69RavenConv

I bought a 2-1/4" mandrel bent system off ebay from (I believe) the Mustangs Unlimited guy. It was a good deal, but I wish I had gone 2". The bigger the pipe, the more difficult it is to squeeze them under the reinforcing plate along with the drive shaft. Routing them underneath the plate will cause ground clearance issues. Leaving the plate off is not an option. Now, I know a creative guy can make any size system work, but it comes down to how much effort you want to spend. My suggestion is don't go any bigger than you really need. Other than that, I picked up the repro dual exhaust hanger kit for a 69 and it worked good (once I figured out how to install it :huh:). And a dual exhaust valance.

The Autometer tach is a really nice tach (I used to work for Sunpro) but it's really targetted at drag racers. That's why it's big. The best place is on the column or atop the dash, neither of which is good on a '69 stang, unless it's at the strip. If you're building a driver, I'd really consider going with a 2.5"-3" tach without the shift light. Then you could strap it on the column and still see your gauges. Just my 2c

It resembles a Mustang mirror but that base doesn't look like a Ford. Pontiac had a similar mirror, probably other GM, Chrysler and AMC cars did as well. The part number is definitely not Ford. Maybe post the part number to some other muscle car forums to see if anyone knows?

That is pretty cool but I still like the classics better. http://www.amphicars.com/acfaq.htm

Are you sure that's mounted right? The handle should be horizontal, not vertical. It looks rotated 90 degrees?

Love that photo, are those Keystone rims? And what's a Plymouth??

The pink wire is the resitor wire to the coil and you want to keep that if you're running a stock (6V) coil. For the turn signals, make sure you've got a good ground at the bulbs, especially in the trunk. I believe there is a ground wire that comes off each bulb socket that screws to the trunk floor near the filler neck. Without a good ground, I've seen the turn signals act squirrelly.

Wow, good one (or bad one for you, actually). IN theory, it works like this; the car supplies 12V, the CVR (or converter) knocks it down to 5V. The 5V flows thru the gauge, thru the harness, thru the sender, and finally to ground (chassis). The senders are just variable resistance devices the affect the flow of current. The amount of current flowing affects how far the gauge deflects. As long a s the flow is there, you should get results. So, a couple of thoughts. Are you sure the 12V is getting to the PC board? You say it measures good in the connector, but maybe the connector is not making when you plug it in? Is the converter you installed capable of supplying ~2 amps of current? These old gauges are brute force and take a lot of juice. All modern converters limit the current when overloaded, usually by dropping the output voltage (thus dropping the output current too). If the overload level of your converter is rated too low, it will cut out and fold back under (what should be) normal operation. Hmm, this is a long long shot but do you have a good ground at all the senders? Engine block and chassis (fuel tank) connected to battery ground? Finally, have you tried disconnecting all senders but one (one at a time)? Maybe you have one bad sender circuit that's collapsing the power to all 3? Look for a short in a wire to one of the senders. This would kill the 5V and kill all 3 gauges with it. As a last resort, maybe pick up a new cluster at a swap meet? If it works, the cluster/converter was the problem; if it still fails, its a bad wire or sender. Keep us posted, there are others who have electrical problems out there.

Here's an interesting homebrew setup on a V8-powered MG. This is cowl induction, but it looks like the same idea could be adapted to a hood scoop. If you could get a good tight seal to the underside of the hood, that is. (Not something I would try, but interesting) http://www.britishv8.org/MG/EdGreene.htm

The easiest way would probably be swap in a 1970 setup; at least the harness and maybe the switch(?) You'd have to find a 5-1/4" hi/lo bulb to fit the smaller 69 bucket. I agree with Mike65, though, stick with the 4 lights and go with a hood scoop for fresh air.:shifty:

I'm running the original stock distributor with the Pertronix module (I like the original appearance). I assume it's got the cast iron gear which sounds like a no-no. Does this one look like what I need?? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-29418PD/

I did the roller conversion to my 302 and I need to swap my dizzy gear too (Comp Cams tech support said I didn't need to but I think he was confused). How delicate are those bronze gears? I keep reading that they wear out too fast. Now they have carbon composite versions but they are over $100!!! And I thought $40 for a little bronze gear was outrageous! My car is not high performance, a 300 hp cruiser that I'll probably drive 1,000 miles a year, so I figure bronze should last many years, no?

Probably any name-brand primer will tide you over for a while, but you'd want to sand it off again before you apply good epoxy primer later. Why do you say the blaster is too powerful for paint? Doesn't it have (or couldn't you attach) a regulator to reduce the pressure, suitable for a primer gun? Also keep in mind paints react badly to soda; I'm told you have to wash or sand *all* the residue away or risk paint problems later.

Thanks, I'll track some down!

Whose dye did you use? I, too, have a maroon interior and I used a rattle can that the Mustang vendors sell on a steering wheel pad and wasn't real pleased with the results. I was planning on going to a paint jobber and seeing what they can mix up.

I brought the car home with 5 large totes full of pieces and one trashbag with all of the wiring harnesses in it (none are labeled). Geez, why do people still do that??? Welcome to the site! The folks here are real experts and pretty darn friendly too. Looking forward to watching the reconstruction :001_smile:

Wow, a California survivor car, I hope it finds a good home. (Interior's probably not leather, btw)

The fact that they are returning your calls should give you some hope. True deadbeats ignore you or disappear altogether. I would stop the e-mails and use the phone. I would politely but firmly ask what the reason for the delay is. It may be a reasonable (or at least understandable). Plus, if you're polite up front, they'll be more inclined to work it out. If they still dodge the issue, then get aggressive. My 2 cents...

Thanks to all who chimed in to help. By grinding away a bit of the flange, hammering a deeper recess, bending down the valance bracket, and curling the edge of the valance, I was able to achieve a pretty nice fit.

Nothing amazing, but authentic nostalgia... http://blog.virginiaclassicmustang.com/2009/10/another-vintage-tv-commercial-1969.html

Great slide show and really nice body work there. Unfortunately my repop quarters are lacking the recess shown in Cruzzar's picture, so it's the mounting bracket on the valance that is causing the gap. I need to figure out how to create the recess (or modify the mount) to make it work.

Congratulations, I know the feeling well! When we bought our house 8 years ago, the 3-car detached garage was a huge clincher for me. We bought the house from a finish carpenter contractor who built it for his business stuff. Insulation and heat is a great idea and a good place to start while it's still empty. I have full wall and attic insulation, double pane windows and a wall-mount natural gas furnace. Natural gas is a great option if you can do it because there's no fuss. Wall mount is up and out of the way. And when you live in PA or Ohio like we do, you really need quality heat in the winter. A compressor would be my next choice. I have a Sears run-of-the-mill and I just plumbed my garage with the RapidAire nylon tube system (not PVC) and some filter/regulators from Harbor Freight. I like it real well for my amateur stuff but you can go with copper or black pipe if you can spend the money. After that, get shelves and workbenches, otherwise stuff piles up on the floor. Always remember the "Law of Garages"; junk always expands to fill the available space.

I'm bumping this thread because I'm facing the same issue. Test fitting both my original NOS valance and my repro dual exhaust valance shows the same problem with the lack of a recess for the bracket. I'm thinking my choices are; hammer a recess into the quarter, or cut a hole in the quarter for the bracket (and get creative to bolt it together). Anybody successfully deal with this one?

Can't you just replace the headlight switch with a 1970 model?? I understand the 1970 parking lights stay on and the difference is in the switch itself. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong...

Eastwood now sells their Rust Encapsulator (their answer to POR-15) in 16 oz aerosol cans. Or you could get a can of spray-on rubberized undercoating at the local auto parts store. Probably any good primer would work, as long as you're otherwise keeping the area dry and salt-free, I would think (not being any kind of expert)