Mach1 Driver

I would think that the x-brace is what stiffens-up the car. SFCs without the brace have shown to be ineffective, but I haven't seen a test with the brace. The TCP looks like a nice unit.

Who's do you recommend fvike?

Thanks BSWOR for all your work. While you're at it I think the store has a problem: I'd like to help by subscribing but I couldn't get it to take my money

sounds like the metal is calling to you...show us pictures when its done

The article didn't talk about the shock towers because he eventually removed them for coil overs. I think the reinforcing kits are just good insurance for a part of the car that takes a pounding from many directions and eventually fatigues. Chrysler torsion bars were 0.960" diameter of unspecified wall thickness- and obviously designed to twist a lot. A SFC that is 50-60" long will twist- the only test available (above) shows that they do nothing to prevent torsional motion. They must do something but human nature being what it is, could you really tell (before and after) that they were on the car if you didn't know they were added? Would you say "hey something is different"? The convertible rockers would probably do the most but are very difficult to install- the front suspension has to come off and the front of the torque box removed, a hole cut and the rocker passed through it into the car. Then everything is welded-up. Its a major addition. Like I said before I think I'll add the Spin Tech SFCs, but just because they provide a good lift point for my two post lift. If they stiffen the car up then they have an added benefit.

Heidts and TCP are just different versions of long torsion bars as far as I'm concerned. They can't hurt but I don't see them doing much. I would look at the reinforcing kit as insurance to keep the shock towers healthy.

That does sound like a good way to add rigidity. Just curious, do convertibles take different carpet kits because of these inner rockers? What other stuff is needed?

Do those go inside the car?

Make it disappear- maybe cover it with a patch of carpet held on with Velcro and I think you have a winner. Have a upholstery shop trim the edges of the carpet.

It IS the only test results I've seen, and it may be a backyard test, but the design of experiment appears valid, and he moved the jack points to further refine the test with input from forum engineers. Given the conditions I think it was executed brilliantly and gives actual results on the rigidity of the unibody as changes are applied. You are one of the more technically savvy members of the forum and actually worked in the industry so I respect your opinion. You mentioned that you don't have them on your current Stang, but probably have lots of anecdotal information that they (SFCs) do something. They don't appear to do anything torsionally, but may strengthen the car as a beam. I'm just not sure how that would help. Any insight as to what they do to the feel of the car, since that appears to be all we have to go on?

WOW, thanks for the really-really excellent link RPM. There are real test results here in a very long thread running over 5 years. There is a summary in post #79. My guess about torsional effects are borne out by the testing: subframe connectors do zero to reduce front to rear torsion. An Export Brace will reduce torsion by a whopping 25%, a rear seat divider by 11%, a Monte Carlo bar also by zero. I'm going to look into the footprint of the Spin Tech SFC but only because it may provide a good rear jacking point for my short armed two post lift.

I'm not convinced that units like the Global West and Tinman are anything more than a long torsion bar. I'm sure they add some rigidity but I'm not sure if its really noticeable. How could it even be proven? Just connecting the rear subframe to the front subframe with a long flexible bar may not do very much. What exactly are they supposed to do? Do they stiffen the chassis when cornering and make it more predictable, and maybe help prevent the chassis from flexing when reving the engine? Given the structure, nothing would prevent all flex. Maybe one of our mechanical engineers could weigh in on this and straighten us out?? Maybe you have some first hand knowledge that it really does something that is tangible.

Stick with your basic Stang and improve it. Get the book: "Boss 302 Chassis Modification" from Muscle Parts Headquarters PO Box 5386 Milwaukee Junction Station Detroit, Michigan 48211 for $2.00. Do the Arning/Shelby 1" drop, its basically free and makes a huge difference. Get a Scott Drake straight Monte Carlo bar and their export brace The 69 Mach1 has front discs, use those or go to Wilwood. I hear lots of good things about Open Tracker UCA, LCA and roller perches, or Scott Drake makes an inexpensive perch and control arms if you're on a budget. Change to a 7/8 sway bar with urethane bushings. TCP makes killer Adjustable strut rods, and less expensive ones are available from Global West, Street or Track, Ron Morris, or Rosehill. Get a good set of shocks, most say Bilsteins are the best, or KYB numbers: KG4517 front and KG5517 rear. Send your steering gear and power steering stuff to Chocko Stang to be rebuilt- they get high praises from everyone. Rack and pinion is expensive and most say doesn't recenter well (that should start a controversy).

1-11/16

yep replace it, and as he says here its the evaporator, the condenser coil is in front of the radiator. You'd get a big surprise if you ordered a condenser.

They require stitch welding to the floor pan, so you need the carpet and padding removed or you could start a fire. They follow the contour of the floor pan and are 13 gauge (.090") thick- might be pretty good

Thanks Dave, I reread the Tinman website and found that the connectors are only 2" square tube, then I took the extra car out of the garage so I could get a good look from the side. Even though it is 3" closer to the pinchweld in the rear than the front, it should only stick down about as much as the muffler. It will be visible but like you said, not very noticeable. Has anyone tried Spin Tech connectors?

Yeah I've seen the video but it doesn't show the car on the ground. Since the existing subframe is about even with the bottom of the rocker panel, it seems to me that the Tinman connectors would be visible at the rear, just in front of the rear spring bracket where they weld on, and should stick down by the height of the connector- some 3 to 4". Is that correct?

Guys, doesn't Tinman weld on the bottom of the rear subframe in front of the rear spring hangers? Aren't they somewhat visible at the rear or not?

MikeStang- any chance we could see your idle video's? I left you a message, thanks

Mike I'd like to see your idle videos, also do you have power brakes, and if not do you know your idle vacuum? Thanks

Very nice, you've been busy. Do you still intend to go with EFI?

get this book: https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjjuuqPoqTSAhWLVg0KHf6YC6sYABAHGgJxYg&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESIeD2cOkIEk6rxYlNlq9xFdiMx1BKBr2hYJ1fr5J-XXli0Q&sig=AOD64_2imPiTus5GeUQmZiRuJPBOLd6BGw&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwj70eOPoqTSAhWCQCYKHcXHDjoQwg8IHQ&adurl=

We'll haunt you until you tell us your technique to get wires through the firewall

Come on, you can't put that out there without giving us the rest. We will haunt you until you tell us.