shaun071

Shimming the uca will have an effect on the camber adjustment. It should be minimal though as you are only shimming the front bolt. From a personal standpoint I don't think the shelby drop is really necessary on a road car or cruiser. Don't get me wrong it is an improvement on the stock set up but unless you are throwing the car hard into corners all the time is it worth the hassle? I'm using Aussie Falcon spindles which are 3/8" taller than Mustang spindles which will give you half the effect of a shelby drop without drilling holes, which is part of the reason I won't be doing the mod either.

Some info from the Australian Mustangtech site on adjustable strut rods and alignment in general. http://www.mustangtech.com.au/Content/pid=10.html Info on Shelby drop with offsetting holes rearward http://www.mustangtech.com.au/Content/pid=4.html Hope this helps. Guys here in Oz are more into corner carving than drag racing so there's some good info on making a Mustang handle with modern radial tyres.

I'm not sure on the FMX driveshaft but on my AOD conversion (not on a Mustang) I just used the stock C4 driveshaft shortened by 1 inch and used the stock C4 yoke. If you have a C4 driveshaft just fitting the AOD yoke should do the trick.

Some of that play in the steering could be from the rag joint between the column and steering box. I bought a urethane joint but haven't fitted it yet. I have used a urethane joint on Aussie Falcons, which use the same set up as Mustangs and it took out all the play. All the steering components were new as well.

I need to replace mine as well. They are on ebay for about $30 from several vendors

On a similar question to the OP, I'm looking to build a 302 clever with Aussie 2V heads. Will 70 351C 2V headers work with minimal mods?

Hi Glenn, the BA seats are a pretty common fitment. I removed the factory tracks and electric tilt motors and made up some adaptors for the original Mustang tracks. I've test fitted them and they felt pretty comfortable. I'm on the Mustangtech forum here in Oz and there's some good info on fitting BA and AU seats. Some blokes use aftermarket tracks and 1/4" flat for the adaptors which lowers the seat just over an inch on my setup. The seat trim was from ebay user leatherupholstery and got it for $250 delivered. He has a buy it now price of $299 including delivery. It'll be a couple of months before I get to fitting it up but I'll post some pics of the finished seats. Nice to see another Aussie here:thumbup:

there are several classic Mustangs here in Australia running the 4.0 litre XR6 Falcon turbo engine. 350 hp stock!! Even the non turbo puts out 280hp.

They use a different pad part number DB1075. I'm not sure whether they would be available in the states. When ordering pads make sure they are to fit 1984-88 XF Falcon with Girlock callipers. XF's were also fitted with PBR callipers which are a steel calliper thats almost an exact copy of the Kelsey Hayes 69 Mustang calliper. These are the pads I bought http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXTREME-Front-Brake-Pad-Falcon-XB-XC-XD-XE-XF-GLK-/280640097797?pt=AU_Car_Pa When I get a chance I'll post up pics of the complete front brake set up with part numbers etc

I have 3 point retractible belts in the rear of my coupe. The retractor is fitted to the package tray with a 3"x2" 1/8" thick reinforcing plate under the package tray. The mounting points for stock lap belts are used for the other 2 mounts. There are also belts available that have the retractor mounted under the package tray so it looks just like a regular belt. I don't have any photo's of the install but here's a pic of the reinforcing plate I used

Always happy to help. They are a nice simple upgrade for those with disc spindles that want a stock look. Generally you can get the callipers from a wrecking yard for about $50 a pair and a seal kit and new piston is only around $30. Freight to the states might be a killer though.

Thats for a gallon. Currently we pay anywhere from a low of $1.45 to a high of $1.60 per litre for 91. 98 is around $1.70 per litre. I'm out in the country so my wife does a 50 mile round trip to work each day and I'm doing about 30 miles per day as well. Gets expensive just going to work let alone doing any "fun" driving!!!!!

You guys have it easy on gas prices!! Try $6.00 a gallon here in Australia!!:taz::taz:

There is a direct bolt on aluminium calliper made here in Australia by Girlock. They were fitted to Australian Falcons 1883-88 which use the same disc brake spindle. I am fitting a set to my 69 coupe. They are usually cheaper than these remanufactured ones on ebay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Falcon-XE-XF-Front-calipers-/141291901620?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item

More progress finally. I made a plate up to fix some rust under the battery tray Most of the progress has been in gathering parts to start on the suspension rebuild and power front disc brake conversion. I lucked onto some leather upholstery for the BA Falcon front seats on ebay

This is my halogen headlight upgrade: hi/lo is 60/55w and hi is 55w 6000k bulbs. The whole setup cost less than $100 off ebay. Very bright and good beam distance. You will need to modify the RH buckets to suit the mounting tabs on the lights

Good to hear!! I'll start saving now!!

I recently emailed NU-RELIC and got the same response. They did say you need to have the windows glued in properly with a urethane glue so I'll be getting the kit soon and will go with the console mount switches. I'm surprised no-one seems to make a kit to do the rear windows in a coupe/convertible though.

There is the possibility that if the boot is perished water has seeped in and there is surface rust inside the joint.

Getting closer to finished!! Well done, she's beautiful

I bought KYB gas-adjust shocks, they were about $35 each. I haven't fitted them yet but are a very common fitment here in Australia.

Another way around this problem is to use smaller wheel cylinders in the rear drums. Factory rear cylinders are 7/8", so use 13/16". This is a common swap here in Australia where we use readily available Aussie Falcon front disc set up (identical to stock 69-70 front brakes) with Falcon wheel cylinders (13/16) without the prop valve. I believe stock big block 69-70 Mustangs came with 13/16" rear wheel cylinders.

I've heard similar things about rack conversions, most don't seem to get the geometry right. Any pics or info about the Maier steering box set up would be interesting. I was leaning toward the Borgeson set up when I've got some more cash. Great progress you're making on the car!

PA Automatics also have a valve body that changes the shift pattern to 1-2-d-o/d-n-r-p. I can't say report on how it is as I haven't fitted it yet. Also remember long tube headers will not fit as the AOD pan is wider and longer than C4/Tpoloader. I had my driveshaft shortened, but I believe a stock driveshaft with an AOD will fit fine. The problem is the C4 yoke is approximately 1" longer than an AOD yoke.

I used a stock 164 tooth cleveland-c4 flex plate and a stock AOD convertor bolted straight up. ( Australian clevelands had C4 to FMX as the auto option)