barnett468

. yes, you can cut the corners, heat them with a hair dryer and fold them under and glue them or simply cut the excess off along the edge of the molded part but your molded edge looks buggered . . i cut chicken wire then painted it black and placed it under the dash in that are so it looks finished plus it keeps things out of the heater box. .

really need more info like cam spec, gear ratio and desired perf type etc. you can but 1.6 or 1.65 or 1.7 rocker arms . . non roller rockers are fine for low revving engines like 5800 rpm etc. heres something that I do on every performance build . . it’s a bit of a pita, especially on an engine with pedestal mount rocker arms but it insures you are getting all the information from your cam . . incorrect rocker arm geometry can cost hp . . the goal is to have the rocker make the narrowest pattern on the top of the valve irregardless of where the pattern is. These is a short cut technique that doesn’t always tield perfect results bit it gets them close at the very least. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5is9BsH5OU this is the best technique. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjaosX63DkM

. cougar parts sells just the T bracket for $40.00 http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9ze-10a336-a.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Ford-Mustang-Mach1-Shelby-GT-Cougar-Torino-Bronco-351W-Alternator-Brackets-/391026322304#ht_42wt_1175

its all good and well to make a part that doesn't fit and let the potential buyer know that it will be corrected for free, however, its totally bogus to make a part that does not fit then charge the customer for shipping both ways . . make the f'n thing right or pay all the costs . . its not like its for a one off ferrari race car and he has to guess at the dimrnsions, he has made these for this app before. if a connecting rod fails due to mfgs defects and it takes out my entire engine, they better be buying me a new engine instead of just giving me a new rod.

well that was a good answer, lol. what thickness are the tubes? what thickness is the flange? what size are the tubes? are they stepped or single size tube? .

. i would run a powerglide.

no, no real mistake . . my comment was just for informational purposes only . . imo, your post were xlnt and in fact, i could be WRONG . . but i have never seen double or tripple springs with them which is what i should have said instead. yes, inner springs are often very close to the outers and do occasionally make contact . . some have more clearance than others but the purpose of the bottom inner spring cup is to reduce or eliminate the contact . . meaning, yes the outer spring is kept in place by the pouter one but it is nit the best solution . . i have seen set ups like his go many miles with the springs occasionally touching but the right or overkill way to do it is to use the cups and they are cheap so if it was me, i would install them just for that inexpensive added bit of insurance but no . . he does not absolutely. positively "need" them. ford uses single springs and the 271 hi po actually traps the spring on the outside but thats the only one i can think of . . double springs should have the outer spring trapped on the od and the inner spring trapped on the id . this is proper, standard procedure. lol, you know what . . as you suggested, the spring cup does look bigger than the od of the outer spring so this should definitely be checked.

. of course you have negative camber but that nothing to do with it . . just install a 5/16" spacer.

well i have several mustangs . . some have a clutch . . some don't

ok yeah what he said... there are no flat springs on double springs though but thats ok. measure the od of that seal and the id of the inner spring . . post the info. there is supposed to be an inner cup that holds the inner spring in place . . the clowns that assembled your heads did not put them on because...well...they are clowns . . unfortunately, i see this type of incompetent work all the time. buy the retainers for the inner spring even though the teflon seals will fit . . the spring retaining lip comes in different thicknesses. the teflon seals need to be beat on . . put a little grease on them first . . if they go on with just lite finger pressure, you have a problem. http://www.cvproducts.com/ProdDet.aspx?PN=XSS-3365

. this is not what you originally asked . . as mentioned, if you eliminate the leafs and run coil overs they will shred your upper shock mounts without serious reinforcement.

. Unfortunately, you can not get the car hot enough to give you a reading at, at least 200 degrees and preferable 220 – 230 degrees and since the higher readings are the most important this test isn’t as helpful as testing the sender in a pan of salt water, especially if the sender is aftermarket.

. the number 2 seal has a wide band in the bottom i can't see yours well enough but it does look like them . . your guide has grooves in the top to hold the seal so i don't know why they came off unless the seals are too big or the guides are a bit small on the od . . it would be helpful if you could measure the guide od. they should require a slight bit of force to install . . if they go on really easy they are too loose.

are the rears drums? if they are drums they are possubky adjusted too tight or the shoes sare installed incorrectly . . the shorter one ir the one with the beveled edge on top goes in front. i would check the clearance between the master rod and the master cylinder . . the clearance is around .015 - .040 with the smaller clearance being better. the fluid may not be returning either for some reason.

. ok, well you obviously need a different type of seal . . it would be helpful to know what you currently have but seal number 3 fixes problems like that . . the teflon has no drag on the stem so the stem can not pull it up plus it is flexible on top allowing it to move with the valve . . seal 2 would be my second or possibly equivalent choice..

ok, i'll be around or i will be happy to post the info here . . doesn't matter to me. as far as the ir gun goes, i have seen some of the less expensive ones be off by up to 20 degrees, so it you are uncertain of its accuracy, i would check it against something else to verify..

. there is no such thing as a $35.00 nos sender anymore . . good luck with that.

no, no, no . . i will tell you EXACTLY how tp do this if you want to but you nreed to boil your sender in a pan of salt water . . you need a candy thermometer and an ohm meter.

no such thing as an inexpensive adjustable coil over

ok, you are in sender hell. you must find a used orig if you want orig . . there are no new 69 and later ones avail . . the 66 one is fairly close. i can tell you how to make most senders work if you want. you will have to add a 30 cent resistor to it, but you also need to boil your sender and find out what ohm it has at around 220 - 240 degrees . . this is easy to do.

buy red alto clutches and get the wide red alto band and the good metal discs.

i would not run a tru 425 - 450 hp 408 stroker with 3.25 gears unless you run around a 3000 rpm stall converter or simply don't care how slow it will be off the line . . i would run 3.50 and if i had overdrive i would run 3.70.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-wiring-harness-retainer-kit-1965-1966/p/HW918/

that's impossible to do . . you need to buy a dual plane intake if you want one

. You need 1 3/4 tubes for up to around 5800 rpm and probably 1 7/8 for more rpm, especially if you run at higher rpm a lot . . the step headers are an inbetween option. The flanges should be 3/8, most are 5/16 which is the bare minimum you need. 18 gauge headers are c__p, 16 or 14 gauge is best but hard to find for your app. i would run remflex gaskets or soft aluminum ones. 5/16 flange, 1 3/4, 18 gauge http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-6208hkr/overview/year/1970/make/ford/model/mustang 5/16 flange, 1 3/4 - 1 7/8 step headers, 18 gauge http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-85008/overview/year/1970/make/ford/model/mustang 1 3/4, 16 gauge, 3/8 flange, mid length http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-d669y-r/overview/year/1970/make/ford/model/mustang 5/16 flange, 1 3/4, 18 gauge, slip fit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-85007-6/overview/year/1970/make/ford/model/mustang number 6. 1 3/4, 16 gauge, 3/8 flange http://www.fordpowertrain.com/fpaindex/Mustang1.htm https://www.accufabracing.com/mustang-exhaust