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Everything posted by 69Stanger408

  1. When I connect battery to 86 and 30, orange (trigger) to 85, the relay opens when triggered, but I only get .30v on 87. This is driving me nuts.
  2. If I measure between red power and orange, I get 12v when triggered. If I measure between ground and orange I get .65 when triggered. What's the connection on the relay? Relay pic attached.
  3. Confused on the relay, the explanation above does not receive anything from the CLS controller (the amber wire), or is that what you are calling the switch source?
  4. Ditto on Tristar Engines, excellent company with quality parts and most bang for your buck. You can modify the build as well with other parts as you see fit.
  5. From the research on the internet and Amazon, the lights do not flash and there is no need to hold for 2.5 seconds, you get an immediate readout
  6. Lights do not flash, they do however flash with the lock and unlock.
  7. Electrical question: I want to use my keyless system to open my trunk. I have the "Install Gear Central Locking System (CLS)" uses key FOB remotes to lock/unlock doors which works fine. Additionally, on the key FOB is a trunk release button. On the CLS controller, there is an amber wire which states "Trunk Output -300mA. My trunk release is the Scott Drake unit, that has one power wire on the actual release mechanism (utilizes ground through the attachment points). If I send 12V directly to the red wire on the Drake unit, the release opens. Here is the issue I am running into, I installed a relay in the following configuration: Blade 86 - 12V constant Blade 30 - 12V constant (both wires (86 & 30) are connected together at the end to a 15 Amp fuse, then to battery) Blade 87 - Scott Drake Red Wire Blade 85 - CLS amber wire. My thought is the amber is a negative trigger that would open the relay and energize the circuit to pop the trunk. Well, nothing happens, thoughts? I attached the CLS wiring diagram.CLS Wiring Diagram.pdf
  8. I did your suggestion and placed the edge in, not sealing, though it's close. Will continue to play with it. MTF suggest elongating the underside hole but it's already next to the weather strip track, to move further out would put me in the track.
  9. Just reassembled m 69 March 1, do not recall seeing something that resembles what you have.
  10. I went with Steele felts, supposedly they are original tooling.
  11. Regarding the felt, found that out the hard way, hence to say I have another set on order.
  12. Thanks for the info. I failed to explain correctly, I adjusted the lower bar in the most outboard position, no more adjustment so yes it does move top, however, not enought. I shimmed the upper vertical bolt 1/4", it is much better, glass is just about center in the door gap when up or down. Glass is still not where I'd like it, but not as noticable, another 1/8" would be dead on but I will look at the guide shims first as a taking in the slop may help it. These window adjustments with all new products is a real pain.i would like to give Ken at Mustangs to Fear a shout out. He took the time to discuss the matter and recommended the vertical guide bar shimming.
  13. Plastic guides have been replaced with new ones, after replacement the "sloppyness" was unnoticeable (same amount of slop as the original). Vertical guide bars are original.
  14. I have not installed the felts at this point as I do not want to damage them should they need removal for glass removal, however the window is spaced evenly in the gap. The glass is bolt in. Regardless where the bottom of the vertical guide bars are (in or out) does not effect the fully closed spacing against the weather strip.
  15. Been playing around with the door glass for awhile and it's time to ping the group. Any tricks for adjusting the angle where the top and front leading edge sits further into the weather strip? I've got new glass and new power unit (Ne-Relic). Replaced the glides (small plastic pieces) within the two vertical guides. I've moved the lower vertical bars in and out which really did not affect it much. The front to back is nice as well as the top. Just sits out to far. Passenger side is satisfactory, if I can get drivers side to match passenger I'd be happy.
  16. Both of mine are fberglass, still had to work them. One is from MTF, the other out of California, can let you know if interested
  17. Whats the trick to remove the vertical chrome channel that holds the weather strip on the door glass? I replaced my glass with bolt it for the power windows and need to swap out the channel. Also, what is the recommendation for gluing/epoxying it to the new glass?
  18. After several discussions, the shop realized the error they made in lack of communication and disclosure regarding the huge discrepancy (estimate 220 hours versus actual 660 hour), we came to an acceptable agreement.
  19. Got my car delivered from paint. House of Kolors Candy Brandywine over base black. Stripes and lettering all painted along with blacked out bright work throughout. Now onto the interior.
  20. Looking for guidance. I received a written estimate from a restoration shop to paint my car. The price was in the middle range of other shops I went to. I paid the amount throughout the process and when delivery of the car came the shop says I owe double the amount. Says its labor based and that is what it is. The estimated hours went from 250 hours to a final of 535 hours. I did add a few extras that were not in the original estimate but those hours would equate to approx 50 hours (snug fit fiberglass bumpers, move seat risers back, weld in new hoop). At no time did they tell me I was exceeding the estimate and when this came about they said I should of asked them where I was at prior to now. Quick rundown, I did 90% of the bodywork prior (panel replacements, blending, etc.) yet they said to warranty the work they'd have to media blast the car which they did and was included in the estimate. Nothing more was required other than re-doing the blasted skim work (which was included). What say you?
  21. I ran mine through the passenger floor next to the tunnel and will mount it in the center console.
  22. What is this part called and where do I find one? Need it for the drivers side, looks like a roof rail extension, but can't find it anywhere. Evidently one must remove it from an original quarter as repo quarters do not come with it.
  23. Heading off for exhaust, glass, alignment, and AC charge. Then back home for final assembly (looking forward to my Mustang to Fear seats!!)
  24. I'm in the process of purchasing halos but have not found anything that has great reviews. Which brand/part number for your installed halo headlights? Did you have any issues with the trim ring fitting?
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