MikeStang

So who all is heading to Cruising the Coast this year?
We are leaving Lake Charles LA on Thursday the 6th around Noon time to head to the House on the coast that we rent every year...If anyone wants to cruise with our gang you are more than welcome to join up with us.
Will be a 3-4 car convoy from Lake Charles to Denham Springs, where we will pick up one possibly 2 more cars and then make our way to the Coast....

So who all is heading to Cruising the Coast this year?
We are leaving Lake Charles LA on Thursday the 6th around Noon time to head to the House on the coast that we rent every year...If anyone wants to cruise with our gang you are more than welcome to join up with us.
Will be a 3-4 car convoy from Lake Charles to Denham Springs, where we will pick up one possibly 2 more cars and then make our way to the Coast....

Yup lol.
There are several ways to keep track of your car these days..1 I really like is pretty cheap and no one but you knows its there, so you could Recover your car without any police assistance :)
 
Easy tracking can be done with an Old cell phone bought off Craigslist, or one of those Go-Phones with Prepaid minutes... Take the phone and hide it somewhere in the car and wire in a charger so that it will always be charging, then install the family locator App from one of the App stores and register your new car phone to track it...
Long as that phone is in the car you can get real time GPS location on map to find your car... There are a few one time fee devices out there as well you can get that are pretty good also.

Yup lol.
There are several ways to keep track of your car these days..1 I really like is pretty cheap and no one but you knows its there, so you could Recover your car without any police assistance :)
 
Easy tracking can be done with an Old cell phone bought off Craigslist, or one of those Go-Phones with Prepaid minutes... Take the phone and hide it somewhere in the car and wire in a charger so that it will always be charging, then install the family locator App from one of the App stores and register your new car phone to track it...
Long as that phone is in the car you can get real time GPS location on map to find your car... There are a few one time fee devices out there as well you can get that are pretty good also.

The smart money is to just get a little 50-125hp N2O kit and bolt it on.
You got forged pistons and all the good stuff in the motor, so there is NO reason it wont handle a 125 shot Easily with no problems....And IMHO N20 is safer than Boost because you got less shit to worry about.
Be sure you run a conservative tune and get a wet kit and hook it up and let her eat...
I ran a Top Shot kit on my motor on the dyno when we built it...Motor made 550hp, and a 125 shot got me 659hp... That's only a 109hp gain from a 125 shot but it was running seriously Rich because I was a little scared of it at first on a brand new motor, but now..Pfff.. I leave it rich and hit the switch... Power on demand.

Well this is not really 69 specific so figured I would post this here to get some insight and ask some questions and see what everyone thinks.
 
I finished building one of the torque boxes last night for my 66 Coupe and had been kicking the idea around of building a set of Sub Frame connectors with the left over 3x3x.188 wall square tube I had left over from my Rotisserie build....They wouldn't sale me anything but a 20' stick of the stuff so I had a little over 12' remaining and don't really have a use for it so Why not put it to good use right?
 
Anyhow as you can see from the pics I got the Torque box welded up and its just sitting in the car, then I took the 3x3 square tubing and instead of doing the normal sub frame connector route and sliding the tube up inside of the frame rails, I cut the bottom out and it fit right over the old beat up rails..
As you can see I chopped the front down so that it ran all the way up and will tie together with the Torque box when its all done...
I will need to notch the connectors and bend them to get the alignment to meet up with the rear frame but I don't think I will have a problem with that.
 
Now here are a few questions.
1. once I get it all mocked up and get the metal all prepped will it be okay to weld the torque boxes and sub frame connectors in with the car on the Rotisserie?
I don't see why it would be a problem because the car is solid and the door opened and closed perfectly with it on the rotisserie before I took them off... The floor pans were replaced by the PO and are in good shape as well.
 
2. Jack Rails... I have only seen these things on the internet in 1 place and have not seen them in person on a mustang Ever... If no one has heard of these ill explain real fast... basically its a piece of 1x1 square tube that mounts over the pinch weld area between where the rockers and floor pans are welded together.
It seems like it might be a good idea, plus would help protect things... Anyhow I am planning to do a set of these and run triangulated stringers from the jack rails to the sub frame connectors.
Ya'll think this is something worth doing??

1. Move the big red wire on the solenoid that goes to the starter over to the other side of the Solenoid which is
"The battery Side".... Your basically just putting Straight power to the New Starter all the time, but it wont engage till you do step #2.
 
2. Route a new wire to the starter signal post from the location you removed the big starter wire off of and your good to go

So who all is heading to Cruising the Coast this year?
We are leaving Lake Charles LA on Thursday the 6th around Noon time to head to the House on the coast that we rent every year...If anyone wants to cruise with our gang you are more than welcome to join up with us.
Will be a 3-4 car convoy from Lake Charles to Denham Springs, where we will pick up one possibly 2 more cars and then make our way to the Coast....

So who all is heading to Cruising the Coast this year?
We are leaving Lake Charles LA on Thursday the 6th around Noon time to head to the House on the coast that we rent every year...If anyone wants to cruise with our gang you are more than welcome to join up with us.
Will be a 3-4 car convoy from Lake Charles to Denham Springs, where we will pick up one possibly 2 more cars and then make our way to the Coast....

Thanks Guys.
Rechecked the timing with my light and it was dead nutz on. don't remember the maker of my timing light, but its just got an on and off button, nothing special and its a few yrs old and works fine on my car, which has ALL of the same components as my biddies car does.
His Dizzy and coil are new and his 6AL box is several years old.
They did check the 6AL box before he brought it to me and it was fine.
 
So last night we marked the balancer and took it for a ride and it ran like a top with no problems and balancer marks appear to be in same location as they were when I marked them.
Distributor gear pin was not sheared off and looks just fine as well...This thing is Odd.
So we will be driving it for 5 plus hours to Cruising the Coast next week but we will have a Spare MSD box, spare known good Parts distributor and spare Coil Just in case HaHa

Okay since the 8.8" is ready to go for my 66, I figured I would toss some of this stuff out there for.
I have the original 8" Peg leg rear end that is Free to a good home if anyone wants to come get it.
Also have a 9" 28 Spline Trac Loc with no gears I wont be needing... Its just the Trac Lock its self, no housing or anything..Would like to get $50.00 plus shipping.
Will post pics this evening.
PM or text me
225-241-3278
All parts are in Lake Charles LA

Okay so what's everyone thoughts on some sort of Bracing after removal of the shock towers and install of mustang 2 suspension?
Yeah I know all the load is now isolated to the Frame rails, but there sure aint much up front in the way of thick sheet metal.
I am planning on running some supports behind the inner aprons and through the firewall to tie into the cage when the time comes, and then tying them to the front of the frame rails up near the Rad support.
I still need to purchase a tubing bender that will do a good job and not cost a fortune.

So who all is heading to Cruising the Coast this year?
We are leaving Lake Charles LA on Thursday the 6th around Noon time to head to the House on the coast that we rent every year...If anyone wants to cruise with our gang you are more than welcome to join up with us.
Will be a 3-4 car convoy from Lake Charles to Denham Springs, where we will pick up one possibly 2 more cars and then make our way to the Coast....

So who all is heading to Cruising the Coast this year?
We are leaving Lake Charles LA on Thursday the 6th around Noon time to head to the House on the coast that we rent every year...If anyone wants to cruise with our gang you are more than welcome to join up with us.
Will be a 3-4 car convoy from Lake Charles to Denham Springs, where we will pick up one possibly 2 more cars and then make our way to the Coast....

Well the dates and Routes have been released and registration is open.
I will be signing up today and am planning on trying to make the Long Haul Club for my very first Power Tour.
It will end up being about 2,000 miles round trip for me :-)
I ffigure with the tour starting in my back yard and the 1st 3 legs being in Louisiana and Texas this will be my best chance of making it ALL the way
Is anyone else doing the tour?
I have 2 other friends who are Joining me for at least 2 legs of the run.

PM Sent Det.
 
Oh I am also planning on installing a 4 link set up on this axle so that will also be in the write up...Stay Tuned

Take a Pin Punch and drive the bolt out first then whack the bracket and it will come loose

Completed the shortening last night...Pics to come

Okay guys since I don't need any of this stuff any longer and hate to toss it in the garbage I figured I would offer it up.
Everything is old and worn out but some of yall might need it.
 
1. Pair Of Upper and Lower Control Arms..Ball Joints shot but good serviceable arms.
 
2. Spring Perches.. They are rebuildable if you want them
 
3. Steering Box...feels pretty tight but Shaft was cut by PO...maybe use for internal parts.
 
All Parts free to good home you pay shipping or come get them.

Yeah I know its not a 69 But I also know a lot of you guys also have 64-68 Cars as well so thought I would drop this on here in case anyone was wondering about it, or wanted to do it...
I have a 9" housing I could use but would still need to get a center section plus axles etc...
So after some reading and research here is what I found and why I am going to perform this swap.
The 1995 and up Explorer's have an 8.8" rear which is supposed to be almost a direct bolt in for the 67-68 cars, but the center section is offset to the driver side by almost 3", even tho the over all length is about 1/4-1/2" difference... Several people have reported that all you need to do is move the leaf spring pads and bolt it in and swap your Pinion Flange and it will work...Stories Vary on clearance in the tunnel area with regards to the 3" offset...
 
My reasoning for wanting to go to the 8.8" over the 9" is two fold... First off Price, secondly the advantages of the 8.8 from the exploders which are quite a few.
The 8.8s from the 95 and up exploders come in several gear ratios, but the most common seem to be 3.73 with Limited Slip Diff, have 31 Spline Axles, and factory Disc Brakes with internal Drum brake parking assy.
 
I recently scored a low mileage complete rear for $200.00 for the local pick and pull and they already had it pulled, and when I say complete I mean from caliper to caliper, along with the sway bar, all the parking brake cables and brake lines.. Upon inspection inside the rear looked pristine which I think is due in part to the Factory synthetic oil that is recommended and the low mileage on this one.
 
I will be shortening the long side and using a second short side axle to complete the unit.
Have never shortened an axle housing but for the price If I screw it up I can get another one and try again, but after extensive reading on the subject and talking to a local shop that has done several of these it doesn't appear to be a problem.
The guy at the local shop that has done several suggested I make my cuts, bevel the ends then clamp it up in some C-Channel on top and bottom and weld it up... he said that this is the method he has used every time and the tubes area always straight when he is done and he has not had any issues out of any of the rears, but he did state that one should take their time when making the welds and move around to prevent warping.
 
Anyhow would like to hear from any of you guys who may have done this swap.
 
Also in addition I am getting the Alum driveshaft from the same explorer and going to take it and have it shortened and balanced so I will also have a nice alum Driveshaft to go with this thing to boot haha.

Tore the suspension out if my 66 and doing a Mustang 2 kit so i have all the orig. Parts to get rid of brakes and spindles spoken for.
Heres what I got, prices listed by part, you pay shipping.
 
1.Upper control arms- Free
2. Lower Control arms- Free
3. Spring Perches- Free
4. Strut Rods- $25.00
5. Steering box with shaft cut off by PO.- Free
6. New Coil springs..dont know rate-$20.00

Tore the suspension out if my 66 and doing a Mustang 2 kit so i have all the orig. Parts to get rid of brakes and spindles spoken for.
Heres what I got, prices listed by part, you pay shipping.
 
1.Upper control arms- Free
2. Lower Control arms- Free
3. Spring Perches- Free
4. Strut Rods- $25.00
5. Steering box with shaft cut off by PO.- Free
6. New Coil springs..dont know rate-$20.00

Measure the pilot hole depth in the crank, then go measure the Pilot Hub length on the converter.
If the hole in crank is not at least .010-.015 deeper than the length of the converter pilot hub I wouldn't run that converter personally.
The stock converters for AOD/AODE/4R70W usually all have short studs on them instead of bolt holes.
 
When you think you have the converter seated all the way in the transmission you should not be able to stick your hand into the area between the converter and bell housing at the top, that is ONE Indication you got it all the way in.
Now take a straight edge and lay across the bell housing and measure from the mounting pads on the converter to the bottom of straight edge...for an AOD it should be 1" or a little more. AODE 1.030" but distances can vary up to .050 plus or minus and you are good.
If you do indeed have it seated, go ahead and install trans and converter on to the motor being sure the trans is seated all the way before tightening up the bolts, don't use the bolts to pull the trans up.
If your converter has studs be sure they are lined up with the holes in the flex plate because they may or may not go into the holes.
Now once its bolted up be sure the converter is seated into the trans still by rotating and pushing it backwards as long as the studs didn't go into the bolt holes. If they did go in slightly that is okay.
Now get a set of feeler gauges and measure the distance between the flex-plate and the mounting pads on converter.
If the Gap is between .060-.185 your good to slide converter forward and bolt the converter up.
If however the converter mounting pads are already in contact with the flex plate, your converter is either slid out and not seated OR you will need another converter....
You should always have some converter pull out...
The converter exerts a forward pushing FORCE on the rear of the crank, and I am not talking about converter ballooning either, its got something to do with hydraulic pressure created by the trans and transferred into the converter that pushes it out, and that is where the flex plate is supposed to absorb some of it and FLEX, hence the name Flex plate.
Now if you have no pull out on the converter you have eliminated the air gap and effectively removed a large margin of the flex plates Flex thus pushing it past what it is designed to handle and THAT is when it gets transferred into pushing on the thrust bearing to excessive amounts.
 
So you see it could be Several factors that can cause Thrust failure.
1. converter not seated.
2. Converter Pilot hub bottoming out in crank pilot
3. No pull out on the converter.
 
Essentially if the hole in crank isn't deep enough and you bolt it up its already a no win situation.
The hole should be deeper and there should be converter pull out because as the flex plate flexes forward, the converter pilot hub moves forward, and if it bottoms out in the pilot hole before the flex plate can do its job, you just killed a thrust bearing.... Now Ask me how I know all this wonderful information LOL

Not the cheap Lakewood traction bars.
These bars are very heavy duty, powder coated and have the extra mount hole for staggered shock set up.
Bars replace the lower spring mount plate.
$40.00 Plus shipping.

Not the cheap Lakewood traction bars.
These bars are very heavy duty, powder coated and have the extra mount hole for staggered shock set up.
Bars replace the lower spring mount plate.
$40.00 Plus shipping.