ND69

Check out Viginia Mustangs, http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/EXHAUST-PARTS-C3070.aspx?s=Name ASC&p=1 Maybe use: EH24L, EH24R, for the mufflers, and EH29L, EH29R, EH27,EH281, for the rear

Check under the back seat my 69 had two factory dimples in the correct location

I have also been looking at the seq led tail lights but was wandering what happens to front indicators? Do the rear seq effect the front or do you have to change the lamps tp led's as well?

A sample of the mustangs on show in Aussie.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wo-KvhsLI4 enjoy

I had the original single pipe and changed to shorty header through the 2.5" SS magnaflow X system, it freed up lots of HP and sounds great. I eliminated most of the 2K drone by fitting SS hose clamps to the straight sections of pipe to change the "tune". My next change is to swap the turn downs for the twin extensions with a 45 cut.. I like the system, feather the gas and it's tame and relative quiet, mash it and it's a wild beast..

Excellent workmanship, If your need a strong magnet get one out of a computer hard drive, some have mounting holes which would could be used to attach your fuse box to... They also make great clamps.

Nice choice, they set the picture..:thumbup1:

25.4mm to the inch,,, or http://curezone.com/conversions_length.asp

Nice ride jimmystang, what area are you in? I am sure Dic's or Jaycar sell grommets

I fitted a 2.5" dual system to my 69sportsroof and used these brackets from Virginia Mustang:- EH29L Eh117R, EH27 x 2, EH281 x 2 ,the coach headed bolts were purchased from the local bolt shop, and heavy duty stainless hoses clamps to attach the bracket to the tail pipe, these brackets bolted to factory holes in the chassis just in front of the rear shackles, (these can be adjusted up or down to suit) and I used these for the muffler sopports:- EH661 x 2 .( the magnaflow system I used bolted right up the these. Very tidy setup sorry no pic's as yet Cheers

Turn on your hazzad lights and remove the can that you replaced if they still work you replaced the correct one.. if they still don't work check your lamps and earth connections Good luck

I had this issue when I replaced my blown lamps, Remove the cluster disconnect the speedo but leave the loomed plug in, carefull remove the non working lamp and swap it with a working one, if the lamp works its either a bad lamp holder the little tabs are very weak, If the "good" lamp does not work the pc connection could be dirty or a poor connection, clean the tabs and carefully raise them a little caution the can break off, lucky I had spares. Also check the non working lamp in a "working" socket could be a faulty lamp The Updated Voltage and LED's will be on my list when i next pull my cluster, top upgrade.. What color did you get, Let us know end result is like.. Hope this is helpfull Cheers

Have you tied removing the speedo grommet at the firewall, this worked for me, freed enough cable to allow the cluster to move forward, Cheers

The one on the right is for the seatbelt warning light, Check ebay their are some for sale at present, The other one I have not seen before!..

I have the magnaflow 2.5" x crossover SS system sitting ready to install on my 351W, Does anyone have a sketch/drawing/measurements of the drivers side original mounting position. My car still has the original factory single pipe system. This thread has inspired me to move along and get this system installed.

Cruzzer, Great work with the remote......I had a set of bonnet mounted sports mirrors in my younger years which indicator lamps mounted inside of them behind a louvre which worked great, they manual adjust only I managed to get hold of the nutsert with a pair of long nosed pliers and with a bit of effort and not too much pain or lost skin, removed the front screw, and removed the mirror control unit and cables in one piece. I,ve cleaned up the mirror bases and dropped them into the glass cutter today, The pass side nutserts have been overtightened and mushroomed outwards, (now I know why the mirror was loose) . Is there any way that this can be fixed without drilling out the nutsert straighening the panel and installing a new nutsert? Are these nutsert still sold?

Thanks for the input yes, it was just for a mirror glass replacement at this stage, however I do want to remove the mirror and housing later when I paint, The hassle late last night was the front screw would turn but not come out so t tried to remove just the mirror... It's hard to find a company to cut and shape replacemt mirror glass, I did see one set on ebay once, should have bought them, spares always come in handy I will try and coax the front screw out tomorrow

:helpsmilie:How do I removal the drivers remote mirror, the control cables seem to be crimped into the inside controller, as this is diecast I don,t want to prise the slots open and break it. Any tips would be great. Cheers

Great work, Did you use the negative wedge kit in the upper ball joint? I have been thinking of doing this to mine.. 69 sportsroof, needs work but rather drive it..