Rip Rock

Ha! It's hard to make it fun without sacrificing drivability. That's my problem. It is tamed down from last year. After a ten min drive it was very hard for street ability. I think I nailed it now. Lol These mod motors like max timing at 18deg. So with that being said the boost is relative to the timing. The boost is at 20 lbs. Maxed out 91pump basically. The only next step to get more power is to build the motor. I could of pushed it more, but wanted reliability. All of the supporting mods are built for 1200-1500 wheel. I don't know if the old girl can handle that power without major chassis work. Very cool build you got there. I enjoy the turbo cars. I have herd good things about the Holley ecu's.

Engine bay. Built another top intake, looks identical, but thicker top. Added Rad covers and turbo shields/ covers Some better seats. The stock seats are a bad ride. These are way firmer and will actually hold me in (I hope) Got some new wheels (black bullitts). New rear tires (MT 305/35 18) and reused the front tires (had about 100km on then since bought). Blacked out the chrome for a different look. More aggressive feel to it. Lots are 50/50 on it. I don't mind it. Notice the mirrors. I like them better over stock myself, again not for everyone Will have to re book a dyno/ tune again.

Back from the dead once again. Did some minor updates Didn't like the big dead spot from the cowl hood, so had to switch up the intake to make more viewing area. Got a hold of a 2000 cobra r lower intake and made an upper hat for it. Went to a single 4" TB instead of the dual 3" tb's. Found a used hood for $75 with no cutouts on it. Perfect for what i was going to do. I really like the no hood latch and positive locking hood latches, so I took out the twist locks and ordered some aero hood latches. Had great success with them on the supra. Cobra R lower intake. Longer runners should put the curve to the left more Boss 429 hood scoop, It's needs some minor alteration Added some fiberglass and spaced it up for clearance primed and test fit Painted Also worked on the exhaust. Notice the Vibrant 4" oval for better ground clearance

Some require their own ps pump as well. They get pricy for sure. Tcp makes one as well, although a bit on the pricy side. Agreed we with 69volunteer. I wouldn't rebuild the oem, I have also did this with marginal gains. Although maybe I'm expecting more for less.

Did you re talk to the paint shop owner? I would ask him how he is going to take care of it. If this ever happened to me, I would take it to someone I trust or it would look like your picture above. Seems like the paint shops owner intentions we good tell he realized how much it would cost him. Go back on him, you got nothing to loose right now. Seems like you will be paying regardless the outcome. Shitty situation.

Personally it doesn't look correct to the rear. I would do 1 of the 3 things. Find another coil, cut the current ones down or get it over with and do ajustable coil overs.

Very nice roll bar set up and cover pieces. Does the stock headliner work with this?

Ouch! Have you looked into a dent removal person to take to try to get it out first before you let the body guys touch it?

Interesting topic. Let me know which one you went with and the fitment as well. This is something I should also do as well.

Sorry for the late reply. I don't have any pics currently. My buddy has my external hard drive.

I have always ran the very cheap oil, like napa 10-w30 (non synthetic ) with compcams zddp additive , run it and get the engine hot, shut it down and change the oil and filter. Put the same stuff in ( new oil and additive and filter ) and hit the dyno. Then after the dyno I change the oil again. Seems to work for me, but I would say depending on who built the engine, the type of cam, and engine tolerances for procedure and oil types.

I run tcp rear 4 link currently, and used to have the front coil over suspension, and the strut tower braces. I have switched to a rod and customs front. Tcp are quality parts imo, and easy to install, that bolt in and all are reversable mods. I had troubles with the exhaust as well with the 4 link. I had to do some fab work on the exhaust system and went under the axle with 2.5" pipe. I also made my own subframe conectors.

I noticed the exact same thing as well. Most of my buddies are not on forums anymore, only facebook groups and other social media sources.

Holy crap, that guy live way up in Grand Prairie! That's one big commitment. He's about 6.5hrs north west of were I live.

I'm going to the mustang shop today in Calgary. There pretty good, with fair prices. Most items are in stock for a classic mustang and up.

Sure. I'm way up in Alberta so you know. Did you do ss flex lines on this install as well?

I actually have an r&c front end, so I don't need them anymore. I had no idea that the 69 are very different from a 70 spindle. Very informative thread. May keep them now.

For me, I like to shut my fan off on the highway, because I don't need it, and sometimes after some spirited driving I like to leave my fan on with the engine off. I really depends on the cars set up for sure, to use electric or not.

I just saw this topic, and realized I have 70 drum spindles on my shelf. Those ssbc's look very nice, great choice.

I have had stock suspension (new) , a tcp front end with coil overs and shelby drop , and now a rod and customs front end. And honestly I can't tell any difference in driving with the tcp stuff or the r and c. The tcp stuff installed great with no problems, and the r & c is very easy to install as well, I would say a 4/10 for ease of installation. Good luck with your decision op.

I ended up using a ford taurus fan, single fan, because of my rad size. No regrets for 30$ From a local pic and pull. Before my taurus fan I ran a spal electric fan. It was the only thing that would cool my 351c. She used to run hot no matter what until I switched over to electric.

Looks very good! Edit, How come I see 0 warning points under my post, count and not on other peoples?

Holy crap!

Holy crap!

Back from the dead. Here is some updated pics. We moved the rad to infront on the fan now, and put the fan on the back side with better results. Made ducting and the trottle bodies have been upgraded to rmr. The heater core has been replaced as well.