mach1mike

my car was originally equipped w/351 "M" 4V with an FMX with A/C, power brakes, and power steering and it has those type radiator mounts and they are original to the car, I don't think it had anything to do with big block or not, it was the cooling option for what options your car came with

lots of good info, thanks for the input, is the route I will go, sounds easy enough and maintains stock look, thanks guys

well am running out of ideas on this one, in the picture, if you take the attach nut off the kick down link and the shift arm can you adjust the position of the arms? also based on the part number shown on the shift arm that is a 70's part number so is a little newer model trans the "D" at the beginning of the p/n denotes "1970's"

to the best of my recollection, it may even have a square hole in the arm with a square shaped end on the trans shift shaft, it may be as simple as taking the shift arm off and rotating it 90 degrees and reinstalling it, it sounds like that may be the issue since you are totally out of adjustability, that is the arm is just installed on the trans in the wrong position on the shifter linkage shaft where it goes in the trans, just a thought

can't quite remember but is the shifter arm on the trans splined, may be a tooth off, or as one of the other guys suggested, the C-4 you have is out of a different application or car with a column shift with a longer/shorter throw shifter arm, looks like you have the correct linkage for a C-4 from the picture. Looked at my assy manual and it shows that the 7326 linkage is for an "XP" or "XPL" transmission if that acronym translates to C-4 that is, hope this helps

can anyone recommend a good stock appearing electronic replacement distributor for a 351W? I know has been discussed before and have heard people mention the Pertronix brand , would like to maintain factory appearance but upgrade to electronic ignition, the motor is/will be stock with a mild RV cam upgrade but other than that as close to original as I can make it,(with a painless replacement wiring harness) thanks in advance

sounds like you have the wrong shifter linkage, either an FMX link on a C-4 or vice versa, they are different, the part number on the FMX link will have 7340 somewhere in the part number on the linkage, not sure on the part number for the linkage on a C-4 set-up

the shifter linkage on an FMX bends a little differently than on a C-4, the FMX linkage bends inboard toward the side of the transmission, the C-4 linkage bends outboard if memory serves correct, is probably the source of your problem as the linkages are slightly different in length/shape

would have to measure it, my drivers side looks pretty correct though, I ordered through a shop that does concours restorations, that is, the guy that ordered it for me new his stuff, he had been restoring points car mustangs and was a certified concours judge for years

it is a passenger side still in the wrapper but very dusty

I have an outer rocker panel but will have to check if its driver or passenger side, think its passenger, it is a reproduction I ordered back in 94 and is good quality, didn't need it when I had the metal work done on my car, I'm down in Decatur IL

The moog ones are the correct ones, that is the are identical to the old set I removed from my car, I think you are still supposed to utilize the sleeve as well as the bearing "cup" with the collar on it that fits into he frame bracket, the second set you illustrate are the wrong ones they are for a 64 or older than a 69

Looks like a bad valve cover gasket or intake gasket (oil coming from bottom up) to me

there should only be 2 of these and yes they are a PITA, they sandwich the halfs of the 2 housing pieces together

had pretty good luck with the trunk lid from NPD, it fit very well with minimal work, obviously rust free original is always better but if it is showing signs of surface rust on the lower lip chances are it has a lot on the interior around the lower pinch seem due to the pin on style mustang script/emblems on the lid (not water tight) the re-pops don't have the holes for the emblems and the offer stick on emblems rather than pin on which is what I'll probably end up doing just to avoid more rust issues in the future, hope this will help

Had the same issue, the original 69 pedal doesn't have the bracket, my car was converted to a 4-speed and the original power disc brake pedal pad was cut in half to accomodate the clutch pedal, ordered a replacement from CJ's and had to cut the "extra" bracket off to match the original pedal

bought a auto power disc brake pedal from CJ's for a 69, had to cut off a bracket that wasn't on the original and blend the welded area out flat, installed it in the car and the pedal portion is crooked as heck, believe it was made in China, is a piece of crap and am going to try and track down an original. would also recommend going with MOOG suspension parts (made in USA) have found they can be ordered through advance auto, have also noticed that Napa is no longer selling strictly made in USA stuff, would recommend rebuilding original parts rather than replacing with Chinese knock-offs,

left, FEB 13 dearborn

definetly re-skin original doors regardless whether new re-pop door or re-skin originals they are going to require "tweaking", have seen re-pop doors/shells so twisted that no matter what they won't line up with the door opening, some are better quality than others but reskinning originals is the way I would go, my 2 cents

use a non metallic scraper like a thin piece of plexi-glas tap it in and won't damage the surface on either side, make a couple and work them in from different sides and should break free

use the osborn assembly manuals, there are 4 total that cover chasis, engine, electrical, and body they illustrate the original engineering diagrams and will get you through most of the reassembly but you have to read the fine print depending on the car/engine you have, I was in the same boat as I didn't disassemble some portions of my car. found the manuals very helpful

can appreciate the mod but is sacrilege, thou shalt not cut up fastbacks

does anyone have or know of a good reference/illustration for the original equipment/linkage setup for the 4300 autolite carb. with automatic kickdown link on a 69 351 W "M" code

good deal right there, too bad already sold, looked like lots of good original stuff

would be interested in the components drier/radiator parts that bolt to the radiator core support if you still have them