Johns Summer of 69

Few pics of the final blocking. Should be in final primer today (fingers crossed) then onto paint. I told him on Friday I have to have this in 2 weeks, because I will no longer have a car to use. I have been using my daughter's car. She will be needing it everyday by the end of the month. Even then, I still have to do all the interior by myself.

The rear window is out, and final blocking is coming along. The front window is scheduled for today to be removed. Next will be cleanup in the channels and then final primer. Then he talks about this mystical thing called paint ;)

I put Retrobelt in my wife's 65 and was not impressed with the quality or attention to detail. It had fine and coarse bolts, but not nuts (only coarse). I do realize the fine is for replacing the old seatbelts, but the bolt length needed for the brackets were way to long. So I used the fine thread and had to shop for some nuts. Also I was unimpressed with the thickness of the belts, no real instructions. On the hunt for some better alternatives with the 69 when it gets back from paint.

So now I'm guessing we are going to the "blocking" stage before final prime coat. I know the door have already gone thru that stage.

So he worked on the car for maybe 30-45 minutes last week. (can you tell my excitement?) While I am glad the rust is being cut out, the 6 months that it has taken to get to this stage is less than thrilling.

So we are getting closer to the 6 month mark (second week of June) and some photos showed up. We are now in the first stage of primer. Side scoop and hood scoop should be done tomorrow (?) When it gets to final primer is anyone's guess.... If you can't tell I'm just so over the lack of less than 1 hour's worth of work a week.

I've tried some searching, but haven't directly found the answers to what I am trying to do. I am short on classic mustang experts where I live. I do have similar problems on my 1969 and my 1964.5, but I believe they have different problems/needs. My goal is to have a comfortable driving experience that doesn't break the budget. Except for maybe new shocks, the rear suspension will not change. Right now both are "squirrelly" on the highway, feel EVERY crack in the road, and feel like something is about to fall off when there is something larger than a crack. I know I need to look into the steering part of this by making sure that its packed with grease with the possibility that it/they might need to be replaced. The 1969 has a rebuilt front suspension with the same shocks (Monroe) with 18 inch wheels with disc brakes. I believe the 18 wheels (previous owner put them on) are a part of the problem in its current setup. So should I get new shocks? Which brands are best for daily driver? Should I install a negative camber wedge kit? https://www.npdlink.com/store/catalog/Suspension_Tuning-367-1.html Should I also install a bump steering kit as well? https://www.cjponyparts.com/baer-bumpsteer-kit-1967-1969/p/BSK2/ What else would you recommend? (we are already at 55 + 355 + 190 = 600.00 in parts) The 1964.5 (I know I'm technically in the wrong forum, but I believe the problem/solutions can apply) I have not spent my full attention on yet. It has the "Granada swap" disc brakes and 15 inch wheels. I am not sure of the condition of the suspension parts. Should I just do the "Shelby drop" since it has 15 inch wheels? Purchase correct geometry spindles? http://www.discbrakeswap.com/Mustang Disc Brake Conversion Kits Parts SWAP.2.html and replace any worn out components What else would you recommend?

After installing an overflow can on my other project, I got these buttoned up. Can't wait to get them working on the car!

Did they use a contractor's 6-pack of that stuff? The only thing I can come up with since information on this wasn't as easy to access people just used what they could find locally to "fix" the problem.

These came in the mail yesterday. I had to work on the other project. Maybe I'll get to them tonight after work.

I agree. I would have to say this would be my first area to look into. Here is a great video talking about Cougar/Mustang brake boosters -

I realized that I hadn't rebuilt the taillights and didn't want them installing dingy old stuff if I was planning on replacing or fixing them up. Well during some part of their lives, some owner thought it would be a good idea to epoxy (or some other glue) a couple of the bezels. But they couldn't be bothered to take them off so the glue would dry properly. needless to say I would be keeping these. I have decided to update to LED versions which should arrive today. I have sanded/painted the housings, polished the bezels and have the new weather stripping ready to go. I should have them buttoned up this weekend.

a few more shots showcasing: rust removal, welding up badge holes and general smoothing.

went over there today to give some more money. The progress train is starting to move...

Initial bodywork is complete and first coat of primer before blocking

a couple of pics of the doors before they start the primer process.

Still in paint shop purgatory, BUT there has been progress. Cutting out some cancer (some of it old repair work) basic body shaping and primer.

I had to have the front of mine straightened because of an accident not the front passenger side which caused it to sit 3/4 of an inch lower. I got it towed, straightened and aligned for 550.00, so to me I would agreed 1000.00 sounds like too much.

First of all its your car - do whatever you want to it. If you want to make your engine bay with everything chrome, go ahead and do it. I think the problem with THIS engine bay is that it that what is chrome on all the top surfaces takes away from what most people are looking for when they open the hood - the engine. In my opinion if you want to show off your engine bay – make the engine the star of the show and everything else complement it.

Since the outside of the car is moving at the pace of molasses in a freezer, I had a little time this weekend to work on working on sound deadening the rear panels. Used some rust remover to get the surface rust off, then cleaned it with alcohol. I could already tell a difference in the way the metal sounded when I placed it on the floor. I will be adding lightweight insulation next to block heat and noise. I'm not planning on covering every interior surface with this, but "strategic strips" where needed.

I appreciate your candor. That's what I thought too, but I'm not the paint expert. I just seems like he's making it harder than it needs to be, or maybe more work in the long run. The problem for me is to find a good painter. 85% of them only do insurance work. The other 15% is made up of small shop painters, 1 year paint jobs businesses (which includes painting anything still connected to the car), frame-off restorers (mine isn't a low number, big block, fastback) or Gas Monkey Garage wannabes. I want to be driving the car (and show the wife were all the money is going) this year - soon. I have to rely on the fact that he comes recommended, I've seen his work (even cars painted years ago that still look great), and the price is reasonable for the work so far.

I know, it just appears like in the last 3 weeks he's done about 2 days worth of work.

A little more progress. Smoothing out the body panels. The glass still has to come out on the front and back and those areas sanded down. I asked about when would it be going into primer stage - "I'll get back with you on that..."

I have 18s on my car now (previous owner put them on) and it looks great, but it can be rough when the roads are not new and smooth. Also my wife's car is a Kia Soul with 18s (factory upgrade) and its the same ride with much newer suspension technology. I believe there's not enough tire to absorb the bumps in the road. When these tires wear out, I plan on going to a 17 inch wheel. I know its not going to be a world of difference, but it will help. Also you get what you pay for in the shocks you purchase. Just my 2 cents...

Has anyone tried to refit the rear seats?