Rcodenewf

Just relisted my NOS mustang shelby transverse muffler: 271125024404 Thanks....John

Could the springs be in backwards and not locating the diff in the correct position because that looks like it is out a ton! John

Have a NOS transverse muffler on eb.y for sale: 271115596905 Will be listing an original Shelby GT 350 flip open gas cap as well. Thanks....John

How much for the master body kit for the 69? thanks...John

Hello FRH: I have that piece ..the M141 and it shows 65-68 as it does in the NPD link in the 'applications' ..i know it says 69 and 70 at the top of the page but not in the application. Jerrman has said that he used this same part on his but upon initial investigation it appears to me that this part would be way off. Maybe i should examine it further. Hopefully Jerrman can send me some pics of his being installed. Thanks for the link.....regards...John

I dont think this piece is available aftermarket yet so i'm hoping someone may have it left over from an outer rocker replacement. I need the forward piece of the outer rocker for a 69/70 that is directly behind the lower portion of the fender. Drivers side. I see the 67/68 is available but the contour is completely different. Thanks. John

Sorry..posted this in the wrong place. I have moved. it.. Thanks...John

Why didn't you just blame it on the keystrokes..:)...yes a tad rich certainly won't hurt. What carb you running? Engine mods? John

Here ya go Rip: full is about 10 ohms 3/4 is about 15 ohms half is about 20 ohms 1/4 is about 40 ohms e is about 65-80 ohms. I just verified those readings with a new sending unit i have in my shop. BTW...that 70 isn't from Manitoba originally is it? Regards....John

From 12.9 to 11.0 at idle you mean it went richer right and not leaner? Up the scale would be leaner. John

Ok...thanks...not sure if i have that one...

You looking for the aluminum bracket? John

If you find that the distributor wont drop right in and won't line up with the oil pump then try this as it works for me. Point your rotor at #1 on the cap and drop it in. When it stops and wont drop in fully, hold light pressure down on the distributor while having someone make a few short bursts with the key. The rotor will turn but don't worry about that as it is already in the helix of the camshaft gear and will then line up with the hex in the oil pump and drop right in. When i don't have someone to crank the key i just jump the solenoid switch with one hand while holding down on the distributor. Hope this helps.....John

Sent you a PM ....thanks...John

Try what Mach1Rider says and see if it works for you. I've always used the drill bit through the hole in the neutral safety switch but see if his recommendation regarding the key on-reverse light works for you...regards...John

Hello etel64....by 'dooh moment' do you mean that you couldn't synchronize the neutral positions of the shifter and trans.? I'm willing to try to explain it further for you....John

Any luck with it??

Loosen the nut on the linkage at the trans. Put the shifter in neutral then put the trans in neutral. Lock down the nut on the linkage. As far as the neutral safety switch goes, while in neutral loosen the two screws at the switch on the trans. There's a small hole in the switch in which you insert a drillbit...not sure of the size....you may have to rotate the switch to insert the drill bit...while the bit is inserted lining up the switch, tighten up the two screws holding the switch. Then pull out the drillbit..that should work. John

Take the wire off the sending unit at the tank and ground it by using a small test lead or something that will make good contact inside the plug to a good clean chassis ground. Have someone watch the fuel gauge while you are doing this as you may have to reposition the connection to ground. This is with the key in the 'on' position. No need to touch any fuses. As mentioned previously, if the gauge goes to full then your gauge is fine and the issue lies in the sending unit. John

Actually i think what is happening is that the idle transfer slots do not have enough exposure. They are situated under the throttle plates. In park the engine can stand to run a tad lean. When you put it in drive there is a load and subsequently the mixture has to be richer. Try this: Take about 2-3 degrees timing OUT . This will bring the idle down of course and you will have to take the idle screw up a bit to get the required rpm in gear. On the dyno the operator was tuning for maximum hp/tq and the engine went from idle to wot. Not from idle to being loaded down with a torque convertor when in the car. You can also remove the carb and have a peek underneath and see how much of the transfer slots are exposed. Usually on a Holley i like to see them 'square' with equates to roughly .020. Keep us posted.....john

Does it run decent in park and when you put it in gear it runs rough/tries to stall or does it run rough all the time? John

What are the specs on the cam and what else is in that engine?Timing?JOhn

Well Congrats are in order 70mstang! Isn't it rewarding when all your hard work doesn't go unnoticed!Well done.....John

Very nice find! Although black is awesome, it would definitely be Indian Fire all the way. Just my opinion....John

Thanks TexasEd....