coz

PICS....

Hi all, Been a long time since I've posted. Life and other interests got in the way for a while. But I decided it was time to get back into the 69 and Mustangs in general. I plan to move forward with a pro-tour build of my 69 Mach1 this fall and will be selling off parts that I won't need over the summer. 351C engine parts, headers, suspension, cal-tracs, wheels, front seats, white seat cover set, and other items.... I'll get some pics taken and post them. Just looking to move parts / not looking for top dollar or to ship stuff. I also realized it would be a year or more before I can get the 69 done and I have an itch to drive now... So I bought a new 2020 GT500 Shelby and a 4 post lift to double stack the two. I'll post pics of the 69, Shelby and lift. It turned out well and the Shelby is a BEAST! Fastest car I've owned and it's a real track car - not just a straight line car like most Mustangs. Really am enjoying it now that the weather has turned. Damn Cicadas make day time driving impossible though. Taking it to a local strip on 6/20 to see what it can do stock. Anyway, thought I'd say hey and hope to be more active soon.

Yeah - you need a pair (either closed or open) to work correctly. Most of the Aussie heads are either 2v or 3v even though CHI makes a nasty 4V. Your headers would not match up with the 2v/3v and even some of the 4v's have different porting. Let me know if you are interested in my heads. I have some 4V iron heads that flow 375cfm! I'd like to sell them complete. Click on my avatar below for pictures. Actually parting the 408C so if you need other parts let me know also.

Plain old Dino oil. I change my oil every 3-4 months so spending money on fancy oils is a waste. Changing $11 a can oil every couple of thousand miles (at best) is silly. Finding the right viscosity is much more important. Unless you run flat tappet or have need for the ZZDP additives - then there are several dino oils with that or you can find an additive.

Never had any ride issues with my Caltracs. They have preload on them and though a stiff ride they are not harsh. 4.5 mid eye leafs with KYB. Also have more arch in the springs then what you show. http://www.1969stang.com/g1/COZ-69Mach1/114_1420?full=1

Yep - 275/60/15's on 15x8 Magnums. 4.5 mid eye springs, KYB shocks. No issues.... Caltracs to keep them on the ground. Click on my profile below. Pages 7/8 for entertainment and 9/10 for tire clearance

Hey John - yep I'll be selling the Caltracs and the springs, etc... I'll let you know when they're off.

Hi Guys, I've started my tear down and have some parts that if you want to pick them up or arrange a local meeting place. I'll continue to update this as parts come available. I'll also start a $ parts page once I start tearing the engine, suspension and steering out. 1 - complete set of Mach1 carpet. Used but is good shape. Black with the 4 red inserts. 2 - stripped set of Mach 1 deluxe doors. White - decent shape. no hardware/inserts.

Good stuff here - I need to run an electric fuel pump since the new engine doesn't have a provision for a mechanical pump. Glad you brought this up FordGuy!

I'll be going up Friday. Here's another thread covering it. http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53219-ford-week-at-carlisle-anyone-going/ PM me if you want my cell phone number. We can meet at the show. I plan on visiting the Roush tent. Here's a list of vendors. I'm sure you all will be hanging out at the Bath Fitters tent (WTF?) http://www.carlisleevents.com/carlisle-events/carlisle-ford-nationals/carlisle-ford-nationals-vendors.aspx

Dale Schwartz Performance has done the 3" under the axle setup. http://www.schwartzperformance.com/1969-mustang-fastback/

You should give Leon a call. He's the guy who makes most of the fiberglass models and is very knowledgeable. And from what I've seen there is nothing wrong with the fiberglass models. Well made and look basically the same from the exterior. http://www.fordramair.com/ I'll be ditching my real shaker base later this year. I'll list it in the parts for sale section cheap. It's been "modified" some but it might make someone's day who needs to make some mods.

As an alternative look into Wilwood brakes. They are top quality and tend to be less expensive than Baer. Here are the brakes I will be running. 140-10219-DR http://wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront.aspx?itemno=140-10219-DR 140-9217-DR http://wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdRear.aspx?itemno=140-9217-DR All their specs are on the Wilwood site. If you are interested in them versus Baer let me know. I know a vendor that will sell them for about $300 less per axle than Summit and other online shops.

I had the same problem when I stroked my Cleveland. I was lucky that I could close the hood but the scoop was sitting too high. Mine looks like MichaelJames picture. Since I wasn't looking for originality I cut up the base a bit to get a better fit. Now that I'm going with a new engine and even taller intake I think I will have to bypass the shaker base altogether. I plan to mount the scoop to the hood so it looks like a shaker car from outside but inside I will run a "normal" air cleaner of some type. I was thinking about going all out and get an 8 stack injected setup but I doubt that the stack would fit into the shaker scoop. I do plan to mount the scoop to the hood with rubber mounts so there will still be some "shaking" at stop lights. Also plan to run the Ron Morris adjustable engine mounts to see if I can get some slack out of them.

Yep - nothing wrong with a mechanical fuel pump. I run the 110 gallon Holley and it works fine. There are some fancier pumps out there but the Holley seems fine. Plus don't have to dork with regulators / return lines https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_mechanical_pumps/parts/12-289-11