det0326

well Ed wasn't thinking of the inside. Mine did have a little rust on the inside I use stiff brush and diesel fuel. with the additives they put in diesel fuel now you will be amazed how good it cleans. If rust is really bad tho you may have to use some type of rust remover.

when I did mine I wire brushed it the best i could and used a primer made just for rust. I believe it was Mastercoat series . It is sand able and u can top coat it with most any kind of paint. worked really well for me.

My concern, since it was modified, did they get the spring perches back on in the correct position to provide the correct pinion angle. I know you can get tapered wedges to correct it but never was a fan of that.

good eye there Roger. I was thinking the same thing before any pics and the site crashed again but I went back to his first post and he stated that it was a 351W. After seeing that I never posted anything.

Sorry but i think you would be a world ahead to change the booster now with the correct one. The 69 as u know is offset making the pushrod pivot point different and the pushrod is not aligned straight. Not saying it won't work but it will soon wear the vacuum seal.

I pray u get well soon Terry

Wonderful news glad u got it figured out.

Yes Terry u are correct, there are more AI Bots on facebook than are humans I think.

Maybe Liya12 should visit VMF, seems to be some over there that has no useful information but just communicate with someone to run their post number up.

check this out and see if it maybe what u are looking for. If u scroll on down it has description of pulley with measurements. also if it is correct it is free shipping to Australia. https://www.ebay.com/itm/175689105087?epid=1379452513&hash=item28e7e2febf:g:WwIAAOSwB71kOV4W&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8OzJVZZ0WhTbezegq4Wdy5ObSXWDd%2Fcn9gd0xl%2FQXfkp2DTabnG%2BCdtGgROYSh2pSgw2jpZKwYYDMhuQP7uq7zzsA2ta8BWiSEuKCGG0Cl1Hz2rOmZ9dU7s9ubLpWCNYPyPTv2XgiO5wQplJ8kdWLnAgDuouvlW5bqH1SPzApbrJQKDVLLK6W%2Ff7MkQHLpsvLqTlpYm8cy2Bgu%2BNKsm%2B6mrFg6Bg509afNAMvrIG%2FVkKA%2B7teFTxcvWWr%2BFxwjaEO1pKf%2BTDeoPyRAT2jHpS%2F3gvmc%2Bjm1zyPemeRWM7J4eDVWx%2FaqUiZLIMsWeiySkifw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5rBrZSAYg

I installed mine with out engine and trans didn't change anything or cause a problem. I had installed torque box and had rails in good shape before installing sub connectors tho.

Terry, Why will it not work with the Borgeson? Length?

Man until one starts calculating what goes on in a drive train, its a wonder they stay together as well as they do.

Big mail how bad is this vibration, do you really feel it or is it something like you just hear? Could it be a muffler/exhaust drone.

Just can't believe that a converter would be causing vibration going down the road and not at engine riving in neutral but I guess stranger things have happened.

2 words Bob "bent pulley"

Bigmal If it wasn't for bad luck u would not have any luck. lol This is so disappointing I know. I know you have been over this a thousand times and you may have answered this before, I just missed it but I do have one more question about it. The drive line angles u say are 0 that they more or less canceling each other out. I think you said you were getting your transmission angle from front engine pulley while this should be fine the transmission yoke I feel would be more accurate. I would get all four wheels up on blocks doesn't have to be perfectly level and try to get the trans angle directly from the yoke, it should be pointed down toward ground by some degree and the front of the pinion yoke should be pointing up by some degree. I know that you know all this but if you decide to try this again please post these angles for us. Some people use a cell phone to find these angles my phone has throwed me a curve before. An inclinometer has always served me well.

I am in the market for another 69 mach 1 project and have been watching prices a good bit lately. I didn't see anything in the ad that said Mach 1 so I assume it is a sportsroof. Yes that is way to high I have seen sportsroofs in the last few weeks in this condition or better for around 12 or 13k. I bided on a 69 R code on ebay a couple of weeks ago a lot of body work already done and was in primer it needed paint and assemble and the interior restored. Had the 428 C block but not the heads (not original to the car but was a 69 date code that had been machined and all new parts just needed to be assembled. The 9 inch track lock was completely rebuilt and painted. I didn't see this ad on ebay until it had only a few hours left, I bided 25k on it and had the high bid for 24k. By it being on ebay and site unseen I got cold feet and pulled my bid the last few seconds to go. The reserve had been meet to, so it was mine and I chicken out. Turns out everything was legit, I'm still kicking myself.

I wouldn't run engine and trans with the drive shaft out because the transmission tail shaft would not have any support with the yoke out. May not hurt a thing but it really wouldn't tell you munch with the transmission tail shaft wobbling.

Can't comment on the electric power assist but I did put an integral power assist on mine similar to the Borgeson. I liked it.

Sorry to hear that Bigmal. when u found play there I just knew u had found your problem. I do feel your pain. When you mention tail shaft I assume you are talking about the drive shaft. Is the drive shaft the original or did u have a new one made? The reason I ask is I have heard that some older drive shafts had rubber internally that sometimes broke loose and caused a vibration. Never experienced it myself just heard of other people having a problem with it. The only thing that could of upset the vibration to make it worse by removing the drive shaft is it can be mounted back to the pinion yoke 180 degrees from where it is now. I don't think that's your problem tho.

My bad, I must have had my head up my rear that day. Could you not just grind a bit off the caliper where the rotor is rubbing or is it in a place where u can't. I would check the dia. of that rotor tho because if it is a little oversize that would be an easy fix.

What a deal I'll take two at that price.

Wondered why my laptop kelp wanting me to capitalize Clarence. Long story about that word, hahaha good catch Professor Bob

You say new rotor u mean new after upgrade or it is the upgraded one. Check the dia. of that rotor where it is rubbing, may be a little over size. If not u may have to Clearance the caliper where it is rubbing a bit. Calipers are a bit loose without any pressure applied.