69Stanger408

You can use something like this. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900368?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn6mmw9ed6AIVzsDACh0i4AlpEAQYDiABEgKBcfD_BwE

Digging the third brake light in the spoiler.

Little more of a cost, but you cannot go wrong with a Holley Sniper EFI unit. EFI brings the benefits of current technology into the classic car era without altering the look of the engine, looks just like a carb.

I went with LED tail lights and love them. Had to swap out the stock flasher for an LED type ($12). I purchased them through CJ Pony Parts (https://www.cjponyparts.com/led-taillight-assembly-1969/p/TLLED14/) but would not recommend using them as their customer service sucks, don't have time to wait 40+ minutes to talk to someone, however had no problems with this item.

I have the Wilwood MC, works great. I made a mounting plate out of aluminum to cover the booster holes and make for a clean look.

Much better on the black out rear panel!

Take it out, clean it and lube up the moving parts with wheel bearing grease. Also check the tension on the lock and door rods. I ran into the same issue, once I greased them up and made sure the tension was minimal at rest with the pull rods, they work like a champ.

I used a new relay, and no there is no diode in either one

I got JBAs with a 4R70W trans, Mustang II front suspension with power steering

No diode

Corrected connection. It works, no more trunk key required.

Finally got it to work in the following config: 86- 12v 87 - 12v 85 - Amber trigger wire from controller 30 - 12v Output to trunk actuator Thanks to all for the support.

When I connect battery to 86 and 30, orange (trigger) to 85, the relay opens when triggered, but I only get .30v on 87. This is driving me nuts.

If I measure between red power and orange, I get 12v when triggered. If I measure between ground and orange I get .65 when triggered. What's the connection on the relay? Relay pic attached.

Confused on the relay, the explanation above does not receive anything from the CLS controller (the amber wire), or is that what you are calling the switch source?

Ditto on Tristar Engines, excellent company with quality parts and most bang for your buck. You can modify the build as well with other parts as you see fit.

From the research on the internet and Amazon, the lights do not flash and there is no need to hold for 2.5 seconds, you get an immediate readout

Lights do not flash, they do however flash with the lock and unlock.

Electrical question: I want to use my keyless system to open my trunk. I have the "Install Gear Central Locking System (CLS)" uses key FOB remotes to lock/unlock doors which works fine. Additionally, on the key FOB is a trunk release button. On the CLS controller, there is an amber wire which states "Trunk Output -300mA. My trunk release is the Scott Drake unit, that has one power wire on the actual release mechanism (utilizes ground through the attachment points). If I send 12V directly to the red wire on the Drake unit, the release opens. Here is the issue I am running into, I installed a relay in the following configuration: Blade 86 - 12V constant Blade 30 - 12V constant (both wires (86 & 30) are connected together at the end to a 15 Amp fuse, then to battery) Blade 87 - Scott Drake Red Wire Blade 85 - CLS amber wire. My thought is the amber is a negative trigger that would open the relay and energize the circuit to pop the trunk. Well, nothing happens, thoughts? I attached the CLS wiring diagram.CLS Wiring Diagram.pdf

I did your suggestion and placed the edge in, not sealing, though it's close. Will continue to play with it. MTF suggest elongating the underside hole but it's already next to the weather strip track, to move further out would put me in the track.

Just reassembled m 69 March 1, do not recall seeing something that resembles what you have.

I went with Steele felts, supposedly they are original tooling.

Regarding the felt, found that out the hard way, hence to say I have another set on order.

Thanks for the info. I failed to explain correctly, I adjusted the lower bar in the most outboard position, no more adjustment so yes it does move top, however, not enought. I shimmed the upper vertical bolt 1/4", it is much better, glass is just about center in the door gap when up or down. Glass is still not where I'd like it, but not as noticable, another 1/8" would be dead on but I will look at the guide shims first as a taking in the slop may help it. These window adjustments with all new products is a real pain.i would like to give Ken at Mustangs to Fear a shout out. He took the time to discuss the matter and recommended the vertical guide bar shimming.

Plastic guides have been replaced with new ones, after replacement the "sloppyness" was unnoticeable (same amount of slop as the original). Vertical guide bars are original.