ray1970

BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Flop!!!!!!!!!!!!!Guilty....

Whating for the firing squad to show up at dawn. I was a desperate man....

I have the 351 base...I would like to add a .500 spacer under the carburetor and I cant mill the BT intake down that much because of some past mods I have done to it.. my best hope is to find a BB bottom at a reasonable price I prefer to find a fiberglass one That would make some other mods I need to do easier.Like the MSD thing.. I have made a piece to weld in hole but have got to it yet...

Is there proper install height on a shaker?(concours) Or like me you get what you get..

Did that on one of my past mustangs when that stuff was in every junkyard. Worked very well you get cold air without a lot of work or mods. Today just try to find an air cleaner base at a junk yard from the 1970s... NOT! Trying to find any big block base i can mod to lower my shaker so i can put NOS on it without paying 400.00$ for a repo base.

What about the vac actuator is it necessary or not? My actuator died many moons ago so i just pulled it and the flapper out. Cant see were cold air all the time is a bad thing? ​Did have to modify the lower plate to fit my current MSD distributor--- 351c motor As a side note the motor runs the same with the shaker assy. on as with it off As in no air filter assy. at all

Maybe something with a little petena........ The no wax look!

Did just like that... Only takes a couple more beers.. Try it using an old Lincoln 220 welder... Even more fun.. 30 years ago..

Looks very nice..When I did mine I welded every seam there was.. Maybe an over kill but there was a welder in my hands and beer in the cooler so why not.......If I need to replace the tower someday I will deal with it than.

i keep whating for you to start chasing the bad guys like mad max..

I have seen lots of people over the years trying to fix there over heating problem with some mystery coolant additive and this would include myself.. None have worked to date..My fix on the mustang was to just replace ALL the 40+ year old stuff with better if possible.. On my dirt bike I just needed to drive it differently. I try not to forget time and technology move on.. There my be an answer down the road....Just like motor stroker in a can. (This my need to be repeated weekly to get desired results) Just having a little fun here... I do think it was very important that someone gave the coolant a shot than wrote up a honest result good or bad. I am more than guilty of trying something that did not work and just letting people find out for themselves ..

Barnett468....... You can say it....Its just a miracle in a can that pep boy and the rest have a complete shelf of. I have a pint of motor rebuild if anybody is interested?

The way I see it.. Its your hood..Cut as you please.The next owner will probably paint the car pink and put monster fender flares on it with a fuzzy light blue interior ... Top this off with a SBC motor and a blower that does not work.. Dont forget the moon roof and 3 foot rear spoiler .......100.000.00$ pro mod. All warm just thinking about it..

Let me change that we have hydraulic run with an electric motor inside the cab. My not be the same.

Use that on are mud truck and it works very well could not be happier. Just never herd it called EPSA

For those of us that have no idea what EPSA is my be a short run down would be in order. I have no idea what it is......Will it flush my toilet faster?

Not shore what the TPS would have to do with the transmission controller please explain how it mite interfere? I dont care how good someone tells you a carb is it is still not FI Carbs are 100+ year old tech that has changed very little. cars have been using FI from 1976 on so its not that new in itself but it has come a long ways..

The fitech body is a 850cfm that I think would be better than a 650 for your motor(650 to small) I have had the fitech for almost a year now and I would not trade it for any carb. sold my 750-950-1050 and dont want them back.....408C....

My lines are very rusty..Have new ones in stock but have been whating till the next time i pull the motor to put them on. Problem is the motor just keeps running. Not much room down there to work on rusty lines.

I had to remove the export brace and jack the car from just behind the tower and it flexed just enuf to get it in. May not work on more solid cars......

Things can get very tight..

I stick welded mine but at that time im not shore they had Mig welders.. The stick welder is long gone and now have a snap-on 110 mig...... paid 1200.00$ for it 23 years ago..

When the day comes cleaning it out may take some time..Unless i put my car in it........my take longer.

My fathers barn the beams run 1 piece full length 60+ ft try to get those at home depo Restored a lot of cars in it. 1.out 2.in 3.top 4. old cow stalls.....small parts paint booth.

Just found 1 of mine from 35 year ago..Plus a pile of 70 stuff.on the 3rd floor of a barn..