69RavenConv

Those are tough to find, they aren't reproduced. A set came up on eBay a month or two ago but they weren't any better than the ones i've got. I have eBay set up to email any "69 Mustang convertible" items that get listed, you might try that. The center section is stainless and will polish up with a little elbow grease but the hockey sticks have to be re-chromed. I got an estimate for mine 2 years ago for around US$300. I have to get it done, as I'm almost ready to install them. Price has probably gone up, everything else has...

I found them for $16 bucks at CJ's, most of the Mustang vendors probably have them. http://www.cjponyparts.com/ Enter part number F3931 in the search box and it should come up. I can't get a link to the parts to work...

Machined.

Good to know, I stand corrected!

The gauge, not the cable. A jumpy needle is most likely a problem with the gauge itself. If the wheel size (or speedo gear, etc) were wrong, the speed would be wrong, but not jumpy.

Fastbacks are different, I should have pointed that out. Thanks.

There's been a lot of discussion lately about this popular topic. I happen to possess a full set of both 1969 glue-in glass and 1970 bolt in glass so I got them out tonight to compare. As most of you know, the 1969 glass was glued into the guides and the glue usually failed. In 1970, Ford switched to glass that could be bolted to the guides (actually, they switched in late-1969 production so some '69s got it as well). A lot of '69 restorers switch to the more reliable 1970 glass. The vertical weatherstrip, which was on the front windows in 1969, was moved to the rear windows in 1970. As a result, the 69 and 70 windows are not the same size. The 1970 front windows are about a half inch longer than the 69's. The 1970 back windows are about a half inch shorter than the 69's. When you install the stainless weatherstrip for each model year, they work out to be the same total size. So, if you're thinking about swapping to 1970 glass, you may want to swap all 4 windows to minimize adjustment issues. Otherwise, you're dealing with an extra half-inch of glass to adjust away... I'll try to post some side-by-side pictures this weekend... (p.s. - the 70's rear windows are glued in)

No, I wouldn't think so. The transmission end of the speedometer cable is a gear so there is no room for error on that end. It's probably the gauge. I believe the gauge consists of a wire that rotates around a disk that's connected to the needle. The faster the wire rotates, the more the needle deflects. There may be dirt, dust or corrosion in there. Of course if you've changed your wheel or tire size, rear end gears, or transmission that will mess it up too.

I was happy to vote. Can't let one of those imitation Chevy Mustangs beat a real one...

Ah, I suppose he would have by now. It was obvious my DVD's (purchased 2 years ago) were dubbed from VHS tapes so I assumed the content was rather old. The material covered remains valid though, so I was pleased. Still, the mullet was amusing ...

Kevin Tetz has also got his own website at http://www.paintucation.com I bought a 4-DVD set (Paint, Metal Prep, Color Sanding, Body Shop Basics) and they are really good for amateurs like me. He's got a nice teaching style and pace. Plus he's got a killer mullet.

That's a great, simple idea! I would have never thought of that.

Pak's right, they're just as he described. But, according to Mustang Monthly, you can remove the front weatherstrip from your 69 and attach to the 70 glass and get the "correct" look. Otherwise you need to get all 4 windows when you do the swap, not just the fronts. The 70 regulators are also different (they have a small offset bend) but everything I've read says the 69 regulators work fine with the 70 glass, even without the little bend. I have both sets of glass and will be deciding soon which I'm gonna install (I'm a bit of a purist so I'm leaning toward the glue-ins) and I will try to post some side-by-side pictures soon that maybe we can use as a visual aid whenever this popular topic comes up....

I was just wondering if this would work for this application as well. It sounds like it would work very well, but maybe overkill. The exposed surfaces of my ornament were fine, I just needed to attach the thin sheet metal back plate to the ornament (the part behind the fins, that's painted flat black). So all the "glue" is hidden after it's bolted to the body so I didn't need to worry about looks, sanding, or even being particularly neat about it. At the factory, these were attached after the ornament was painted and were always flat black. Since my car is Raven black, I'm just gonna mask the chrome and shoot it body color.

The epoxy/J-B Weld is the way to go. I sanded both surfaces real clean and clamped the plate in position. The solder wouldn't bond to the steel and just pooled up, and was too soft to hold under stress. Liberal amounts of JB Weld held very well though, so that's the way I went. Thanks for the help, guys, reputation points for both of ya...

It's a Falcon Ute. You know, "Ute", like in My Cousin Vinny. http://www.ford.com.au/servlet/ContentServer?cid=1178876989164&pagename=FOA%2FDFYPage%2FFord-Fullwidth&site=FOA&c=DFYPage

Those choke tubes usually rust off. Your car should run fine without it, the only advantage it gives is it channels extra hot air across the choke to get it to open a little faster. Same reason they route the heater hose over the choke. Without it your choke will theoretically open a little slower. If you want to replace it, the generic tube you found would probably be ok, expecially if you have a tube bender available to tweak it. I run an electric choke on my Holley and it works ok. The only drawback to electric is it's more like timer instead of a thermostat. It slowly opens the choke whenever the ignition is on regardless of engine temp. I gotta believe you could get one for your Edelbrock 4bbl, but I don't know if they make them for the stock Autolites.

If you wire your own, you need to add a "and-ing" logic circuit so it only lights with the brakes and doesn't blink with the turn signals. Other than that, you just splice into both brake light wires in the trunk. I found some cheap at JC Whitney: http://www.jcwhitney.com/Third-Brake-Light/600003037.jcw?in_dim_search=1

This is a long shot, but when i rebuilt my 302, I had the distributor 180 degrees out and the car would actually start and "run" (like crap, but i could keep it running by goosing the throttle). You might want to check #1 TDC position. If you say you're getting a spark, I would think your parts are good and it's a timing problem. It's worth noting that the modern 5.0L firing order is different than the old 302W firing order, so make sure you've got the right firing order as well....

The factory tach is wired in series with the resistor wire going from the ign swiitch to the +coil terminal so it's gets confusing. Here's an old thread that covers a lot of the theory (some of which may be right) :huh: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=5910

No problem - it's not a great picture but I think you get the idea. It's really pretty simple because there's really only one way you can attach it when you look at the way the shifter attaches and the reverse lever. It goes on the back-most of the 3 bolts holding the shifter on. BTW, you can disassemble these and fix them up if it is not too badly corroded. I did mine then sealed it up with some clear silicone.

Yes, it's a backup light switch for a 3-speed manual tranny. It mounts on tail of the tranny, along with the shifter, The other end snakes up the trans tunnel and plugs into the 4-prong connector in the middle of the firewall.The shifter presses the button when it's in reverse, lighting the backup lights. I'm gonna guess a PO just hung it in the engine compartment while during some tranny work and never put it back. Hang on to it, as they don't reproduce it! I looked forever for one and finally had to repair mine. I will take some pictures of mine tonight or tomorrow if you want to see one properly installed.

Thanks, Pak, I wouldn't of thought of solder. I might try solder on one spot and JB-Weld on another and see which I like the best....

Have you tried contacting any of the "Mustang Junkyards" out there? I know the part you are talking about, and I would bet many of the junk 69's out there (70's, too, which would probably work) still have these parts, even the most rotten and picked apart ones. Just a thought. Another thought, any machine shop could easily fabricate these plates, especially if you have one as a model (I don't know if you lost all of them). Take some 1/4" (6 mm) plate steel, drill and tap 3 holes...

Any swap meets in your area?