MikeStang

Wonder will this master work on a set of Wilwood front and rear Discs? Have a set on my buddies 68FB that came on the car when he got it and also came with the Wilwood 3 pedal set and triple master cyl, which we wont be using because his wife wants an Automatic so now gotta come up with a power brake set up

Finished up the Ground effects on my buddies 68FB and sand blasted door jams, front and rear window channel and trunk channel to remove rust and old sealer... Hoping to put the whole car in Epoxy primer tonight :) No progress on my 66 Coupe, but did change the Roller lifters in my 408 from the link bar lifters to standard spyder retainer due to excessive noise

Not my thumb nail but its odd that it pulled up that pic because I have Fiero Seats in my car of that same design, just no red insert LOL

Cant wait to see the results... If it works It would be a hell of a lot easier than glass beading all the small parts and nuts and bolts LOL

On a side note, its low enough in the front that I have had the sway bar smack the frame, so I added some longer end links to help get it up a bit and cured that problem

Here is my beater. I have drop coils with a bit cut off of them, stock control arms and front tires are 255/40/17's. I don't bottom out on my bump stops because I don't have any installed LOL, but I don't ever feel as tho the front end bottoms out...However the back end is another story and it has bump stops

A local friend has a 1970 Vert that was involved in a pretty bad accident recently...Car was broad sided on the driver side and he is going to be getting rid of her since he doesn't have the ability to fix the damage. Car was a pretty clean little driver, so if anyone is interested in picking it up let me know and I will pass his contact information on to you... I know the 70 Verts were pretty low so far as production numbers go, just figured one of our master builders here could fix her up. He is located in Patterson Louisiana BTW

yeah he did mention something about reWelding and recutting, but man that sounds like such a lot of work when you could just get a good used piece and toss it in there LOL.. But yeah I suppose you can say that no steering box is 100% rebuilt with all new parts all brought to Factory like new standard... They are going to have to Re-use some of your old stuff LOL.

I did my Box myself and it came out great. I got my rebuild kit from stangersite. He actually said if the shaft is worn that you just have to find a good used part to replace it and that is what he does with all of his rebuild.. Mine was in good shape so I was good to go

let me rephrase that..i don't have any that is messed up so bad it cant be used as is on a car Hahah

I have been wanting to try my New Miller Tig out on some pot metal but don't have any that is messed up beyond repair LOL

Buy 2 small LED strips with the lights that project to the sides instead of straight out the top of the strip, then take each strip and stick them to the sail panels at the bottom in the gap between the said panels and your existing roof panel just so they project out but cant really be seen... our sail panel lights SUCK, so I did the 2 LED Strips and put all LED Bulbs in the courtesy lights under the dash and now when I hit the interior lights you can actually see what you are doing in the car... It Glows like a Christmas tree in there now HaHA

aint that big hole where the wiper motor connection pops out at? Been a while since I looked, but I know I got wires coming out of there on my car LOL

Oh I got a Cool Milwaukee M12 heated jacket from the GF, along with some Awesome 1000 thread count Egyptian cotton sheets, a new comforter and one of those neat little retro Atari games with like 100 games on it from back in the Atari days haha http://www.thewarmingstore.com/milwaukee-m12-black-heated-3in1-ripstop-jacket-only.html you guys who get cold weather a lot should really look into these heated jackets they are the SHIT

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NICE Looks super slick

I have them both on my car and they do just fine. There is no interference with them, as the sub frame connectors fall just short of the front spring eyes leaving plenty room for the caltrac parts. I will say this however, if you are using reverse eye springs with the caltracs, I hope they send you a good set of front brackets because I have destroyed 3 sets LOL.. The front bracket for the reverse eye spring is made different than the standard and mid eye springs...as in there is no nice big roll pin up there because there is not enough room for them to fit, so they weld a flat piece of bar stock in place of the roll pin to make it fit..all in all it works, but the 1st 3 sets I had I ended up breaking the welds on them which is a testament to the fact they are doing what they are supposed to do which is putting down force on the front of the spring keeping it from wrapping up... I can still decimate the tires below 50mph tho, but its MUCH better than without the bars HaHa

I currently have lizard skin sprayed inside my car, and under the bottom, as well as dynamat on the entire floor, roof, inside doors, fully covering the wheel wells, and the entire inside of the trunk, along with the trunk lid under side...it helps but my car is still louder than I want it to be. Oh I also have that thick asphalt matt on top of the dynamat as well...I am currently considering ordering some second skin luxuary liner which is a Mass Loaded Vinyl which is supposed to do the trick HaHa

Well I didn't get any mustang parts for my stuff...Wait I did I got a sand blaster for the 66 HaHa.. I bought my best friend and his wife a new rear tail light panel, trunk corners, and lower rear valance that I installed for her 68 FB Project tho HAHA.. does that count ?

I am in Lake Charles Louisiana Right now Pruett, but will be home in Denham Springs Louisiana in a few short days...Why what's up?

Yeah my 69 has a crack in the line right below the window on the pass side, I told the body guy to make the line deeper and not fill it at all if he could help it so that when it did develop a crack it would be down in the seam, but he didn't listen and not I have a nice single little crack in the clear that is just outside of the little joint where the quarter and filler panel meet up :( Anyone ever seen those alladin 4 in 1 rods used to bond pot metal to a metal screw? I found a video of that online... So whose up for making some caps from sheet metal...I know one of yall has to have the skills for that LOL

If I recall you have to have a return line if you use an external. I do think I read something somewhere about one of the new systems that did not require a return line with inline pump tho.

Well it seems I managed to talk my buddy out of the tower and convinced him that we shouldn't fill the gaps between the buckets and fenders or between the caps and quarters LOL... Likely I just saved him a lot of money. I did talk to the guys at "The Restomod Store" and asked them how they went about filling the gaps on the Green 67 FB "Calling Card" that they built. They said they used a form of panel bond applied to the caps and quarter, then bolted it on and lined it up. Once it was on he said they cleaned the panel bond off that seaped out, and recessed the joint line down a little "I am assuming that this was done to give the filler a place to lock in" He then said that they used a short stranded fiberglass reinforced filler to build the area up and cover the seam, then added standard premium light weight filler to that.... When I asked if it had cracked yet he said no but he had seen some swelling after the car was completed and had been driven and shown and sat in the sun a lot, but due to the light color of the car no one ever sees it until its pointed out. I sure do like that smooth look but to be honest I am not prepared to paint a car only to have the paint start cracking and looking like crap.... There has got to be a Sure Fire method to making it stay and not crack LOL... Okay whose up for making some sheet metal caps and headlight buckets HaHa

Look into the CSRP Brakes. My car was a Factory power set-up to begin with, I went with the CSRP Granada Swap and couldn't be happier..Cost like $749.00 for the kit and come with a master Cyl, I then went to O'Reilly Auto parts and bought a new booster and poof front brakes were done and it stops on a dime...

Yeah like I said we are going to remove all the filler and see how the PO secured the ground effects on. Should they be fully welded out from one end to the other doing it little at a time and skipping around till they are done, or will tack welds every inch or so do the trick? So once its all good and secured, and welds are ground down would the Rage Gold be a good filler to cover it all up with or should I opt for something with a bit more flexibility to it? a premium filler with short strand glass perhaps?