meredithwm2

70 rag joint $50..Alternator 60 amp and all 351W mounting and adjuster brackets, tested and works great $100..BB block plate,$35..Q window Pass side clear $40..Trunk lock and key and gasket,$40..Pushrods 351C, NOS complete set 16,$45..70 Tail light housing and lense $35..C4 and C6 transmission kick down levers $15 each..70 windshield washer tank and pump date coded Jan 70 $30..70 351C engine lift brackets pair $35..70 A/C blower box with working motor looks complete no visible cracks $50.. Blower box to center vent,  duct  $30..70 factory A/C firewall plates and rubber gasket $50..351/302 A/C compressor bracket $40..69/70 Brand New FB windshield, tinted with mirror bracket installed...purchased from CJ Pony,sacrifice $100....Original Rear view mirror $25..Pass door window SS trim $25..Trunk lid mounted  lock reciever $10..Defroster duct $25..Window regulators and guides e-mail me your needs....all parts + shipping...Parts  in Nj ...e-mail...... njjoeh@optonline.net

Would like to share this video with you guys. In my opinion this is one of the best mustang models of all models. 
[media] [/media]
That is why i love 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429 so much!

As some of you know, I had to tear down my 357C for leaking valves. As I sit there staring at the engine compartment with just a short block & trans, I'm contemplating now would be the time to change torque converters and build another motor. 
 
I have a stout AOD and a 28 spline 9" w/ 4:11's, I want to build a Stroker either a Windsor or Cleveland, in addition I want to add a Power Brake booster and maybe some sort of Power Steering.  I don't want to get carried away with Torque & Horsepower above 550, but both can easily achieve that.
 
With the popularity of Stroker Kits and new developments of Alloy heads, both W & C prices have come down with the Cleveland just a little more pricey.
 
Here are my thoughts:
The Cleveland has thinner walls making it hard to go past  0.30. On the oiling side there are options for Oiling mods, which I already did with the 357C.
Plus my car is already set up for the Cleveland, such as radiator, water pump, Intake, Distributor, Shorty Headers, Valve Covers, fuel pump  etc..
I would have to change my front coil springs because of differences in motor weight.
Also, I have a big graphic sticker on the side of my car "351 Boss".
Just pulling spark plug wires on a Cleveland with tall Valve Covers is a chore, imagine changing plugs.
Another thought, I'd like to use long tube headers, with the shorty headers, one tube is a papers width away from the shock tower, this goes to show how tight the Cleveland's are, they have (small block short blocks) & (big block heads). The heads and tall valve covers prevented me from using a power brake booster.
 
 
The only thing I can see going for the W is better oiling, thicker walls and smaller heads allowing the ease of headers, change of spark plugs and the use of a power brake booster.
I would have to get all new external components such as oil pan, headers, intake, Dist, water pump, Alt brackets, Radiator and whatever else I can't remember for now.
 
The WOW factor for me is that the Windsor is smaller and must be a lot easier to work on.
 
What do you think?

Anybody going to the NSRA show in Louisville this weekend, Aug 7-10th? We will be there with my '69 Mach 1 thur afternoon til sun. morning.

hi,  i can't find it in the repair manuals,   the power steering cyl that mounts to the frame,  the bracket on the frame has a 3/4 or 7/8 hole that the cyl rod goes thru,  does any one have a picture of what or how is used to hold it in place?,    i made a nylon type washer to fit in the hole and 2 nylon washers outside the shole to hold it in place,  but  i don't think its right,   does any one know?,  thanks    jerry

New in the box, Pertronix Ignitor and Flamethrower coil, for V8's. $75 obo shipped in the continental U.S.
 
Thanks,
 
Matt

Came across all my old measurements from my stock converter to my new converter for my 4R70W after I wiped out a thrust bearing on my 408 and figured I would share them since the stock converter was deemed the problem.
The thrust failure was NOT a result of converter ballooning, but rather converter hub length and crank pilot hub depth "or lack there of"
Anyhow here are the measurements for comparison.

Abbreviations will be as follows

OC = Old Converter
NC = New Converter

1. Difference in over all height of converters measured from the tip of pilot hub to the end of the input on converter was .085 with the new converter being the shortest.

2. Overall depth of converters measured from inside of converter to outside lip of input shaft area... basically stuck a Dial caliper in the converter and extended it to the bottom inside of both converters and measured to the end of the input shaft area on each converter.
OC = 7.435
NC = 7.107
Delta = .328

3. Depth from the mounting pads to the edge of bell housing after converter was fully seated.
OC = .935
NC = 1.094
Delta = .159

4. Distance from mounting pads on converter to the tip of the converter pilot snout.
OC = .897
NC = .884
Delta = .013

5. Distance from Tip of Pilot Hub to edge of bell housing after seating both converters.
OC = .055
NC = .249
Delta = .194

6. Pilot hole depth for Old Crank that burnt the thrust was .600
Pilot hole depth on new crank is .590 so its a bit shallower and so far as I can tell all is going okay.

Anyhow not sure if these measurements will help anyone but there they are for future ref.

Basically if your going to run a stock converter behind a 302/351 Combo be sure that your converter seat depth from the mounting pads to the edge of the bell housing is at least 1", if not then you need to be sure you have the converter seated correctly and if so then your converter is probably not going to work without giving you problems...
Also if you have a rebuilt motor check the Pilot hub depth, and remember when you install the transmission that the converter should slide forward and backwards with ease and you should have about 3/8" of movement back and fourth... If you bolt it in and cant slide the converter your in for trouble.

Hello all after being here for over 7 years & seeing other builds I figured it is time for me to start one on my 69 Coupe. I aquired the 69 Coupe back in 2001, & when I aquired the car it was being used as a parts car stripped of almost anything useable. It was missing both doors, the interior except for the dash, the engine & the trans were long gone, & was missing one fender. After 4 moves & one failed business venture I am back working on the 69 Coupe. The Coupe was originally equipped with a 302, auto, 8" 2.79 rear, standard black interior, painted meadowlark yellow, & built in Metuchen, NJ on Nov 26th, 1968. My plans for the car are to make it a restomod, 331 stroker, 5 spd trans, 9" rear with 3.70 gears, painted green with black GT side stripes & a 1970 Mach-1 hood stripe with the Mach-1 hood scoop, front & rear spoilers. Black standard interior with 1970 Mustang high back buckets, center console & Mach-1 r/s dash panel with clock. As far as wheels & tires the wheels I had on my first Mustang were Ansen sprint slotted wheels & I want those or the 68/69 GT wheels with BFG T/A radials 235/60-15's. The wiring will be completely redone using an American auto wire kit for the 69 Mustang. I will get some pics put on soon.
Mike.

1970 Sportsroof, currently 302W and C4
What would I need to bolt in a FE engine (390 in this case)?
Anyone gone down this road and regretted it?
 
I'm guessing a C6 might be required or is thereT5 conversion parts available?

I know this has been discussed before, but as products keep evolving and I'm a novice I hope someone might have some recommendation.
 
I need a new cam for my stang.
 
Here are first my specs:
 
302 engine
Edelbrock Performer RPM Top end kit (Heads, manifold, chain...)
Edelbrock E-Street EFI
Stock Torque converter
3.55 rear gear
I don't know my compression, but my mechanic thinks it's 8.5:1
 
 
I had the Edelbrock Performer RMP Cam that came with the Top End kit, but it broke and I would like something else/better as I understand it's a pretty bad cam.
 
I would obviously like as much power as possible, but I'm mostly interested in a calm idle and low end rpm power, cause I use the car as an everyday car also in city traffic, and mainly have fun accelerating below 3000 rpm. So one that has a range starting at 1500rpm may be cool. Or would I loose too many overall horses?
 
A quick googling suggests that a Com Cam XE262H might be a good fit? Or what about the Voodoo cams. I read they should be good too? Or something else? So a nice idle with as much low rpm power is what I'd like :-)

Thanks,
Kaspar

Here's mine
 
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Or this.
 

Would it be hard to black out the moldings and bumper on this image? Thanks for taking the time to look guys, new on here!
 
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oH-YEFuEkbs/U3HotPaNYAI/AAAAAAAABuI/scDqTxkF-1c/s1600/Rare+1970+Ford+Mustang+Boss+302+Calypso+Coral+1.JPG
 
http://1-photos.ebizautos.com/used-1970-ford-mustang-boss302-9423-5096299-5-640.jpg

I really like the valve covers. They are cast aluminum and seem to be well made. The old covers were chrome and pitted and needed to be replaced. You can see them in my post from 3/22. I was looking for a different look and something that would be easier to maintain than the chrome.

The hood is new and I think maybe the original hood springs are getting stiff causing the hood to bend when pressing down to close.  If I lean on each side after it is fully closed I can get it to set almost level.
 
I'd like to fix it using a piece of 2x4 on the front edge and pressing down on the center but not sure if I would fix it of mess it up.
 
Any suggestions?
 
 

I thought this was a fun build.  I like the paint but think I'd personally swap the wheels out.  The one thing I'm trying to wrap my head around is the math.  They said they spent 40k on the car and parts (seems low) and 310 hours on the build.  It sold for 56.5k.  Now if you were paying straight rates at shop that is at least 20k in man hours probably closer to 25k.  Even if you own the business and pay 1/2 that, it doesn't seem like a lot of profit.  But most the time was volunteer time I think.  Not that I'm knocking them building the car I just always have a laugh at the prices and profits they show on reality shows.
 
 
 
 

Selling 1969 light teak gauge bezel and the deluxe gauge's as the housing is broke on the right side . . Very nice and lens are very clear. I can ship it as is or take it apart ?? .Ink stamp on back Sept 10 1968 early build date ..  Free shipping to lower 48 State's    $200.00   buy's it  .Cash M/O Cashier's Check paypal . Need more pic's email me at el70gato@yahoo.com   or any question's call Mark 248-904-7134

Hello all, I wanted to re-introduce myself now that I'm back with a new project. Last month I picked up a 1970 Mach 1 that was a little rough, but looked like it had an interesting history. It's a Grabber Orange 'DSO 89' car, loaded with options including shaker hood, tach, tilt, am/fm, deluxe seat belts, fold-down, AC, PS, PDB, intermittent wipers, convenience group, bumper guards, and a few others. The car was ordered new by a Ford executive, and delivered to Ford Headquarters. The car itself has been sitting untouched for 20 years waiting for a new owner to rescue it. The car's pretty straight, but still needs a lot of work and parts. I'm going for an 'as-delivered' look, but will stop short of concourse, and I may even put a T5 in there since I'm partial to manual shift cars. Thanks for reading my long post, I'll try and keep the thread updated as I go.
 
Here's some photos of the car:

Hi Guys, I have been trying to get hold of Mustang Project for two weeks now to discuss my faulty LED tail lights.
Have sent multiple emails from different accounts and left numerous phone messages.
So far, have had zero response.
I know they are still trading as one of the guys here has just purchased hood turn signal LEDs, he got an email response within an hour.
This is the worst experience I have had with a USA supplier, all other dealings have been good.
 
What are my options here? I have a product with a lifetime warranty that is faulty and now I'm spending money on international calls trying to get a response.
 
Any ideas?

I have never installed a headliner before so I am looking for tips on what to do and especially what not to do. 
I have the headliner in the car centered front to back and side to side.  It looks really good so for, I have not glued anything yet i just have folder binders around the pinch weld holding it. My question before I totally screw it up is how to do the area around the windsheild A pillar area and the sailpanel area, it just seems to want to bunch up and not lay down right. Will this work itself out once I start gluing it down or do you have to make cuts in particular areas to make it lay down nicely? If it has to be cut I surly need some instructions.  I have the wire retainers hooked on the rear bow and have it stretched and as I said all that looks nicely. My problems are the two areas I mentioned. I did a search and didn't find anything specific to my questions.  Also what kind of glue is recommended? 
 
Thanks Dave 
 
By the way this is a 1969 mach 1

Hi guys,

Unfortunately I can not find the old topic...
Three quick questions:
1) What is your tire pressure at 235/55 in 17" ?
2) How will this belts mounted ? (Screw, rubber spacer, belt, carpet, washer)?
3) Where did you have a Coolant Recovery Kit installed?

Images would be very, very great! Thank you!

BR
Tom