sportsroof69

I use the bolts.

Planning ahead....... Don't waste your money on a Performer intake. It's not good enough to begin with, and it sure wouldn't be good enough with better heads. Depending on what heads you end up with, the Perfromer RPM may not be enough. I've built a pretty good amount of these motors, and I can actually show you some of mine.

The performer gives you more weight saving than performance. I'm talking real world results and not magazine results. The RPM is not too big.........

It's not "far" better. It's slightly to moderately better.

On a stock motor, as indicated, the combo I listed will work perfect. It's been done over and over and over...... And that intake isn't too big for anything. It's only slightly better than stock.

So stock heads? Performer RPM intake, and a Anderson N21 cam.

I've dealt with woody, and some of the things he does might surprise a lot of people.......... I just know that the machinist I use has also built a ton of SBFs, and has never, not once, seen a block like that. So while there may be a few out there, it's far from a common issue. I wouldn't be worried in the least to pull a motor at a salvage yard and use the block.

And woody seems to be the only person on earth that's seen this cracking "problem." He's very good at marketing and selling......

Late model ones are plenty strong, and unless you plan on making 800 HP, it doesn't matter. Also, I'd recommend a set of Morel link bar lifters in any performance build, and if that's what you do, it doesn't matter if it's a roller block or not. All you need is link bar lifters to make it work.

That's on motor...I don't think I've ever not left on the transbrake, with the bottle. All the converter guys say that's how it should work, if the converter is right. The tbrake is for R/T, and with the right converter, should make no difference in th 60'.

Every car is a little different, especially when it comes to autos and converters. Make one change at a time, and compare the slips. Try launching from an idle, like mentioned, and make small pressure adjustments. Just make sure you make one change at a time. My car seems to 60' the same, no matter if I footbrake, transbrake, or leave from an idle.

People say you're not supposed to, but I use a Craftsman with the dial, and it always works fine for me.

Haha.... Well R/T doesn't affect anything, so it doesn't matter.

We need a facepalm smiley.

What did it 60'?

Sounds like a converter problem.....if you call not blowing the tires off a problem.

This is a little contest that a friend and I drove down to Mexico for. His car is an '08 Mustang with a built 3V and a 72mm turbo on it. It made 902rwhp, and he has the rest of the car built to handle it. We were both on drag radials, and I ran on motor, so not bottle. His 902 rwhp vs my car on motor. Should be no contest ;) You can here me spin on the initial hit, but the tires quickly hook and do work. My car runs 10.90s on motor, so I'd say the tires work pretty well on the street. I let out when you see the white truck go by.

I LOVE my ET street radials, and to set some things straight, they don't have the same construction as a standard street tire. I run 20 psi in mine all the time, and it's not unsafe, and yes, they will hook on the street. I'll post a video on here, but I'm unsure about the rules regarding street racing videos, even if they're taken in Mexico ;).

275/60 in the back and 215/65 in the front.

Morels are great. I turn mine to 7200 RPMs.

Which BFGs? They make a lot of tires. If you're talking about the popular radial T/As, no, they will give you no traction.

Sure you can. Anything can be accomplished with money.

I love my ET street radials. The car is 100% more fun since I put them on, than it was before them. They WILL HOOK. It's nice to finally press down the pedal on the street, and the car go, rather than go up in a smoke show.

Maybe I missed it. What's your total timing?

WHOA!!!!! Where'd you come from?