Angel

Nice progress. Are the rotors on the wrong side? Looks like you have the right side on the left and vice versa. Are they SSBC rotors?

I saw those handles on an episode of Gearz. I think that is the only way I would ever consider going with shaved handles. Nice choice! For those who have never seen them before...

I know classic auto air seals off the cowl. Not sure about the vintage air, but i would be very surprised if receives air from the cowl.

That rear valance looks super sweet!

Looks great! Why not take the new tubs all the way to the frame rail? What size tire are you expecting to fit now?

So my Stainless Works headers came in today. This is the first time I've owned a nice set of stainless headers. They are sweet! Much better quality and fit than the Pacesetters. Most importantly, no interference with the frame rails. They tuck in closer to the block by about an inch, that's about what I needed on the passenger side. They do hang lower than I'd like, but they dont hang lower than the Hedman hedders I had on my 351, so they'll work. I installed the trans and while there are a few places that will need time with a BFH, it doesnt look like Ill need to cut the floor. The shifter hole might need to be enlarged as its too far back, surprisingly. Still need to set the proper engine/trans angle though, so that may change. Im going to try to figure that out tomorrow.

I used the Lokar but on an AOD. I liked it and it worked very well.

So I have room to play with now that the power steering pump and oil cooler are gone. For a swap like this, a remote oil filter kit is necessary if you want to run the stock oil cooler. I decided to remove the oil cooler all together and use an aftermarket cooler instead. The stock coolers are known to leak oil into the cooling system. I'll have to make some brackets to mount the alternator in the new location. They'll have to be beefy too since the alternator runs off of the supercharger belt.

Its more than 1/4" from what I can tell. I couldnt even bolt the header onto the head. I have a set of JBA shorty headers that I can use as a last resort, I just really want to try and make some long tubes fit first. Ive seen it done, but that car had an AJE front cross member.

So progress has been slow. I've been doing a lot of test fitting. I ordered a set of Pacesetter full length headers and while the driver side fit, the passenger side didnt. The cylinder 1 tube hits the frame on the passenger side. I can either reroute that single tube or buy another set that hugs the block better. So I have a set of Stainless Works headers on the way. From the pictures Ive seen, the tubes are routed closer to the block. We'll see if they fit. I had modified the motor mounts in order to lower the engine more and avoid hood clearance issues. Well it worked, problem is, I didnt have all accessories installed. I have three engines. The complete engine, which I'll be using from the 03, a long block from a 97 cobra, and a bare aluminum block. I didnt use the complete engine for mock up and now the alternator hits the frame. Stupid mistake. I dont want to notch the frame so I raised the engine back with stock motor mounts only to find that it still hits. Luckily, I am planning to install electric power steering so I hope to relocate the alternator to where the power steering pump is on the block. Other than that, I've just been collecting parts and doing a lot of research. Does anyone know if CJ pony parts will be having a sale anytime soon? Maybe for Veterans day or black Friday?

Mike, I sent you a PM. Looking forward to hearing from you. Thanks!

Hey guys. I'm swapping from AOD to T56. What I haven't been able to find is a decent clutch pedal. I'll be buying the clutch master kit and internal slave kit from modern drive line. I'm also looking to buy the Ron morris uni-cross member. If anyone has any of these parts for sale, let me know. Thanks.

That black insert looks sweet!

I did a lot of reading and researching on the forums before buying the unisteer power rack. To me, it was the best rack at that price range. It looks like a quality part in person, very well packaged. Plans changed and now I have a mustang 2 style suspension. I sold the rack soon after. My brother has a Unisteer manual rack in his 65 and he likes it. I would definitely buy the Unisteer rack again if I had to.

I have a Lecarra wheel. I love it. Great quality and price.

So I need to start putting together my fuel system. Im contemplating whether or not I want to run the engine on E85. Mainly for the additional power I can make. The disadvantages of it over gas are things I need to consider in further depth before making a decision. In either case, I think I found a tank and pump that will work for me. Anyone running this system from Tanks Inc? http://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-tank-kit-efi-22-gallon-with-sending-unit-and-400-lph-fuel-pump-1969-1970/p/FTKEFI6/?gclid=CLGB4crl8s8CFQuAfgodZB8MPg Also, I think I found a transmission cross member that I can use. If I could weld I would probably make a custom one. Since I cant, I'll most likely be buying this one from Ron Morris. http://www.cjponyparts.com/universal-transmission-crossmember-1964-1970/p/T5C6/?year=1969&gclid=CPSv-e7l8s8CFQx6fgodldcJIw

To the top!! Well I took a long break from the car to focus on my degree and I promised myself I would get back to the car when I was done with that. Im excited to start working on this thing again! Problem is, I have no clue where to start or what direction to take. Im in a rare position where I have both time (looking for a job) and money to invest in the mustang so I want to make some progress. The car is pretty much a gutted roller. I need a transmission mount for the T-56, a driveshaft, return fuel system, wire harness/computer to run the engine, a/c system, new gauges, and a clutch pedal for the auto-manual conversion. Those are the big items. However, because of the power I expect to make, Im really considering a mini tub and 4 link suspension. Where do you guys suggest I start? I noticed all the old pictures I uploaded have been deleted. So here are a few of the car before I tore it apart and where it is now. Im hoping that kick starting this thread again will motivate me to move it the right direction. As usual, all comments and suggestions are welcome.

After doing some research, I've decided to go this route. I will be selling my new power rack and pinion and buying a manual rack to go along with this system. I want to clean up the engine bay and this seems like a great way to do that. I like that it gets rid of the hydraulic system and im sure its lighter too.

Here's a pic of mine from 6 years ago. 17x7 front, 18x9.5 rear. 225/45/17 and 275/40/18. I will most likely be getting new wheels in the future because I want a wider rear wheel. Ill keep the 17 and 18 inch combo though because I like the staggered look.

Your car looks great as is. It stands out on any given day. Do you want it to stand out from other mustangs? I look at it this way. If I were to buy a new mustang, even if it looked good stock, would I want to keep it stock? Even good looking stock wheels could benefit from an increase in diameter. What about torq thrust wheels? Very common but they look great in a 17/18" wheel. Modern look with a classic feel. They'd look great on your car.

Those are the ones I plan to go with when the time comes. Reasonably priced as well.

Not a fan of stripes on a coupe but if I had to choose, I'd go with the solid stripe. Just my .02 cents. Although a solid stripe like the one Barnett posted might look good. The big C stripe looks better on the fastback than the coupe.

I dont like wheel trim. Its a bit of over kill for me.

I have the same issue. My rear passenger side is about 3/4" higher than the driver side. My car is gutted and on jack stands right now. However, it only sits on three jacks. Im sure its the body that's a bit twisted. No frame connectors either.

I used to drive my car in the rain all the time with the original stuff. However, I used RAIN X. That, my friends, makes all the difference. Give it a try.