jjstang

I got them off Amazon I think , there used for trailer leveling

I used a laser level to establish a datum line and measured from there according to the factory specs. I used screw jacks for micro adjustment. 8 points. Worked good.

Thanks, that helps a lot.

Midlife is correct. Sorry I wasn’t clearer. Anybody done this?

Hey, I'm at the wiring stage. Does anyone have an idea of how much and sizes of the split braided wire sleeve I would need to order? TIA

I can’t believe I read the whole thing.... after the first couple posts, it went downhill fast.

I’m at that stage. Are you after rust prevention, sound reduction or heat reduction. It’s very different. Few products do all three well. If you’re going for original there’s products for that but if you remove it I wouldn’t think that’s what you want.

I’ve asked that question before, they just like they would flow better. But evidently the stock manifolds flow best.

I’m at the seam sealer stage. Every lap has a front and back. Are you sealing both sides. Did I make sense

I can’t get this out of my head.....

I used 8 screw jacks. Used a laser level for a datum line adjusted to the factory specs. I think one piece floor pan was probably less work in the long run. Especially when you start removing metal and start chasing new found rust.

Ok, so the pixelation didn’t bother me till you pointed it out. Now I notice it on all the newer cars. I watched the wccc video about the plasma bulbs. They were so bright you can’t see if the pixelation is present. I will say the old led seemed darker red. I’m sure the lens affects the red and pix. I wonder if adding a another red filter would defuse the pix and make more red. Just thinking out loud. Update us if you make a purchase.

Just curious, what size engine you have and rear gear. Tia

Time to make the decision. It appears painless is more expensive with original colors, aww has extra circuts and comes with switches and the wires are labeled? ..... I'm not a neophyte but I never replaced the whole thing, So what are your experiences/opinions.

I asked the same question. Finally ended up brushing it on in the hard to reach places. I’ve used both masters series and por 15. I ended up preferring the por15 because it was the least stringent about surface prep. Inside doors and cowls are virtually impossible to get to bare metal. Por15 actually likes a little rough/rusty surface for better adhesion. You still have follow the cleaning and acid treatments so it doesn’t fail.

That was my first thought

Thanks for the replies.... The por-15 has been around a long time. I mentioned the Master series primarily since their surface prep requirements are pretty lenient. I look at the Por-15 tech sheet and it said it can be used over rust but didn't say anything about cleanliness. It didn't mention What spray gun tip? Are you using it as a replacement for epoxy? The whole car? But no one told me they are getting in to these tight spots.... (-:

Ok, I'm at the point where I'm stripping the car down to bare metal in prep to epoxy coat. I'm looking from inside, around the top inner/outer wheel wells and wondering how the hell does one get in there to strip it down. There's not much space to crawl in there. What did people really do in there. I'm thinking of using the master series silver in there because the prep requirements are not as stringent. There's a lot of nooks and crannies where stripping to bare metal seems impossible. Places where you couldn't get a blasters into. Maybe chemical strippers, but I wanted to avoid that, especially in some of those tight spots you have to crawl into. What about the backside of inside doors and backside of inside the side kick panels. I'll bet that made sense.... Am I trying to hard?

So where is everyone hosting their pics. I would hate to pay for it......

Good ideas/advice. Didn’t know about the asbestos. Got a couple questions about the primer. It sounds like the pot life is only a couple/few days so I would want to mix just enough. Is there some coverage ratio like “10oz covers 5 square feet” . And do I need to get down to bare metal or can I prime over original primer or sanded clear/base.

I'm finally to the point that I start stripping the undercoat/sound deadener from inside and out the whole car. I know blasting is the best, but I decided to do it manually. I assume this is going to be long process and I'm concern about flash rust taking over before I can hit it with the epoxy primer. Again, I assume I will have to do it in sections, maybe a days worth of stripping and the next day to spray, and so on. It will probable take longer than the 7 day window so I'll probably shoot a final coat all over in one day at the end. Hoping I don't have to rough sand be fore the final coat. Looking for advice TIA

Beautiful

Some PO installed A/C to my car. Upon dismantling, this is what I found. I have some fiberglass experience, made surfboards as a kid, so I'm not against attacking a repairs. Other than cutting out a cardboard template I'm not sure how to go about it. Particularly the lip/channel. Do you think this is worth the challenge, doable? The used ones I've found are very expensive. I like to repair parts when it makes since. TIA

I agree with sixt9, don't underestimate just replacing the 40 year old stuff. Made a huge difference on my car. Depends what your after. I've keep investigating new setups but also cringe at the prices. Ultimately I think roller perches and the arning drop and I'm good. I don't really want to completely lose the feel of a classic car, that's what it's all about to me.

A huge thumbs up. Tried out Ridge's tool this weekend. It's fantastic!! Works great. Thanks