det0326

Sounds like Fordracing nailed it. I was afraid that the module maybe bad as mentioned in one of my earlier post because at one point I think you said you had both wires on the same terminal on the coil, I not sure what it might have done but some times solid states are not to forgiving. Are you sure the coil is good because in doing your testing and changing wires around I guess it could be possible that the primary windings in the coil could have burned out, I would sure check it before dishing out $$$$ for a module. Dave

Thanks latoracing this is what I was trying to remember in my post above but for the life of me I could not. I have the original buckets that has some cracks and was thinking of trying to repair them but went ahead and purchased the repo's glad that I did now because the old ones didn't fit the repo fenders to well but the crappy repo buckets fit the crappy repo fenders pretty good. Dave

Yes I think it is, my repo's came with the gray paint and I never scraped any off to see but I think it is much like the original. Magnet will not stick so that is pretty much a dead give away if its not aluminum but I don't think so because its to heavy. Dave

I purchased a set of front fender extensions/headlight buckets from Kentucky Mustang which were Dynacorn I think. They fit the repo fenders OK but they may not fit the originals as well I don't know. I'm not sure if the buckets can be tig welded or not I have not heard of anybody doing it. I have heard of some doing some kind of soldering process much like body leading. From what I understand about the material that the buckets are made out of has a very low melting point but is just a little above the melting point of lead so you have to be very careful or you will melt the bucket. I think the material is pewter/pot metal or something on that line. Dave

Yes it will read 12V with no load on it, resistance will not change the voltage it limits the current which in turn will lower the voltage when there is a load on the circuit.

After looking at the diagram that Fordracing posted (very good info.) I understand more about this dizzy. Thunderscrash you probably already realize this too, but just my .02. The red wire that connects to the + side of dizzy is just the 12 volt supply to the dizzy module to operate the solid states. So if you have not changed out the stock resistor wire you will have to do this if you stay with this dizzy because it needs a full 12 volt supply and the stock resistor wire will not supply enough current. Dave

If you have 12 volts to the coil your problem would have to be from the coil to the dizzy or a problem with the dizzy module. Don't assume either that just because the coil is new that there is not a problem with it. Change it out if possible to eliminate it. My money would be on the distributor module though. Dave

Checked out your albums, that's one nice mustang. Really like that color is it a maroon ? Just wondering because I am leaning toward this shade for mine but I could only hope that mine turns out this good. Dave

Some after market hinges may be OK I don't know but from my own experience with left and right sets from Kentucky Mustang I had to return one set and probably should have returned both sets. I was not pleased at all, had my time to go over again I would have rebuild mine may do it yet.

Another thing about the cowl, the only way I have seen it for sale is an assembly. Upper and lower spot welded together. The area where the lower cowl is welded to the inner kick panel has no access to weld it unless you separate the upper part from the lower part and weld the lower in first then weld the upper to the lower. I have seen some use panel bond on this seam, how you want to do it would be up to you, just a heads up on it . Dave

Forgot to mention that I did replace the cowl assy. and firewall on mine . The cowl is not that big of a deal if your not replacing the firewall. IMO I think I would replace the A pillars one at a time before removing the cowl I would think that you would have a better shot at getting the pillars back in the same location. Just my .02 worth. PS I did check on Kentucky Mustang site and they do have the A pillars as probably a lot of Mustang dealers. Kind of pricy though.

First of all welcome to the forum you will find there are a lot of guys and gals on here with a lot of talent. I personally have not replaced the A pillars but had to replace the B pillars on my sportsroof. They were bad enough I can see your concern about removing the A pillars. I'm sure there are some that will offer you a lot of help though. I'm not sure but I think someone does make the A pillars seems like I have seen them before. Good luck with your build and take lots of measurements and go slow I'm sure you will do fine. Dave

Hi Derek Are you going to make it stock A/C or use an after market set up?

Do you think that you may have trash from the old tank/lines that may be in the line going to carb or maybe stoped up the needle and seat.

Why did you change tank and lines? Rust or were you have problem with it pumping fuel before changing the tank? Sure seems like a fuel pump problem now.

When pressurizing the tank did you see any leaks between the tank and fuel pump? Could the tank line at the fuel pump be sucking air? If you have an old fuel pump that is good connect it to the tank line at the fuel pump and pump by hand and see if it pumps any fuel. update: I might have misunderstood did you put a small amount of air at the tank filler or apply air at the pump going to the carb?

Thanks

Thanks Doug. So if I want to purchase 70 upholstery that I like, it would fit OK on my 69 highback seats or is the seat back latch holes already punched. Thanks Dave

I have been there with my hood also. The adjustment for that is actually the rotation of the hinge rather than the up and down movement. To lower the rear of the hood loosen the 6 bolts 3 on each side at the inner fender aprons and get someone to lift up at the front of the hood and hold it there while you tighten the bolts back up. If this doesn't solve the problem you may need new hinges. Dave

Just wondering if anybody could give any information on the design of the seats that Kevin posted? I noticed that Mustangs unlimited lists his as Deluxe for 69 in the std. seat and they list the same design in a high back for 70. This same design in 69 doesn't seem to be available so my question, is the 69 and 70 high back the same seat? I have read somewhere I think that the 70 may be a little thicker. Does anyone know if this is true or not? This can be found in there catalog pages 6 and 7. thanks for any help Dave PS didn't mean to hijack your thread Kevin just thought this would be a good place to ask this question.

I did see in Mustangsunlimited catalog a set of bucket seats just like the ones you posted and they are calling them ruffino/comfortweave. So IMO the design on the upper cushions is the ruffino and the bottom cushions are the comfortweave . Maybe???? Other than that Kevin I have nothing. I have seen this same design in high back seats and wish I could find some because I would like to do mine in this design. BTW if you want to look up this in Mustangsunlimmited catalog it is page 6 under the 69 deluxe upholstery. ‘69 Deluxe/Grande Upholstery Dave

I don't have a clue Kevin but I am doing some research on it and if I find out anything I will let you know as I said I am trying to find out what the Clarion knit on my Marty report means too. The original seats which according to the Marty report says Clarion knit are long gone and I don't know what they look like. Where did you here about the Kiwi and other grains is this something that was on your Marty report? Dave PS I have seen this interior that you have in your car I don't know what it is but I really like the solid leather/vinyl on the seat backs that is really cool.

Have you tried putting a jumper from the + battery to + coil just long enough to see if it fires up? In putting this jumper on I would make sure that the original wires on the + coil terminal are disconnected so you don't feed voltage back to the ignition switch and solenoid just for safety reasons. This will tell you one of two things if it does fire up you probably have a wire, or switch problem if it does not then you would probably have a problem with the coil or distributor.

That's what I always thought too Mike. No this is a car that was up for sale and I just happen to run across as a matter of fact this is the second car that I've seen listed and described as having the clarion knit vinyl. As you said though if look in any Classic Mustang catalog the same exact seat upholstery it describes it as Corinthian, so I don't know. My Marty report says mine is the Clarion knit and I was just wondering what the difference is. Thanks Dave

This also says in the description of this car that it is clarion knit vinyl seats.