69gmachine

Well I can't wait to see your artistic masterpiece LOL!

I've noticed a lot of really old threads have been resurected lately. Anyway, I only bother to check mileage when I'm on a long trip on the open highway and I cross reference with mileage from a map and actual gas to fill the tank. I know it drops like a rock in town with my 408. Since I put the car together from scratch, I used the same speedo gear (red 21 tooth) for the rear end gear (3:70) and tire size (25.5 measured dia P275/40 17) that Fox Mustangs used. When i did the math on it, it says I need 20.984 teeth to read correctly... pretty darn close. When I was driving past a speed warning sign that reads out your speed on a giant digital sign, it was tracking exactly what my speedometer said in a 25 mph speed zone.

A pic without me in it is probably better for photoshopping:

I can only assume you have never tried an Autolite 4100 or even a Holley with annular primaries. They do provide the best of both worlds. The front barrels on the 4100 are smaller than a typical 2 bbl, so as long as you stay out of them, you can get excellent gas mileage and throttle response. When you do choose to step on the gas, the power is there, especially for a small to mid size engine. Then you need to add an OD trans, which is critical to MPG success. You end up with a final drive that's lower than the tallest gears available (2.89 or so). If you have 3.50 rear gears and a .64 OD, your final drive is only 2.24. The seat of the pants feel of leaving 1st with 3:50s is much better than grandmas 2:89 gears so it's a lot more fun to drive all around (best of both worlds). Even with 3:70s like I have, the final drive is still only 2.37. You can cruise at 60 mph at something like 2K. The last major piece of the puzzle is a good electronic ignition. An inductive ignition is better for mileage and low RPM power than a CD. I'm not putting "IMO" because I can demonstrate it, and have for years. The OEMS have never used a CD ignition. When they needed to operate at higher RPMs, they added coils rather than go to a CD ignition. The only reason race cars like NASCAR use(d) them is because the rules artificially restrict(ed) them from using multiple coils. NASCAR is finally entering the electronic engine control age, so they may use coil on plug now, I don't know. Last, get rid of unneccesary weight. If you insist on a rolling museum piece with heavy factory style steel wheels, heavy factory iron everything, yep it's pretty hard to get decent mileage. It takes more power to get it rolling everytime you stop with all that mass. 23mpg can be done if you're willing.

A friend of mine sent me these last night: Me and my mach 1 in the starting grid Heading to the starting line At the starting line.

Congratulations red, and I hope that's just the start of many fun drives. I drove mine into work yesterday and a school bus drove like a madman to catch up to me. He pulled up beside me at a redlight and asked if it was a '71. Driving these cars is a blast.

Hmm, I guess I should try to repair my original. It has 2 broken studs and is crackerd all the way through in the back. Maybe some JB weld can repair it. I don't much like the looks of that repop.

Either the fan itself, the fan clutch or the combination of the two was out of balance. It only happened with sustained high RPMs. I drove literally thousands of miles with no problem on the street. I just wasn't making the connection of the loose bolts being caused by vibration.

Disc brakes use more volume of fluid than drums, and even on a 4 wheel disc car, the front brakes use larger diameter pistons.

Ditching the fan clutch solved the water pump vibration problem. I was able to get all 4 runs in today. No DNFs, all 4 runs counted. The first run was 56.2, the 2nd run dropped to 54.5, the 3rd run was my best time of the day at 52.9. I tried too hard on the last run and my time was 54.7. I finished 11th in my class of around 25. Considering this was really my first full day racing, I'm ecstatic with my improvement. For context, the fastest TOD was around 42.9 in a turbocharged Lotus with a very experienced driver. I consider anything below 50 to be "fast". The fastest time for a Mustang was 46.5, although it was a late model (08?) 5.0 with Hoosier racing slicks. I made some new friends (all the Mustang guys tend to hang out together) and met up with an old friend I haven't seen in a while. A perfect day to end the season. I'll be much better prepared for next year. Now my car will go back to DD duty until the snow comes.

If you're willing to make some upgrades to the '60s technology, you can make that '69 practical for a lot more than just occasional cruises. If I was content to just use mine as a DD, it would spend a lot more time on the road than it has the past year. Attempting to race it has uncovered the weak spots, but I'm hopefull that I finally have that resolved. My car isn't pretty to look at like many of the cars in the build threads here, but i'm not willing to put it down long enough to do a show build. At the moment I can hop in any time and drive pretty much anywhere I want. When I get back from NC I will drive up there to visit you and let you get behind the wheel and let you step on the gas. That should cheer you up:thumbup1:

Thanks for posting the link. I really enjoyed the 2nd episode. They shouldn't have billed it as a Windsor vs Cleveland comparison, more like different cleveland builds. I think they made it clear that the package for a 4V wasn't optimized for power or torque, but at least you could see what a single component change would do. I don't think the 2v package was optimized either, they should have used a dual plane intake. A better comparison would have been to use a stroker crank in the Cleveland also. It would be fair to use a slightly shorter throw since it's not practical to package a 4" stroke in a cleveland, but a 3.85 would have been close enough.

Jay, I think you should just stay home and get well. With no firm commitment from anyone, I'm not willing to drive 4 hours each way. My daughter has a softball game in the morning and some friends have invited me to a football/birthday party in the evening, so I have plenty of other things to do Sunday. I also have another trip planned for the end of the month driving down to Wilmington NC for the Marine Corps Ball. My son asked me to drive the Mach 1 down, so I'll get a nice cross country trip out of it. There's always next year:tongue:

Sorry to hear that Jay, hope you recover soon. Is anyone else still planning to go?

Yes that would work fine. You could piece it together yourself for much less $, but the time saved by using a bolt in kit may make it worth the investment. This is to resolve the headlight flickering only. If your engine is dying you either have 2 different problems or a more severe electrical problem than just a headlight switch. I would still use relays when using halogen bulbs regardless. It makes the current draw through the thin wires of the factory harness much less.

I think the head light switch is the most likely culprit. They don't handle the extra curretn draw of halogens real well. You may want to consider adding relays.

Yes, the '95 R model Mustang came with the 351 and a lot of unique parts as you can imagine... very rare. But any 89-93 5.0 starter would have worked as long as you have the late style flywheel. I'm not sure exactly what year the smaller permanent magnet high torque starter was first used, could have been as early as '87. The manual flywheel changed when they changed the imbalance on the 5.0 around '81 or '82. Prior to that the placement of the ring gear on the flywheel was closer to the engine block than it was on the automatic flex plate which required a specific manual starter.

Droping the upper arm will decrease the amount of travel before the ball joint stud hits the housing, but in most real world situations there's still enough travel not to be a problem with a 1" drop. If you drop it more than an inch, then you need to correct the angle of the ball joint to restore some of the lost travel or you could snap the stud right out of the housing if it hits hard enough.

Both the 302 and 351 used the bigger radiator if it came with AC.

I don't think most sanctioning bodies are going to allow that much flexible line even if it's steel braided, but I'm no drag race expert. Everything I've read says they want hard line as much as possible. Aluminum is cheap and easy to bend, so that's what I used. Something to look into anyway. I saw you bought 275 18s, but I couldn't tell if that was for the front or back. I have a GM J-car rack and use 275 17s up front when I autocross. When my PS went out momentarily because water sprayed all over the belt, I almost couldn't turn the wheel at slow speeds. The TCP rack may be easier to turn.

At the bottom of the page is a picture of the food court (front) and bleachers (back). http://www.carlisleevents.com/about/ They hand out maps at the entrances. The fair grounds covers 82 acres. In years past the fall show covered every square inch. I haven't been in years, and the Ford show has been way down since '07 when the economy collapsed, so I don't know how big it will be this year.

OK, we're getting close enough to firm up the plans. Since I have a 4 hour drive, I was thinking about leaving around 6:00 AM to get there at approx 10:00. We need to allow a little time for everyone to gather up, so how about 10:30 at the bleachers behind the food court? Is that enough time for you Cavboy? You may want to come down the night before since you have such a long drive. We can walk around the swap meet for a while and then cruise to a restaurant for an early dinner say around 5:00/5:30? that would allow me to get back home around 10:30/11 ish. I'm open to suggestions for where to eat and times.

With the short duration cam I bet it's all in by 5500, but for the dyno session I'd want to know for sure. It can't hurt to bump it up to 6K. I have the 205s with a relatively mild XE282 roller cam (232/240 @ .050) and it pulls like stink. The 185s may have made a tad more mid range power, but I already have more torque than my tires can take so there's no need. I have an even smaller cam I'm considering putting back in for autocrossing as spinning the tires is just wasting time.

If the starter solenoid is sticking (micro welding), then you likely have excessive current draw to the starter from either a bad starter, or bad cables so check those also.

This isn't a problem with the Windsor, they are all 28 Oz offset. On the 5.0 liters, when they went to the serpentine set up, the offset on the balancer increased, and probably did on the Windsor also. If you take the roller block you will need to make sure the balancer they installed is for V belts or serpentine. Short nose for v-belts, long nose for serpentine. There is only about a 1/4" difference, so ask the shop.