jjstang

Over the years I’ve considered swapping to the 70s style because of cable. The aerolatch looks slick but are very pricey. This prompted me to google locking hood pins. There are some inexpensive options, less than $20. They look like the might work but didn’t see anything in a stainless steel but black could work for me. I’ll be interested in what you decide on.

Are you sure you don’t have the hoses reversed? Although that usually produces a significant shutter it might be worth checking.

I got the same response from unisteer too. mines a 69 w/ 351w, 4r70w auto, power everything so your results might be different but I ended up with hedmens. They were labeled for engine swaps. They seem to be a little tighter to the engine. Worked for me. No beating them with a hammer either. Don’t know if this helps but might be worth checking.

Thanks so much.

Over the years I’ve made changes. 1” lowering coils, Shelby drop and now 17” 234x45. I’m hitting the ground occasionally so I am curious of how much it has dropped drop stock. I measure 23 1/2 from the fender lip to the ground. Can someone tell me what the stock measurement is? TIA

Good question

I got mine classic tube.

I see. That wasn’t my problem. Probably an L bracket to the bottom would work.

My car is assembled. I tried to see if I could get a look down between the glass. That didn’t work. essentially I placed it as far down and towards the door jam as I could for clearance. Drilled two hole in the interior door shell. Used the device to determine where to drill holes. Very easy.

I installed those. I screwed it directly to the inside door panel. No brackets needed.

https://a.co/d/cfCrQRb this is what worked best for me. The spot weld cutter left metal that then needs to be ground down and was slower.

I did the nurelics. Work great

I’m out in of town right now but I can check when I get back. It was labeled for engine swaps.

I did 17x9 with 255 nitto on In the rear. I have mid eye leafs. No rubbing. I do need to lower the rear about an 1”.

I did the hedman 351w swap headers. No clearance issues with 4r70w and unisteer rack. They are tight to the block and spark plugs access is tight. This might help someone.

Thanks for the replies. I was told they were aluminum. A shop removed the anodize for me. I could make it shinier but not great. I was told I could spray it with some clear paint when done.

Anyone have experience with the repo rocker molding? Mine are in really rough shape.. After a few hours on the buffer, i got about 1/2 of one worked on. pits, scratches and such are still showing significantly. I can send it out for a professional at about $60 a foot, say $720(ouch), or but repos $160 a pair at NPD. This is not a show car. Opinions??

I got mine from Johns Mustang in Houston, no shipping charges because I'm in Houston. You might need to call NPD to find out who makes their better one.

I got the dynacorn. Happy with it. NPD doesn’t label them though.

Looks right to me, thanks

Just wanted to confirm the caliper is on the right side. This was according to the part number. Thanks

My 69 didn’t have the riveted one. Sorry I’m no help

They haven’t been on this site since 2014??

I don’t know if it’s still holds true but for some reason the button itself isn’t compatible with the 69. That’s what it said in the catalog. Had to reuse mine.

I did the Ididit tilt . fits fine and fits my rimblow