Moteaux

They even have a butt dyno.... now you can get accurate seat of the pants hp/tq numbers and not have to guess anymore.

This is what I was needing. Been needing to the high beams on my car.

Jim, I thought I had replied and posted, but I guess not. I am extremely happy with mine still. It took less than an hour to install and I definitely feel safer with them installed vs. the stock belts. I am in Denton right now, but will be home for the day on Sunday. Maybe I can take some pics then. I would install them again, no question for my purposes.

All the information here is good and good things to check or recheck. If you are having trouble during a load or acceleration, this may be due to a vacuum leak, but it can also be caused by a weak or inoperative accelerator pump in a carburetor, as well as ignition problems such as a cracked coil, worn spark plugs or incorrectly gapped plugs. I know you have covered some of these things, but dont hesitate to recheck and possibly investigate vaccum. Un-metered air entering could be causing you a lean mis-fire. My .02. Hope you get it sorted.

I think you may be looking for something like this start line ratio. http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/startlineratio.html http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/calculators.html http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/gear_calculator.html Just remember, as the web page says, to take in to account your tire diameter to figure in with the overall equation. The gear calculator link uses your tire size, gear ratios and such and also aids in predicting your SLR (start line ratio) If you look around at the rest of the calculators for gears and transmissions there, you can find some good useful info.

And from my earlier post this in much more in depth of what I was saying. Average Joe putting in a cam and hi-rise is not going to be going through most of the carb tuning and actually matching components, although it is getting easier these days with the top-end kits available. In most cases for the average person thinking that just putting a larger carb on will automatically give better results often can deter performance for all the reasons you mentioned. Where if staying at a relatively lower (and yes, arbitrary number) that I suggested will not exacerbate the issues that could come from this. Then there is the whole set of opinions on what is really a streetable engine and that whole can of worms....

And from my earlier post this in much more in depth of what I was saying. Average Joe putting in a cam and hi-rise is not going to be going through most of the carb tuning and actually matching components, although it is getting easier these days with the top-end kits available. In most cases for the average person thinking that just putting a larger carb on will automatically give better results often can deter performance for all the reasons you mentioned. Where if staying at a relatively lower (and yes, arbitrary number) that I suggested will not exacerbate the issues that could come from this. Then there is the whole set of opinions on what is really a streetable engine and that whole can of worms....

Yep, the debate has been around as longer as their were choices. Without going deeper, my experience for street cars has been better with vac seconds. The biggest mistake it seems most people make is to over carb for the street. Again IMO, rarely does TRUE street engine need over 650-750 cfm. But getting older and lazier, now am on to fuel injection which opens up arguments over which to use.:whistling: I went EZ-EFI to follow my KISS principles (Keep It Simple Stupid). Like I said, I am getting lazier and like to fuss less... just want to drive and enjoy.

Yep, the debate has been around as longer as their were choices. Without going deeper, my experience for street cars has been better with vac seconds. The biggest mistake it seems most people make is to over carb for the street. Again IMO, rarely does TRUE street engine need over 650-750 cfm. But getting older and lazier, now am on to fuel injection which opens up arguments over which to use.:whistling: I went EZ-EFI to follow my KISS principles (Keep It Simple Stupid). Like I said, I am getting lazier and like to fuss less... just want to drive and enjoy.

I agree with you. The small hundredths, extra fuel used by mechanical secondary carb vs. vacuum secondary not worth it for street driven car. Most of the magazines use mechanical secondary carbs when getting dyno numbers as they will produce better peak numbers, but if you ask most any knowledgeable builder who will try to give you a real world street motor, they will most likely recommend a vacuum secondary car for drivability as the mechanical secondary advantages or mostly only met in a track situation.

I agree with you. The small hundredths, extra fuel used by mechanical secondary carb vs. vacuum secondary not worth it for street driven car. Most of the magazines use mechanical secondary carbs when getting dyno numbers as they will produce better peak numbers, but if you ask most any knowledgeable builder who will try to give you a real world street motor, they will most likely recommend a vacuum secondary car for drivability as the mechanical secondary advantages or mostly only met in a track situation.

Agreed, even though I went the EFI route my original build was similar to yours for the same reasons. Not to hijack... but my 770 Avenger Vac Secondary carb is in the classified section. :)

Agreed, even though I went the EFI route my original build was similar to yours for the same reasons. Not to hijack... but my 770 Avenger Vac Secondary carb is in the classified section. :)

Agreed, even though I went the EFI route my original build was similar to yours for the same reasons. Not to hijack... but my 770 Avenger Vac Secondary carb is in the classified section. :)

A brand new carb, in the box, never installed. This is a vacuum secondary carb with electric choke. Will include black anodized Summit dual fuel inlet with carb sale ($59 @ Summit). Carburetor is completely new and fuel inlet only used briefly. Just trying to sorta break-even. There is a pic attached of the identical carburetor and the exact fuel inlet. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-81770/ $357.00 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220100B/ $59.00 Asking $375 + $15.00shipping anywhere in the lower 48.