Angel

While the car was at the body shop, I stayed busy with little projects. The biggest was having to modify the steering column to work with the rack and pinion. The shaft had to be cut to accept a DD shaft and the column had to be trimmed to accept a bearing retainer. Not too bad, just had to follow instructions. Freshened the column up while it was apart. Couple months later, car came back and it was time to take it apart again.

Both of my doors were rusted on the skin and the inner shell. I bought new doors from CJ pony. Neither fit perfect, but passenger was worse than the driver side. Had to do a lot of work to make the passenger side fit decent. The inner shell wasn’t stamped right and I had to work to move the door back enough to get an acceptable door/quarter gap. Latch hole wasn’t in the correct location. Had to weld/build up the front edge as well.

Here’s some progress I’ve made over the last year. I installed the headliner and decided to wait on the final touches until after paint. I cleaned up the firewall and dash. I painted it white to make it easier to see when working under the dash. Next, armed with very little welding experience, I bit the bullet and cut the tunnel to make room for the T-56. I raised the tunnel 5/8” from the tunnel brace forward and an inch from the brace to the firewall. This should allow me to keep the ash tray and use the stock carpet. Also had to relocate the shifter whole. I wouldn’t recommend doing it the way I did it, but it was a learning experience for me. I did some rust repair and started getting the car ready for paint. Went ahead and rebuilt the door hinges while they were out.

Looks good! F8 was one of the colors I was considering for my car, but it wasn’t dark enough. Love the color though.

Awesome! That will come in handy for myself and a lot of other people. Thank you.

Is there a column rebuild kit of some sort? I have mine out and would like to replace any worn parts it may have.

Awesome. Thank you very much. I will be going that route when I get to that point.

Thanks! So could I order their complete kit and use everything except the compressor and the lines you mentioned?

Awesome project and great work! I’m also swapping a 4.6 into the my car. Can you give details of your a/c system please? The limited space behind the passenger side cylinder head is kind of forcing me to run the a/c lines outside the engine bay like you did. I would really appreciate your help. Thanks!

Great progress man! Question. Have you had issues with stress cracks near the firewall or frame rails on your wife's car? I've heard of people having that issue after driving their car with that front suspension. Since the towers are removed, the original load path is no longer followed. I ask because I have a R&C front suspension in my car along with a 2003 Cobra engine.

Wow! car came out great. congrats!

That intake....wow!

Great progress. Are you going to keep the mold for the front valance? Should you ever need to repair or replace it?

Slow and steady wins the race! Im going to try and do the same. How much time a day do you spend on it?

Well some of the parts I ordered on Black Friday are starting to come in. Parts that were on back order should be here soon. I went with the Tanks inc 22 gallon fuel injection tank. Looks great inside and out. Also got the walbro 400lph pump. I'm hoping it'll be enough. Here are some pictures of the internal baffles.

Hmm. I also have global west SFC and i noticed during mock up that there seems to be an issue with how they mount. Now that I read your post, I wont be surprised if my set has that same issue.

Always loved that color. I'm biased though :)

Looks good man!

Nice. Any details on how you installed the handle?

That looks sweet! What a/c system are you going to run now that you filled the firewall in? Im looking at using classic auto air but I'm not sure if the ports will interfere with the passenger side head on my 4.6. I called and they have a universal unit that allows the hoses to be run through the kick panel and on the outside of the frame rails. Also, what fuel pump set up will you be using?

Car sounds great man!

Beautiful.

Great work!!! Do those inner wheel housings fit better than the ones made by Autoworks International? I would like to do this to my car one day and would rather not cut the frame rail. Also, why didnt they locate the housing flush with the frame rail? Seat belt related?

CJPP said they'll also be having a cyber Monday sale. He couldn't give me anymore details though.

I know this thread is a little old, but I didnt want to start a new one. I was pretty much dead set on buying Modern Driveline's hydraulic clutch kit because I read that cables often have issues with headers. A lot of people like hydraulic set ups better because they are smoother, require less effort, and are easier to route. I like them because they look cleaner. I dont mind paying more for it because I feel the benefits out weigh the cost. However, I saw a video today where a representative of Classic Recreations said they prefer to use cable systems. Here's a link...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkOVYNsraS4 So I used an old clutch cable as a mock up on my car and to my surprise, it cleared my headers with room to spare. I had a 2003 mach 1 and I actually liked the hard clutch pedal. Plus, I think an internal hydraulic release bearing is the only option for a T-56. If thats the case, Im not to fond of having to drop the trans if there's an issue with the slave. Has anyone had any bad experiences with cable clutch kits?