LoneWolf2U

IIRC the black with the red stripe is the backup wires. With the trans in park the pair of wires that have continuity is for the start side.

IIRC the black with the red stripe is the backup wires. With the trans in park the pair of wires that have continuity is for the start side.

Your trans switch with 4 wires is for start and backup lts. 2 wires control the starter and has contacts in P & N gear selector settings. 2 Wires have contact when selector is in rev. allowing backup lights to lite up. Not sure what the single wire does.

Your trans switch with 4 wires is for start and backup lts. 2 wires control the starter and has contacts in P & N gear selector settings. 2 Wires have contact when selector is in rev. allowing backup lights to lite up. Not sure what the single wire does.

Loss of power under load, First place I would look is the dist for it not advancing the most common trouble spot. next would be ported vac, is it plugged?

If I recall, the C bars have a offset bend at the lower hole for the rod to fork to allow clearence for the exhaust. The W ones are straight downward bend.

Yes its messy and a two person job. Place rags under the master cyl. loosen one brake line slightly. As helper turns ign key to on then depresses brake petal SLOWLY while watching the light. When it goes out stop pressing petal and close brake line fitting. If the light will not go out repeat steps with other line. If there is an easier way let me know.:blink:

Looks like a rigged Ac switch. it prob turns on the compressor.

PD, Check Fleabay and look for a full kit. There are some on there right now with a make offer deal and would be cheaper than the 900.00 Muffler shop jobs.

flat spot area above starter will have the block date code.

Try gapping the points at .016-.017 for better dewell. 24 is not good enough and will create problems as rpm increases. The port near the mixture scres is the correct one, using the lower port will cause the dist to advance at idle. as for the sec opening setting slide a loosely bent paperclip on the rod going down to the sec throttle plate connection(right side of carb)up tight to base of dashpot. Do a test run at wide open and check to see if the clip has slid down the shaft, if it has they are opening and you can do spring replacing accorddingly.

Sec spring is located under the cap on the pass side, it has 4 screws holding it down. Too light of a spring will creat a bog, as secd open too soon. If your bog is off idle or with slight accel, try tweaking the acell pump screw till it jus touches the pump arm. This will give it a squirt just as you hit the throttle.

Dropping the rear of the trans 1/2 inch will raise the front of the engine 1-1 1/4 in. Thus affecting hood clearence.

Same dist I am using in my 351c. full mech advance, drive it on the street and going to do some track runs. My build is Old School except the full roller rockers, which they hadn't made yet when I was in school building up these cars. Points are cheap easy and i carry a set in the bag in the trunk on road trips. Never have to worry that the local parts store will have electronics when they fail. Go to napa and get a stock replacement and put a pertronics in it under a 100.00

I have a Holley Strip Dom, a one inch spacer with a 750 Holley covered ina 3in filter and have about 3/8 inch stock hood clearence.:shifty:

Just use the point replacing module in your dist, simple 2 wires to coil and resistor wire bypass.

Reset the points first, as being off will dewell will just be worse as timing advances. No changes in idle screws, rpms are too high and its off idle passages. Start with resetting carb to basic starting point, idle mixture screws out from bottoming 1 1/2 turns. Idle speed screw 2 turns down from screw contacting throttle plate linkage. choke fully open and engine up to operating temp. Set rpm to 700-800 and adjust mixture screw for smoothest idle. Check timing 8-10*bftdc check advance by slowly moving rpm up to 3k looking for smooth advancing timing as rpm raises. Accell pump should squirt fuel as throttle opens. timing this shot will help remove flat spot in off idle running.

Tach dashes were an option, checking the main wire harness will tell if it came with a tash cluster or not. No wire end connectors for tach in harness equals a standard dash cluster.

Main area of troubles are not centering the guages when replacing the retaining nuts. This will cause the guages not to work. Second is when plugging in the harness, if it is upside down it WILL fry the guages when key is switched on.

What rpm range? From your discription, I would check your vac advance first. It runs fine above and below this rpm point somewhat rules out fuel flow and points toward a timing problem. Areas to check are vac pot and breaker plate under points for wear or sticking that restricks movement for advancing.

:laugh:.... The wife gave me those to keep from scratching Baby's fenders.

Adverage time frame was 30-90 days. Engine assy and body plants were not in the same building. Engines were shipped by rail to assy plants.

Glad to hear that its going well and back togeather again. This is what I'm working on right now.

Mine did not, if your willing to get rid of it pm me. NHRA Street Class rules states that it must have a clutch switch to prevent starting in gear to run at the track.

What size is the rad? 20 or 24 inch I run a 24 with shroud and it keeps it cool for the most part. Sitting in traffic it will rise slowly but drops down quickly when moving even at slow speeds. The Hooker headers i have are coated which helps with eng bay heat, but the drivers side hangs too low and i have road rash on the 5&8 tubes.