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Rcodenewf

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Everything posted by Rcodenewf

  1. These are the upper stop limit brackets. ..John
  2. That's a great illustration Rich. Thank you so much! As you say...clarifies a lot. Regards...John
  3. Thanks Rich: Not sure what the difference would be between B on the top left and B on the top right? I had seen this diagram on my microfiche but again wasn't sure which diagram would apply. The B on the left has a washer above and below the belt whereas the far right b diagram has one small washer under the buckle. Where the confusion lies is that i have 7 of those small washers..lol...and i'm a bit of a collector so i could have thrown extras in the box with the ones i took off...Or...i'm missing one. I think i had extras. The rear ones aren't required to pivot and therefore should only...i think ..have one washer under the buckle as the bolt does not have a shoulder. Thanks for the response! Regards..John
  4. The rear seat belt bolts are shorter than the front bolts and have the same thick washer. The front ones have the rubber washer whereas the rear has a serrated reddish washer. Does this washer go under the big bolt and on top of the big washer or underneath the big washer. The rear short bolts ive noticed has an "A" stamped on the head whereas the fronts are stamped "B". Thanks...John
  5. I'm doing that exact thing right now. I left it folded up over the pinch weld on this 70 convert while trial fitting the new sill plates and they will keep it down tight and secure. As above do not cut it short. Once the footwell portion settles down in place it will have to pull that extra from somewhere. Better have the extra under the sill IMO.....John
  6. With the tanks we installed Kris we installed a quality ( if there's such a thing .lol) sending unit and had no issues whatsoever with the factory gauge. On other ones aftermarket gauges were installed and worked great and were accurate as well. ...John
  7. Kris.. my son has a shop building custom vehicles and he shys away from the in line electric pump. Most are noisy and run hotter due to the fact that they are not submerged in fuel like the intank one. He sticks with sniper...great tech support...and in comparision with the FI Tech comes with everything you need. Fi Tech if i recall was sort of a'la'carte as far as the necessary brackets, studs etc. whereas it all came with the Holley. However that may have changed....He usually orders his exact fit tanks from Tanks Inc. ....John
  8. Thanks Midlife. We're always searching for simple solutions to our mustang problems. Regards....John
  9. A couple of the rubbers were missing from the window limiting stops so i went and bought a selection of vacuum caps at my local supplier. After matching the cap to the bracket i sprayed it with a little silicone and then warmed it with my heatgun. They fit quite tightly as the heat allows it to stretch and then constrict when cool. Probably will outlast the car. In the pic the original is in the middle and the ones on either side of it are the ones i did. . In my opinion its better than wrapping tape around it. Hope this helps someone who runs into this situation. John
  10. Sorry for the delay guys...put my back out working on this beast and hobbling around in the shop today. What i found was this: I removed the glass again...none of the rollers were broken but they were certainly wobbling around on the swedged post. As the post is countersunk in the roller somewhat, i taped two small washers over the post so the post/washers would contact my steel workbench rather than the nylon roller. I then peened the other side over again with a flat punch to tighten it up...that certainly did the trick. Appreciated everyones' input for sure. Onto the next problem once my back is up to it...lol. Thanks..John
  11. Aslanefe: sounds good. Ill pm u. Thanks..John
  12. aslanefe: Yeah, if you have the file that would be awesome. Whatever is easiest for you. They would then bolt in correct? Appreciate all the help guys. john
  13. Thanks aslanefe and Kris: Kris in your pic it shows your modified roller with a slot to keep it from moving..correct? I would imagine that you built them a 'tad' bigger to compensate for wear on the originals? As i roll the window up it kind of jams and then i can easily rock the glass clockwise and it will crank up some more so there's definitely slop there. I'm going to pull that glass out again as i'm in the assembly stage and it's easy to do now with the panels not installed yet. Appreciate the responses guys...thanks. John
  14. Anyone reproducing the rollers for the rear quarter glass on 69 70 convertibles...coupes are probably the same.? Thanks...John
  15. Glad u got it figured out Rich. My suspicions were confirmed when i saw the tilt of the engine. Great stuff!
  16. That's the tabs on the passenger side panel insert. Standard interior. The mach1 has a clock there.
  17. I was going to mention that the engine looked tilted way down on the rear. When you level it out with the trans and crossmember you might not have that clearance problem. ..John
  18. That looks good for sure TexasED.! ..John
  19. Just installing a new ford tooling dash. Looking at the passenger side panel there are 2 tabs..one on each side along with of course the 3 screws across the top and 3 across the bottom. I can't recall what i did on my 69 but on the new replacement dash pad there is no where for the left side tab closest to the center to screw onto. On the right there is a small metal tab...no clip that is buried in the rubber/foam. Do all the replacement dashes come this way? Thanks...John
  20. I've also used the stator terminal for years with success. Simple and effective. John
  21. I've had my eye out for a 6R80 for my 47 Merc coupe preferably from a 2015 and up Mustang or F150 2WD .I'm thinking it has to do with obtaining the proper stand alone to control that trans. I could really use the shifter from a mustang or F150 as i certainly modify it to fit. I have an open chassis and floor with basically no interference and can build around it. So if anyone has any connections i'd certainly be interested and i can't wait to follow your posts Thanks..John
  22. Just running into issues with the signals and park lights on a 70. After a search on the forum I understand that you wrote a summary of how the 70 circuit works vs the 69. Would you have access it? Thanks..John

    1. Mach1 Driver

      Mach1 Driver

      John, I have three pages of drawings describing the 70 turn signals. Hopefully these PDFs will be of help, but sometimes a technical discussion of how it works may not help a novice fix the problem, and I don't know your skill level. I wasn't aware that items could be attached here, so I hope it works. It may be better if you could start a Post on the Technical forum and tell us what is going on. The forum has been very quiet lately and a new post could help wake it up. Other people may have the same problem and benefit from the discussion and guys like Midlife could join in and give advice.

      1970 MUSTANG EXTERIOR LIGHTS PAGE 1 (1).pdf 1970 MUSTANG EXTERIOR LIGHTS PAGE 2.pdf 1970 MUSTANG EXTERIOR LIGHTS PAGE 3.pdf

  23. The owner of this car is asking for bluetooth and cd. So i think the din style is my only option. John
  24. Yep..i hear ya. I told my wife that id rather rebuild an engine than do weatherstrip..lol. Thanks again...John
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