sportsroof69

Use link bars with a standard base circle, and that's all you need (no spider/dogbones), and use the retrofit lifters with the small base circle cam, and use the spider dogbone. For the retrofit cams, you have to have the valley machined and tapped for the spider.

They wouldn't. If you used link bar lifters, you'd have to use a standard base circle cam, instead of the small base circle. I ran a small based circle cam for years with no issues, but they get a bad reputation on the forums. I went 10.50 with one.

They wouldn't. If you used link bar lifters, you'd have to use a standard base circle cam, instead of the small base circle. I ran a small based circle cam for years with no issues, but they get a bad reputation on the forums. I went 10.50 with one.

The Comp Thumpr cams SUCK. I would choose anything else and they need at least 10.5:1 compression to work. For lifters, I would choose these over what you mentioned for your goals with the car. Morel makes their own lifters (unlike Comp), and have a great product, with great service, at a great price. These are the lifters I run. http://www.flowtechinduction.com/morel-sbf-link-bar-hydraulic-roller/

So the oil filter that is on the car now has 30 minutes of run time? If so, pull it off and cut it open and see what it looks like. If it looks clean, I'd keep trying to pull the lifters out. Have you used a pick to try and pick it up with? Sometimes they can be hard to pull up by hand because you can't get a good grip.

I've never had much luck with the Demons.

Intentions stated in the first post.

A PA built C4 is better than any C6. It's far from a weaker transmission and will hold up fine.

You're wasting your time with this one......

Check the crank endplay and see what it is. I wouldn't drive the car one single mile until you do that.

I'm just curious why you think the secondaries open too slow? The only reason I ask, is many people are under the impression that you should get a sudden power increase, or feel them open, which is totally untrue. With a properly tuned vacuum secondary carb, it should be a smooth transition that you never feel.

I think you really need the lower hole. When I had the stick, I could never get mine to work in the top hole.

It's 2014. A lot of things have changed, but unfortunately Flowmasters haven't.

I wouldn't put Flowmasters on anything, ever. Not only are they one of the most power robbing mufflers, but they're obnoxiously loud with a terrible TERRIBLE drone, that's almost unbearable. Nobody even turns around when they hear Flowmasters because they think it's just another redneck in a Chevy pickup.

Polishing compound on flat black......bad idea.

I would cut that sock off the sending unti, and just use a good pre pump filter. 3/8" line is plenty to support your power level, but I'm not sure about your gas. That's odd.

What pump are you using? How much power does the engine make?

Yeah I'm talking about the molding that goes around the buckets. The top of it lines up with the molding on the front of the hood.

I have an X also. It's a bit raspy, but it's okay I guess.

That's EXACTLY what I'm afraid of.

I caught the chrome boomerang molding with my shorts, and broke it in half. Can you replace that without removing the headlight bucket? Any tips to getting to the nuts on the clips to replace?

This comes down to a lot of personal preference. If you're looking for a good sound, the general consensus says to with the H pipe, but if you're going for performance, and X may hold a small advantage. The catback is totally subjective.

I had the same one as the one posted on my 351W.

Ha! Don't think a bunch of BS doesn't come out of woodys shop too.

I haven't had time to look at it yet. I'll probably work on it Sunday.