Quick_R2

I don't live too far from them - if you want I can find out if they'll hook me up with a spare since I've bought a few things from them in the past (including my trans). As for the dropped motor, I'll probably wind up making a new crossmember anyways since I intend to go dry sump. Relocating the engine rearward would be nice as well as long as everything else fits:) I'm at that point where I'm trying to figure out how far is too far with the mods, especially when it comes to the suspension. Do I stick with bolt-ons, or go a bit further...:001_rolleyes:

If you want to keep your factory mechanical speedometer, the retrofit T56 that I purchased from D&D Performance in Wixom, MI has a mechanical output speedo sensor. I can't remember, but it might also have an electrical output as well should you desire that as well... I really appreciate your thread on the T56 install - I've had mine for a while, but I'm finally about ready to start back on the old Mustang project. I was going to modify my trans tunnel, but now I'm considering simply lowering the engine/trans to fit like you did. Have you been able to put a bunch of miles on the car? Any issues with driveline vibration? Thanks, Scott

Hey Roger, I'm just glad that you will put them to good use! Enjoy and keep me posted on your project's progress... -Scott

Sold.

Sold to Voxman! Time to make a donation!!!

Hey Voxman, I still have these - I'll send you a PM and we can go from there. Thanks again, Scott

No problem - I hope they are able to help you... PS - I dig your car...it looks great and I bet it's a blast to drive!

If you were interested in sticking with a replaceable LED bulb instead of the sequential kit, I would highly recommend talking with the folks at HiPoParts.com to supply you the bulbs. Having talked with them before, I know they have a lot of bulbs in stock to piece together custom orders for people. Shipping to Austrailia should be cheap (probably less than $10 USD). One thing to note is they do not use an "off the shelf" bulb - theirs are custom made for the particular application. This is why a company such as National Parts Depot has chosen to sell their kits vs. some of the other LED suppliers. Good luck with your project! -Scott

Howdy - I remember having to cut down on the carb stud to almost nothing with my 351C / Edelbrock Performer 4V / Carter AFB to make things fit under the stock hood. So it's only natural that the extra 0.280" deck height on a '69 351W would raise the carb pad ~0.250" all things being equal, causing your issue. I don't know what type of air filter assembly you initially used that attributed to the interference, however you may want to try a drop base filter assembly similar to the one listed on the following K&N site to gain some extra clearance: http://www.knfilters.com/Racing/cuslids.htm Perhaps find a filter base with an even greater drop to help you out as long as it doesn't interfere with the throttle linkage or choke assembly. Running a shorter filter in conjunction with the drop base just might provide the clearance that you're seeking. Also, perhaps instead of using something like a wingnut & stud sticking out, you could use something like a thin knob or knurled piece of stock (think: something easy to turn with your fingers, yet short & package friendly) with a tapped shoulder on the bottom side pointing down towards the carb. Of course you would need to open up the stud hole on the lid to match the od of the shoulder on the bottom of the knob, however this would recess the thread engagement between the stud and knob below the top of the lid and maybe get you an extra 1/4" - 3/8" of clearance to the bottom of the hood. Just a thought... I realize that description may have come across as a bit "wordy" - if you can't follow my crazy logic, I'll draw something up, scan it as a .pdf, and attach it to show you what I mean. -Scott

Howdy - I remember having to cut down on the carb stud to almost nothing with my 351C / Edelbrock Performer 4V / Carter AFB to make things fit under the stock hood. So it's only natural that the extra 0.280" deck height on a '69 351W would raise the carb pad ~0.250" all things being equal, causing your issue. I don't know what type of air filter assembly you initially used that attributed to the interference, however you may want to try a drop base filter assembly similar to the one listed on the following K&N site to gain some extra clearance: http://www.knfilters.com/Racing/cuslids.htm Perhaps find a filter base with an even greater drop to help you out as long as it doesn't interfere with the throttle linkage or choke assembly. Running a shorter filter in conjunction with the drop base just might provide the clearance that you're seeking. Also, perhaps instead of using something like a wingnut & stud sticking out, you could use something like a thin knob or knurled piece of stock (think: something easy to turn with your fingers, yet short & package friendly) with a tapped shoulder on the bottom side pointing down towards the carb. Of course you would need to open up the stud hole on the lid to match the od of the shoulder on the bottom of the knob, however this would recess the thread engagement between the stud and knob below the top of the lid and maybe get you an extra 1/4" - 3/8" of clearance to the bottom of the hood. Just a thought... I realize that description may have come across as a bit "wordy" - if you can't follow my crazy logic, I'll draw something up, scan it as a .pdf, and attach it to show you what I mean. -Scott

Thanks for the help - I think you just solved the million dollar question! As it turns out, I just discovered tonight that I have one of each of these - (351W & 351C). It's just not right though - I'm too young to forget about parts that I've picked up over the years... Thanks again for the info. -Scott

Tell you what, whomever buys these can pay me $25 shipped, but they have to donate an additional $10 to this site on my behalf. How does that strike you? -Scott

I don't doubt that the two original designs (351W vs 351C) could possibly interchange, however I'm just trying to identify which one of these it is that I have. Below are the part numbers that I found for the 69 351W and 70 351C via the West Coast Classic Cougar online parts catalog: 351W: C9ZZ-7528-A 351C: D0ZZ-7528-D I'll probably wind up calling them tomorrow to figure out the differences. Thanks again for your help. -Scott

Hello - I'd love to hear some folks chime in with the differences between a 351W and 351C equalizer bar. I know for sure that they are different based on the two different part numbers, but I'm interested to know the physical differences between the two bars for 69/70 Mustangs (and Cougars). Thanks for your help, Scott

Hey Angel, No, I simply don't need these since I have a fastback, but thanks for asking. I'm just trying to clean house (literally) and get rid of stuff that I know I just can't use... -Scott