miketyler

Not sure why 16" never really hit the mainstream but I would stay away from them because of the limited choices for tires. Sorry, am not that good with Photoshop

I nearly opted for one when I was comparing the price of putting in a factory tach panel. You dont see too many cars with them. Originally were those installed at the factory or by the dealer?

I really like the SoT coil over system but my front end is all new with less than 1000 miles on it. I'd like to get more use out of it and the shock/spring replacement products would let me retain all that. I am trying to improve ride quality and while that kit would be great I cant help but think it might be overkill for my needs. That's a good idea, I think I will call Shaun next week and discuss...maybe he has some suggestions on improving ride quality.

I think maybe the top ring is the retainer for the spring and the flat plate is for the shock so each are independent. I will need to research to see what ride height range it offers but most assuredly is a better solution than I have now. For those in the know here, is dual adjustment a big plus for a car that's street driven?

I drove the car this week during my time off and was again reminded of how unhappy I am with the ride quality. :( I found the article below and was thinking about a pair of the bolt-in coil over conversion shocks like the ones mentioned there. A pair of coil over adjustable height units seem to be worth investigating. I plan to bring the car up another inch which should only help. Any recommendations on this type of upgrade? http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts/1306-front-coilover-suspension-guide/viewall.html For the rear my flat springs need to go. I planned to buy a set of rear springs, mid or reverse eye, with 2" drop and then use drop blocks to get rockers level to the front. I don't thrash my car so drop blocks don't bother me. I see they have the same coil over solution for the rear but I don't like the idea of rasing up the car at the shock locations. Any thoughts there?

Great story. Pics would help illustrate especially if you had some old ones from the past and some today. Gulfstream Aqua eh? You don't see that color too often...

I think Manley is right...if it gets to be too much and you want some help let us know. I'd be glad to delete threads and ban some spammers. Is logging turned on for the user IP origination addresses? If so, it sure seems easy enough to ban any user accts that have the same IP address as the offenders.

Its the harness that is stayed to the hood. It has the plug on one end you were asking about and the two light bulbs on the other end that fit inside the scoop.

Are you converting to a turn signal hood? I have an original harness for sale for turn signal hood.

Was going thru pics on my PC and thought I would add this illustration for reference. I tool these during a recent restoration. Here you can see the adjustment levers that can be carefully moved with a slot screwdriver. A little movement of these can ease or add spring tension at either end of the gauge reading. I would assume making any changes here might affect behavior over the full range. If you find one gauge that is off more than the other two you can go here but as always, take care not to damage or bend any of the very delicate parts inside. This pic is the inside of the temp gauge.

This is a good topic. I dropped my car dramatically and had my stock springs de-arched 2". Under vehicle weight load, they flatten out to nearly straight with no arch to them. The ride is ok but firm and the front is worse than the rear. I am now looking at best options to restore driving comfort while trying to retain current ride height. BTW, that sounds like a good spring shop you are dealing with; mine charged me $100/spring. I didn't realize at the time, that was about what I could have bought a new pair of drop springs for.

Good stuff. The gauges have very delicate adjustments that will influence light "spring pressure" and deflect the needle in either direction. My guess would be that an adjustment made in one direction might have an affect on the full sweep point in the opposite direction. I think I have pics of these somewhere when I restored mine.

Agree with Barnett - the Sanden upgrade is easy and you can buy a Tru-Flow condenser to fit your needs that's more efficient with R134a. As for vacuum motors I have an entire AC box with pods I will sell you. Not NOS but they are all working

What about windshield trim?

I am still looking at my options. That pic I attached in the first post was taken on the cars first drive with a full 4" drop all the way around. I have since raised the car back up 1" replacing the 2" blocks in the rear for 1" blocks and adding the plastic 1" spring spacers in front. The car is perfectly parallel to the ground and rockers are level. It's more drive-able now and the ride isn't that bad but if I were to do it again I wouldn't de-arch the rear leafs and would consider drop spindles as well as lowering springs for the front and rear.

Although I have only bought one, I had really good luck with the Dan Carpenter repo. It did slip in much easier than I was expecting but maybe my wheel gap had opened? It activates anywhere on the wheel. Its a good product, no need to pay 2-3X as much for a NOS collectors item unless that is your goal.

Although I have only bought one, I had really good luck with the Dan Carpenter repo. It did slip in much easier than I was expecting but maybe my wheel gap had opened? It activates anywhere on the wheel. Its a good product, no need to pay 2-3X as much for a NOS collectors item unless that is your goal.

Wow - that has a lot of metal in it and has a surprising level of gloss. This is the stuff I was referring to and is somewhere between a flat and semi gloss finish. Very low sheen.

Wow - that has a lot of metal in it and has a surprising level of gloss. This is the stuff I was referring to and is somewhere between a flat and semi gloss finish. Very low sheen.

The charcoal metallic black by Accumatch is a great product but I wouldnt recommend it for large parts as it leaves a halo each pass and is impossible to get a smooth uniform finish. This may not be avoidable with any rattle can product. I ultimately went with the original PPG lacquer product and the results were amazing. Very professional looking and consistent finish.

The charcoal metallic black by Accumatch is a great product but I wouldnt recommend it for large parts as it leaves a halo each pass and is impossible to get a smooth uniform finish. This may not be avoidable with any rattle can product. I ultimately went with the original PPG lacquer product and the results were amazing. Very professional looking and consistent finish.

There is plenty off demand for both 69 and 70 rim blow wheels. You shouldnt have much of a problem selling or trading for what you want.

It is substantially different for the 69 as it has locking mechanism for the 70 key-in-the-column car. I think it might still work but at least the locking wheel wont be functional. Beyond that the 70 was a larger diameter column. The wheel hub may look a little odd on the skinnier 69 column.

Original trap door trim panels can be a hard to find. Did you talk to M2F that responded to your original post? I have some leftover FDS parts but not an upper trim panel

My car had door speakers originally. I bought a set of Polk 4x6 speakers like these pictured and the clearance is VERY close on the window when it travels up and down. Also, not a lot of low end response from these but they serve the purpose and are probably an improvement over OEM