jimmystang

Just to get the car a short way up the road hot wire it temporarily. Run a wire from the + battery to the + coil. This will not do any harm. Get the car out of there and than disconnect it. You may have a starting issue though. The reason the wires got hot was when the key was on is because the points were also closed so current was constantly running through the coil. The coil would have got real hot. Therefore I suspect the points may also be burnt. If so give them a quick file to get you on the road.

The ram seals are easy to do.

When this happens the belt sits too deeply in the pulley and contacts the bottom of the groove. You will never stop it slipping if this is your problem. Foothill is correct, use a lever bar and go steady.

I took my new sender out and ran a temporary wire back to the drivers seat and watched the gauge in the full & empty positions. Even my new repro sender would not read higher than 3/4. Repro stuf is sh*t sometimes. The comprimise was to accept that 3/4 is full and I was careful to make sure the sender & gauge read empty together. That way I can run it right down & know when I will run out. The problem is the sender, being a reostat does not have enough travel to equal the gauges travel.

and the solinoid down low near the starter. From the battery side of the solinoid I wired a 20a circuit breaker which powers most things I need. It is all neat & out of view pretty much.

Remove the ball joint and check the nut goes freely to the bottom of it's thread.

Is the roof caved in? Maybe...bit hard to tell...That could be expensive...

Make sure the belt is not bottoming out in the vee of the pulley. It will always slip if it is.

As a Mechanic I would not adjust ignition timing by ear on a standard engine. Set everything to the manufacturers specs. Also if the car breaks down under load look toward the high tension side, things like leads, plugs dist cap, coil & rotor. Stop guessing and start from the start. Correct diagnosis is important.

the major reciprocating mass out of balance. (fly wheel, clutch & pressure plate, crank & damper.) By depressing the clutch this stops the clutch plate spinning. I would remove the pressure plate and test run it to discount that. Then it's The harmonic balancer on the front of the crankshaft. Hopefully it isn't the crank. Do you know it's history? Removing the belts is a good idea but I doubt it will be any accessories doing it. It's not uncommon for vibrations to appear at different rev ranges like yours is doing.

I tested my 1970 Mach 1 dash with a multimeter. I tested for continuity using the ohm meter. You could put 12 volts to the dash but it can be dangerous in case of an accidental short which could cook the printed circuit. You'll need a wiring diagram to know where the power enters the PC. From there just trace the printed circuit of each gauge to where it exits the dash. You should have continuity on all circuits. The lights are on a different circuit and earth back through the car and not through the main plug on the back of the gauges. You could put 12 v to each gauge through it's posts and directly to earth. This would make each gauge peg out to it's maximum. Don't do this gauge test with the amp meter. Care must be taken doing any of these tests.

If you have a module you must check the coil voltage whilst running. Unilites don't like more than 9 volts. It doesn't sound like fuel if it stops dead like that.

It was very expensive and freight to Austraila was a killer. The result is impressive although I really don't have anything to compare it with as I never drove the car without it. There is no "drone" or any vibration that I can hear. Next time I would use cheaper deadening squares from the local panel shop at a tenth of the price.

It was very expensive and freight to Austraila was a killer. The result is impressive although I really don't have anything to compare it with as I never drove the car without it. There is no "drone" or any vibration that I can hear. Next time I would use cheaper deadening squares from the local panel shop at a tenth of the price.

You can do as relic says and still not fix your problem. A lot of people throw parts at cars when it may not be necessary. You should definitely earth out your fuel sender wire, your temp sender wire and the oil pressure wire first. See what that tells you, as it is important to go the easiest option first. If the gauges do nothing then it is time to remove the cluster. Then firstly check for a power feed to the cluster. After that is confirmed then test your CVR and the printed circuit. Thest things are very easy to test with an Ohm meter & test light. Good luck.