Raven R code

Correct.....scoop and trim ring should be a sort of semi-black and hood should be flat or close to it.

Getting down to the wire in the quest for correct engine bay paint. Still looking for something close in color/sheen to kryln 1613. Trying to stay away from lacquer. I do have a quart of ditzler 9423 as a backup. I have about a week or so before engine bay gets painted.

I recently called and heard the same thing! Now as for stripes, I heard NPD carries some nice ones. So....car is done with paint! 3 coats of black and 5 coats of clear. Sanded between 2nd and 3rd coats of clear and then sanded again between 3rd and 4th coat....5th coat apples right away over the 4th. Once engine is in and running, we will put front clip on and cut and buff to 3200 grit. Glass should be in this week.

Casey,...that is so bad ass! That came out really nice! I can't believe it's back together already

How are those stick on letters? My body guy says we have to be careful putting the studded ones on as to not dent the area when pushing them on.

Trim ring should be same color as the scoop.

FE= Ford Edsel.....352,360,390,428 and 427 FT= Ford Truck.....429/ 460 My engine guy loves FE motors but says FT is the way to go if not going for originality.

Very nice mod! Looks like it belongs for sure!

It would be easier to just modify what I have. $1 piece of metal....bend the edges...drill the holes and spot weld. Easy peezy.

Curious....what were the original color of shocks from the factory? Orange in front and black in back?

Has anyone ever put a baffle in the oil pan? I was thinking of putting a baffle from left to right just before it starts to scope up towards the back. Then I was thinking that there should be a handful of small holes to let the oil run through on the way down from the rearward slope of the pan. My thought on this is that small holes would allow the returning oil to flow back through to the pickup while the baffle keeps most of the oil in the front when launching the car. Keep in mind you would only need to make the baffle about 2" high (making sure to clear the windage tray). My pan has nothing and it seems like a good idea. Thoughts?

For your intermission enjoyment..... https://youtu.be/kjxSCAalsBE

+1 on ease of install. Do it yourself for sure. On the back glass.....I'm thinking of adding a bead of sealer to both sides of the gasket. I'm tired of my rear window "weeping" when I wash it.

I just did mine last year....I think the knob unscrews. I'll see if I have notes confirming that.

Getting the complete rebuild kit. Dead nuts on.

Water pump came apart very easily. Getting hot dipped today! The crack on the inside is along the thread for the back cover plate.....should be fine. May look into getting it welded just in case.

Just don't use epoxy! One hot day and BAM!!.....window will explode into a million pieces.

It is my original pump for my motor. They are very simplistic but there is a sequence of events to follow. It's not really much different than doing a wheel bearing.

Good info! I'll be going down this path very soon. First question I have is what glue to use?

I'm planning on getting the 428 water pump rebuild kit from dead nuts. Does anyone know how these Bearings come apart? Also, after taking off the back cover, I noticed there is a hairline crack in one of the bolt holes. Should I be worried? My feeling is if I RTV the back cover, it should seal up fine.

I got this stuff for the intake gaskets(to replace the front and rear cork) . I also plan on putting a thin coat on both sides of the gaskets the mate with the heads.

Lol! Did the same when I was 21!.........these days.....the more help, the better. ;)

My engine builder told me to toss the cork. I checked another 428cj and a 390 and they didn't use the cork either. The 390 guy said his builder said the same thing.

I have been updated on the front and rear intake gaskets. Was told not to use the cork pieces and use RTV instead. Does anyone have a recommendation for RTV on such a wide gap? Thanks!

I did roll rods on flat surface to check. But the dot is about an in down from one end on the pushrods. Also, engine is at body shop facility but not in the actual area where bodywork is done. Plus I always have it covered with plastic.