-
Content Count
961 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
17
Posts posted by jmlay
-
-
-
-
Edge of Tomorrow
-
Some good reading in this post. Unfortunately it is a quite a bit of reading:
-
-
The door glass is not the same for all models. Coupe/convertible windshield posts are at a different angle. Thus the windshield and door glass are different.
-
Ridge,
Do you also produce upper rear trim panel for a fold down? -
My recommendation. Would be the frame rail where it overlaps with the tq box. NOT the large flat area of the tq box between the frame rail and pinch weld as it has no support in that area.
-
Speed being inaccurate is doubt is a result of the cable or the speedometer. The driven gear on the cable needs to have have the appropriate number of teeth for the rear axle ration & tire diameter. If you want to do the math go for it but there are online calculators that will do the math for you. Here is a great example. Note: It asks C6 if 4 speed to provide the correct correct left or right helix gear. If using another trans one will need to know if the trans uses left or right gear.:
https://www.428cobrajet.org/speedo-calc -
18 hours ago, ksquared said:That's kinda what I was thinking but how do you get full weight on the wheels up on a hoist? I guess hoist at the wheels somehow?
4 post lift, on ramps, cribs or a few cinder blocks in the front yard if you want to be redneck.
-
-
On 3/20/2023 at 6:04 PM, EastYorkStang said:How much wider is a 1971 ? Would the spring perches be wider as well ?
67-70: 54 1/4”
71-73: 55 3/4”
-
-
-
I know of one for sale here in Dallas, my body guy. Complete minus drums. If your interested I can put you in touch.
-
-
-
While my measurements are accurate to this housing it appears my housing is NOT for a 67-70 Mustang/Cougar. I never intended to mislead anyone and apologize for any problems this may have caused!
Good news is now i get to spend some more money.
54 1/4” is what I have read elsewhere for flange to flange. This falls inline with @det0326 measurements. Add 5” to that and you 59 1/4” for axle flange to flange. This is also what I have read elsewhere.
Mike
-
-
I ASSUME what CJ is selling is the same as the rest you may find that will slip on a #8 screw. If it is to loose perhaps squeeze them with a pair of pliers to tighten them a bit. If to tight you might try to split the internal socket with side cutters so that it may expand.
-
Some relevant reading hear:
https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/progression-ignition-installation.1205703/page-2
-
-
I do not have the answer to your question but I do have a suggestion. Please consider buying the tools or take the parts to someone that has the appropriate tools to measure rather than trust plastigage.
On edit, here is the answer to your question in regards to "A-2" & "B-1", at the end of the video.:
https://www.dragzine.com/news/video-mahle-talks-markings-on-engine-bearings/ -
I was inferring you were just replacing the rails forward. Guess I should work on my reading comprehension as I get older.... I see now!
My car is currently with my body guy or I would happily take some measurements for you. As I recall the inner rocker & outer rocker should lineup & the bottom 90 deg bend should be even with the inner & outer rockers. I think I would start with getting the frame rails lined up per the drawings above & then line up the floor with the bottom of the rockers then clamp tograther. Next I would start clamping in the frame rails, core support per the drawings above. If all of that looks good put on your doors, fenders & hood to see how things line up. If you can adjust everything to get the lines correct start welding it all together. DO NOT weld anything until you have trial fit everything.
Reverse switch install
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
I have no experience with that harness. Sorry, can’t help with that.
Looks like that yoke is sticking too far out of the transmission extension housing.