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Everything posted by 69Stanger408

  1. Stripes and lettering painted and cleared. Ready for cut and buff then back to the the mechanical
  2. I completed the majority of the body work ( shock tower removal, both quarters, jams and rocker) myself. The shop I went to insisted on media blasting the car or they wouldn't warranty the paint. Said they need to verify the work was done correctly and if it was, would only be a small price to get it back to where it was. I was hesitant as I put lots of hours leveling out the areas and blending. Needless to say I gave the go ahead and allowed the blasting. The cost from a blasted car to finished paint along with a few extras was approx $20k. That included gapping the panels, tucking the bumbers, front and rear glass, custom painted stripes, and blacking out all the chrome. You get what you pay for. The shop warranted the paint for the life of the car while I own it. You could see the paint on my progress forum
  3. Looking at converting to power windows, heard about the glue in versus bolt in glass options. I need to get new glass all the way around so now is the time. What product did ya'll use for the power unit?
  4. I went with the Holley Sniper with Holley EFI fuel tank and the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor, all is controlled via the integrated ECU and touch screen. I have it connected to a performance built 4R70W AOD trans, which sync's to the ECU as well as the trans ECU (adjustable shift points). Engine is a 408 Stroker Windsor.
  5. Yes, he says it makes the c!ear much smoother and if any trash is in the first layers it comes out. His paint jobs are amazing so no questions here.
  6. I have a similar set-up, went with a Wilwood manual booster as the vacuum was insufficient for a stroked 408. Removing the booster also provided more clearance
  7. In the paint booth. House of Color Candy Brandy Wine over base coat black. Looking forward to the end of the week!!
  8. MTF - Are those the same seats you sell on your website?
  9. My pics all went bye-bye awhile ago, unsure if I'll keep dropping pics, but this the latest. Final stages prior to paint. Shaved the rear bumper and tightened up the body gaps. Hopefully paint in a month or so, waiting on Mustang To Fear seats. Removed the seat pans, moved back 4" (I'm 6'7"), need the seats prior to burning in the risers in new location.
  10. B&M. Moved AC to pass side to clean up AC lines which run between the fender and engine bay
  11. Regarding your hood hinges, how much travel remains compared to stock hinges? I purchased and am returning Ring Brothers as my hood lifted half way with their set up.

  12. CG in Texas, do you have pics of the reinforcement plates you used? I am 6'8" and needing lower seats. Was on the impression the seat platforms are vital to the structural integrity of the car.
  13. Not a big fan of the bulky, protruding tail lights on the 69. Does anyone know if the curvature of the panel matches between 67/8 and 9? My thought was to get a 67/8 tail panel, cut out the light area and weld it place of the 69 tail light area. Then I purchase the items necessary for a 67/8 and I have flush mounted tail lights....thoughts?
  14. Mach1 Driver - The AC compressor (peanut style) located on the passenger side top, alternator (Power Master) drivers side top, power steering pump (GM Type II) drivers side lower. To each his own on the "Bling", I'm building my dream car, for show and go. Couldn't beat the price from CVF Racing.
  15. I have the Wraptor from CVF Racing. 408 Stroker, 4R70W Trans, Dakota Digital, Holley Sniper & Holley Tank, Holley Dual Sync Dist, Vintage Air, Optima Red top
  16. Want to relocate the filler neck to the drivers side sail panel, I saw a picture of this mod a while back but can't find it anymore. Anyone see this before??
  17. Anyone have info on relocating the fuel fill neck from the rear to the drivers side sail panel (upper qtr) with a cobra style flip cap? I saw pics a few months ago on the web where a mod was done to a '69, it looked pretty cool. I can't for the life of me find the pics anymore :(
  18. I went with a Currie crate 9", you can choose spline, gears, and add brakes. I had them weld my four-link brackets prior to powder coat, they did at no charge, just had to mail them. https://www.currieenterprises.com/67-70-mustang-crate-rearends
  19. Way to go Vic....I pulled mine back and out, going to the original color scheme of Ford Chrome Yellow, lots of sanding in the engine bay to remove the new/old paint.
  20. I have the Total Cost Involved Mustang II front suspension & Heidts 4 link in the rear w/Currie 9" crate rearend w/3.89 gears.
  21. Not yet, in the build phase, I have 48" of flex pipe coming off the headers for my O2 sensor. The exhaust will run just like any other.
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