Brian Conway

A couple of hard to get shots of the set up on my car.  I don't know what the after market is suppling but mine is OE.  Brian

Mine measure the same.  Brian

The rear shock is the same for Street or Sport full number is RCD-55-RO56. Fronts are Street RCD-55-RO57 and Sport is RCD-55-RO83-1. From some notes I made awhile back and should be verified. Brian

Not a tech expert on suspension or shocks but on my stock set up with the Shelby 1" drop, actually 3/4", 428 motor and manual steering; STREET would be my pick. Brian

I would get them magged before storage. Let the shop cook them, measure, check threaded bolt holes and verify what they will clean up at and cover them with cosmoline. Probably less than a hundred each. Just me. Brian

Get another starter solenoid. Brian

Whatever color  number is on the door tag would be my choise.  Factory original Pastel Grey with GT stripe's will look great.  What color is the interior ?Brian

Instead of trying to figure out the market for a non running, needs work, M code 69.  Maybe try to figure out what it would be woth to you to have it gone ?  You know it needs ' work ' and you also know it's going to be thousands of dollars and many man hours of your time or worse yet a shops time  My best guess, brutal, 8K.  and maybe someone will step up that's willing to spent another 15k + to have a running 69 fastback.  Brian

and if it is a 428... the ' A ' indicates Atlanta assembly plant.  No CJ's assembled there.  Could be a ' Police Interceptor ' 428 motor ?

Any help ?

Doing a little research on the 69 rim blow switch and need some input.  Would like to get some length measurements to compare against OE and aftermarket.  Already have tried two of the Carpenter, white box, switch's and they both had electrical problems. I didn't think to measure them  Darn.  Recently tried a ' Kapalini ' switch and it was an easy install looked and worked great.  One problem at 44 & 3/4"  it is to long.  Being to long it would not fit into the steering wheel without the ends over lapping.  Another smaller issue is the leads are 1" longer than they need to be.   Sending the ' Kapalini ' back.  I would like some help in  double checking my dimensions.  So... any of you guys that have any of these around check the measurements against mine ?   My OE assembly line rim blow measures 43 & 3/4 ' long and the leads measure 8".   In the pictures the Kapalini is on top and the OE on the bottom.  Thanks  Brian

Couple of pictures that may help out.  Brian

So it's like sitting in a hole in the drivers seat and just recently took to sitting on a beach towel.  Time for seat foams and upholstery in the front only.  TMI seems to get the nod from most of you guys.  I have used a local shop to do the actual install and that usually runs about $175.  At least that was the last time, my daughter's 66 car, and I supply the seats, foam and upholstery.  Takes a couple days and I pick up the seats and stick them back into the car.  The stuff for the 69 Mach 1, high back w/red stripe, looks like $626.  So about $800 to get a couple of front seats done.   Sound about right ?  Thanks,  Brian 

The pedal on my car with stainless trim, molded bracket for the pivot, spring and a special screw/bolt for attachment.  Brian

black  w/logo in front and cars on the back.  Brian

Good Morning Bill.  East Coast weather is all the news out here.  Carb problems are for the most part a matter of knowing which screw to turn.  I doubt JBA would have sent the car out with a carb. issue so...  you say rich ?  choke plate not opening ?  Hard to start.... flooded ?  Did it ever run correctly ?  How much fooling around have you done ?  Any recent corrections or mods ?  Usually when I'am in up to my eye brows I go to my high school buddy, spent his whole working career as an auto mechanic,  and he unravels the mess I got myself into.  If your not the ace carb. tech and you don't have an ace in the whole maybe your first idea is not so bad ?  Call or email the HolleyTech Line tell your story and see what they have to say ?  Brian

That shield over the blower motor was for protection when installing the assembly line motor.  Mostly found on the FE 390 and 428 motors.  Should have been removed by the dealership but often times was not.  Brian

Jeff brings up a good point.  The retailers in the name of efficiency seem to be going the generic route as in one size fits all   When i got the, M1929, MC from NAPA I think it was a $5.00 core charge.  I just kept my original and compared the two before leaving the store.  I got my replacement Bendix 6954 booster replacement on line, no core charge, and still have the original FORD Midland service replacement.  They live together in the garage.  They don't eat much and don't fight.  
     Mach 1;  I did not notice any size difference, front to back, between the two boosters.  Maybe 1/4 " clear after install at the shock tower and MC for both models.  Did not loosen the booster but did install the MC with an approach that was at an angle.  Tight but went together just fine.  I suggest you try to get a correct MC.  You never know how many times you may have to re-visit this area.  Brian

Let me suggest that you don,t touch anything concerning the motor or carb.  Does your car have the bi-pass valve that omits your heater core/circut when the AC is turned on ?  Brian

Elongating the slotted holes on the hinges sounds sound like the All-American way to solve the problem.  See the problem make the fix and move on.  Brian

Just to get ahead of you a little bit;  If your tach isn't working it may be due to an electronic ignition poorly installed.  I recently had some trouble with a Pertronix 1 (1281).  Ran it for about 6 years and one day just quit working and it took me a bit to figure that out.  I have gone back to points, Motorcraft gaped at 20, and am fine with that.  Depending on the configuration of your hands and in particular your fingers may determine how you do your tune-up.  My hands dictate that I remove the valve covers.  It just makes it easier to get the plugs threaded and boots back on correctly/securely.  Besides with the VC's off you can check the head part numbers, dates and get a look what all is in there.  I run about 13 degrees BTC of timing and Motorcraft/Autolite 45's gaped at 35.  Brian

Even new these cars weren't build to handle 500 hp.  The 428 CJ's with North of 300 hp, probably around 400 hp, got the extra shock tower wraps.  FWIW Brian 

Well I am a bit of a original equipment kind a guy but the car is for driving after all.  Tim did get back to me, a matter of minutes, and simply said to put a new roll pin in.  Did say 90% of that type of failure is due to the oil pump.  Some sort od debries in the pump.  So I am going to drop the pan and pump and take a look.  Brian

Driving down the freeway yesterday doing about 75 and all of a sudden no throttle response.  Gave the pedal a little pump, no response, might have been a pop from the carb, checked the gauges, oil, temp, and voltage are all good.  By this time the motor is turned off, I am in neutral , coasting and looking for a place to pull over.  Get off the freeway, park, try a restart and another back fire, continues to crank and no sign of starting.  Called AAA, got the rig home, in the carport, shaker off and the hood open.  From the drivers seat I can see the carb. and give the pedal a pump, turn the key and backfire through the carb.  So while still not sure what's up I take the dist. cap off, hand turn the crank to TDC (actually 10 degrees BTC) and note the rotor location.  Rotor is pointed at #7 cyl.( 5 o'clock).  Rotate another 360 degrees and it comes up #4 cyl. ( 11 o'clock).  The correct rotor position should be at #1 cyl. and 1 o'clock.  Timing is off and the dist. hold down is tight so it isn't jiggleing around.. Took one valve cover off and again hand turned the crank to check the valve train/cam.  Checked out OK every position is going up and down.   Pretty much a stock FE configuration without unusual  mods and the most recent work was a new starter motor..  Before going any further I like to hear some thoughts on what I have uncovered so far ?  Thanks, Brian

Driving down the freeway yesterday doing about 75 and all of a sudden no throttle response.  Gave the pedal a little pump, no response, might have been a pop from the carb, checked the gauges, oil, temp, and voltage are all good.  By this time the motor is turned off, I am in neutral , coasting and looking for a place to pull over.  Get off the freeway, park, try a restart and another back fire, continues to crank and no sign of starting.  Called AAA, got the rig home, in the carport, shaker off and the hood open.  From the drivers seat I can see the carb. and give the pedal a pump, turn the key and backfire through the carb.  So while still not sure what's up I take the dist. cap off, hand turn the crank to TDC (actually 10 degrees BTC) and note the rotor location.  Rotor is pointed at #7 cyl.( 5 o'clock).  Rotate another 360 degrees and it comes up #4 cyl. ( 11 o'clock).  The correct rotor position should be at #1 cyl. and 1 o'clock.  Timing is off and the dist. hold down is tight so it isn't jiggleing around.. Took one valve cover off and again hand turned the crank to check the valve train/cam.  Checked out OK every position is going up and down.   Pretty much a stock FE configuration without unusual  mods and the most recent work was a new starter motor..  Before going any further I like to hear some thoughts on what I have uncovered so far ?  Thanks, Brian