Mike65

Yes, you are correct, it will be hidden by the gravel shield & the chrome grille opening trim. I was thinking of using epoxy to rebuild it since it will be covered. Thanks Pak for the suggestion. Mike.

Yea Bruce I can get a pic on Thurs & post it tomorrow night.

I found the guy selling the repair kit for the lower tab to the front splash pan, the part that is corroded is where the center filler panel that is just below the grille where it bolts to the h/l extension.

On one of my headlight buckets the tab that the gravel shield (the panel the runs from the l/s h/l bucket to the r/s h/l bucket) attaches to is corroded & the hole to bolt the gravel shield is gone. Has anyone repaired these before? Any ideas?. I was thiking of making a piece out of sheet metal & then epoxying to the bucket. What do you all think?. TIA. Mike.

The compressor I already have is a rather large horizontal tank with the motor & the compressor head mounted on the top of the tank. I was thinking of building an enclosure for it & running the electrical line into the garage where I have an 30A, 240V fuseable on/off throw switch & also run the air line into the garage also so I can hook up to it very easily.

When I acquired my Coupe it was a parts car, it had no engine or trans, no interior, or doors, & had a rotted out l/s fender. I have had it for 10 years & work on it when I have the time usually on my days off & when I save some money I buy parts. I have worked around moving 4 times & 1 failed business venture, but I keep plugging away at it. I know it needs alot of work, but I love tinkering with it & want the enjoyement of driving it when it is finished. If I get frustrated I walk away for a couple hours, or a couple days, & then go back at it until it is done. Mike.

I am in the process of running a 220V line for my compressor & my welder & was thinking of putting the compressor outside to limit the noise in the garage & to save space as I only have a 1 car garage to work in. Has any one done this?, & what are your thoughts on doing this?. Any help would be appriciated. Mike.

Here are the measurements I came up with on my 69 Coupe. It is sitting on all 4 tires with the factory 2 piece shock tower braces. The inner fender panels all appear to be factory original. A-46 1/4" B-45 3/8" C-43 7/8" D-29 1/8" E-42 3/8" F-41 1/2" G-59" H-59 5/8" Measurements A,B,C,E, & F are from the inner edges of the square hole where the fender bolt clip goes in. Letters B,G, & H are measured through the open hood hinges as my hood is still on the car. Letter F is measured across the top of the radiator support, & letter D is measured from the inside edges of the shock top mounting plate bolts. Mike.

You will need the pedals for a 69.

Congrats on the great find.

Does the noise go away when you step off the gas?. When I replaced the ring & pinion in the rear of my (sold) 68 GT Coupe, when I would accelerate or hold a steady speed there was a whine from the rear end, if I would step off the gas the noise went away. I was told the pinion pre load was not set correctly causing the noise. Hope that helps.

I found the post that had the link to the pics for the drum brake parts you want to know where they go. The post is titled drum brake rebuild, where do these parts go?. I posted on it to get it to the first page for you.

Here is the link to the diagram he is looking for that will help were those parts go.

Unfortunately I got my car as semi-bare shell that was being stripped for parts for other cars. The under dash harness was chopped up & is now gone & the tail light harness was shot & is gone the only one I have still is the under hood harness that runs along the l/s inner fender panels from the firewall junction box to the lights & horn. :( Mike.

I am planning on using the amaerican autowire wiring kit for my 69 Coupe also, let us know how it goes.

Thank you, that post with the pics answered my questions. The piece I was asking about comes with the new skin. Thanks again. Mike.

CJ Pony parts sells the power brake pedal & the clutch pedal. Their catalog states the clutch pedal is the same for 69/70 but the power brake pedal is 69 only. Hope that helps. Mike.

To remove the cam the easiest way I found was to find a long bolt with the same threads as the threaded hole in the front of the cam & screw it into the front of the cam. Once you remove all the lifters as you slide the cam out you use the long bolt to hold the cam level. Hope that makes sense.

Here is a pic of the part that is left on the door shell of the skin. http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff499/NJMike69/100_0364.jpg

I made one from an extra deep 3/8" drive socket that I had.

Dave, any luck getting the main caps off yet?.

Menace, I have a few questions, In your last pic where you show the door lock acuator installed with the inside (door panel side) of the door facing away from you the 2" wide piece of the door structure that runs from the front to the back of the door assembley where the door skin is spot welded to in the window opening area, how did you get the piece of the door skin loose from the spot welds?. What brand door skins are you using?. What brand door lock acuators did you use?. Any info you can provide would be a BIG help. TIA. Mike.

I am working tomorrow but I can take a picture & post it on Thurs. What brand door skins did you use Buckeye?.

I seems to me to be the same gauge/thickness compared to the original door it replaced.

That is the type puller I have always used to remove the harmonic balancer, & a steering wheel.