ebay. They have some shelf wear, but they fit perfect! A thorough polish will make them like new.
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Congrats! Must be an amazing feeling to get to drive it for the "first" time!
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On 6/24/2018 at 11:25 PM, 69RavenConv said:I don't think those connectors are reproduced.
There are new connectors on the American Autowire electrical harness. So someone has to reproduce them, or perhaps AAW does it themselves?
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I've always parked the car uphill, removed the radiator cap and let it idle. The radiator is then the highest point and air will escape there.
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@Vicfreg and @Mike65, you both are ahead of me in the AAW trail. Can you help me with these questions?
1. The back of the ignition switch is supposed to have a light. It isn't supplied in the kit. Did you just cut it out of the old harness, and if so, where did you power it from?
2. The P pin to the light switch is not in the AAW kit. Is this the parking light function in the front blinkers? Is that function not in the AAW kit?
3. I can not find anywhere in the AAW kit that power the lights in the deluxe doors. Where did you power those from?
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I think I paid half of that.
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It's made by Bahco, but I don't think they have any outlets in the US. But i found it on Amazon. But beware, this saw uses it's unique blades, It won't accept standard blades.
https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-Bp824-Large-Premium-Body/dp/B005HVW1R2
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I think a manual brakes MC (small bore) paired with an booster can make for sensitive brakes.
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I'd spend a day in a junkyard trying to find an untouched roller engine. 302 or 351W.
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I once had a bad lifter. It was a hydraulic lifter that had collapsed. I bought one new lifter of same brand and type, swapped the internals of the new one into the old lifter body, and didn't need to break it in again. That lifter is still in the engine. Might be the cheapest fix for you if it's only a lifter.
The way to identify it is to push down on the pushrod. A healthy lifter will bleed out the oil, and offer resistance. The bad one will go straight to the bottom.
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So, I'm in the middle of another T-56 Magnum transmission swap, but this time as a helper on my brothers 1970 Plymouth 'Cuda. So not much has been done with the Mustang lately. But I did get the Spal dual fans fitted to the radiator yesterday. It was a bit taller than the registry of the radiator, so a little bit of cutting had to be done. I also had to make pockets in the shroud for the hoses and the petcock drain. All in all I'm very satisfied with the installation. Maybe I'll paint the bolts black, but they are galvanized.
Cutting line for the upper portion. This ridge rests on the weld between the tank and registry on the radiator. So does the bottom one. You can see the hole in the shroud for the upper hose.
Done. The shroud fits very well, and is mounted solid. The radiator is an DeWitts. I'm very happy with the appearance of the radiator. Looks stock.
Mounted in the car, I got just under 1/2" clearance to the alternator pully, but the rubber in the mounting cradles are still a bit tight, so I have some fitting to do with those yet. The upper one don't fit at all.
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Cross measure it across the engine bay to find if it is off.
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They point up and slightly to the rear in the 1969 Mustang Sales Brochure.
Edit: Didn't realize the question was about '70 Mustangs. But yea, Like stangs-R-me says 2o'clock in the 1970 Sales Borchure.
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tranny swap
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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I've installed a T-56 Magnum in my Mustang from American Powertrain. My brother installed a T-56 Magnum in his Barracuda from Silversport Transmissions. The latter was clearly the better kit.
Also, have you considered the T-56? It is a bigger transmission, and a bit more work, but it shifts much nicer. The TKO feels like a railroad track shifter lever in comparison.