ETstang

I'll add my vote for the Autosound - it's got the look and all the new gizmos I have a '69 vert also - consider a couple of speakers in the rear seat side panels Or maybe a 250 lb. boomer in the trunk to really turn off everyone :-)

I'll add my vote for the Autosound - it's got the look and all the new gizmos I have a '69 vert also - consider a couple of speakers in the rear seat side panels Or maybe a 250 lb. boomer in the trunk to really turn off everyone :-)

The yellow/orange one (kind dirty) under the floor mat - Is that the fuel gauge wire that runs allllllll the way up to the front and to the fuel gauge? Still having problems with gauges not working - want to cut that one an check continuity - I do have good continuity from the Oil pressure and Temp sending units I can now take my whole dash apart in my sleep ugh Thx Dick

The yellow/orange one (kind dirty) under the floor mat - Is that the fuel gauge wire that runs allllllll the way up to the front and to the fuel gauge? Still having problems with gauges not working - want to cut that one an check continuity - I do have good continuity from the Oil pressure and Temp sending units I can now take my whole dash apart in my sleep ugh Thx Dick

Ashlee You should give some thought to adding Relays for those halogen headlights That's a lot of power going through your switch on old wires Fire starter :-( Dick

Ashlee You should give some thought to adding Relays for those halogen headlights That's a lot of power going through your switch on old wires Fire starter :-( Dick

Ashlee You should give some thought to adding Relays for those halogen headlights That's a lot of power going through your switch on old wires Fire starter :-( Dick

So it takes 4 of them to move a car, I assume :-) Unless you have a tricycle.................

Got my work cut out for me - really great responses - thank you all. Couple of points - the gauges are fine and not grounding (although I like "flight 96"'s idea of the rubber mounts) - I can apply current to each one and get the needle to move appropriately. The whole dash assembly does get grounded when it is installed - it uses the mounting screws to be sure there is a good ground to the metal dash framework. And my Dc/Dc converter is properly providing 5 volts to each gauge. This is leading me more and more to the cluster connector that "plugs-in" to the back of the flexible pc circuit board. Gonna try a temp. wire-around to see if that might be it. Thanks again guys - that's part of what makes this Forum really great and fun. Dick :-)

Well - it's going on 3 months and no solution to the inoperable gauges - Temp, Oil & Fuel. I have gone through the whole explanation and testing from the http://1970mgr.org site. I have a new PC board (film) I have replaced the CVR with a DC/DC Converter for 5 volts (the tachman didn't work). I have checked continuity on all the gauges - and none are Grounded. I do have proper continuity from the PC board connection point (where the cluster connector plugs in) all the way through the converter to the gauges. I do have proper continuity from the PC board connection point (where the cluster connector plugs in) from each gauge sending unit to each of the gauge posts. Using an external power supply, when I apply 4.5 volts to each gauge, I get the gauge to move properly - as if the sending unit was sending the current. In other words, on the bench it all looks and act like it is supposed to. So I go the cluster connector and check for voltage on Pin #11 - the one that feeds the CVR - turn on the ignition and I get 12 volts. I plug it all in - screw it down for grounds and turn on the ignition - No gauge activity I really would prefer to stay stock with the car - it is one of a kind - but???? Do I throw 'em all out and go for direct mechanical gauges Solutions Guys, PLEASE Thx Dick

Bump

:helpsmilie:Well - i thought I was was being nice and neat when I bought an inexpensive tall plastic cabinet and loaded it up with my spray cans, Eastwood and POR 15 supplies. Looks like an expensive replacement order is called for. The cans rusted all along the metal edges and are now a gritty mess with accompanied leaks. Do all these chemicals need to be stored in open air - on open shelves?? I have a heated garage so winter storage is not a problem with freezing - but this summer really made a mess of my inventory- Did I creat this mess by locking everything up in a closed environment? Comments please

Checking my references on the correct Ford Blue to use. I have a note that the Engine Ford Blue is a Ditzler #13352 And the Air cleaner.snorkel, valve covers, etc (when painted) are Diztler # 13358. I believe this applies to almost all Fords in the 60's ??? Can I get some confirmation or discussion Thx Dick

Hey Black69 - Pic is worth a thousand words :-) Thx

The pix of the light switch are great but what wire gets moved where? And Ashlee - your diagram is fine but can't read the instructions on the edge of the pix