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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/01/2022 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    New guy with a lot of questions!

    You can't go wrong with National Part Depot, and Virginia Mustang gets a lot of kudos. CJ often gets negative comments. Summit and Jegs can be ok.
  2. 1 point
    RPM

    New guy with a lot of questions!

    Welcome Josh. Mach1 Driver gave you spot on info that you can't go wrong with. As far as motors go, I wouldn't go any higher compression than 9.5ish with iron heads or 10.2 with aluminum. Pics! We love to see pics.
  3. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Tail Light Panel Observation

    If you shift it over to match sides it will throw off the tail lights ,i would make sure the lights are same side to side and not worry about that
  4. 1 point
    Brian Conway

    Tail Light Panel Observation

    Ditto what Bob said. Pay attention to your body lines. Couple pictures of what my car looks like. Brian
  5. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    New guy with a lot of questions!

    Welcome, and we would love to help you spend your money. As you probably know, the suspension on our cars is from a Falcon, but with the right tweaks you can make it feel like a new car without breaking the bank. Everyone will have their own opinions, but I would do the following: 1. Definitely do the Shelby/Arning drop- the most it can cost is the price of a drill template. It only drops the front about 5/8" but will really make a difference in handling. 2. Stock style upper and lower control arms, and if you can afford it go with a spherical bearing on the lower. Watch the Open Tracker Racing video, or check Street or Track- they are good people that won't try to over sell you. Just tell them what you want the car to do. 3. Roller spring perches will do wonders to free-up the front suspension. I would do the single, not the double roller perch- see the OTR video. 4. Adjustable strut rods. The video will show you how the stock struts behave with all that flexing and forward/back motion. I didn't include it but there is another video showing the improvement which eliminated all that. Multiple vendors make these, here is one: https://streetortrack.com/street-or-track-adjustable-strut-rods 5. Coil and leaf springs- see the Eaton video by Jeff Ford 6. I would go with QA1 or Viking hydraulic shocks (not gas shocks)- also discussed in the Eaton and OTR Videos. You may want to get the Boss 302 Chassis Modification booklet. It talks about the Arning drop and lots of other mods that are just for racing (not my thing). The shock towers tend to bend inward, so you'll need an export brace, something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz16a052e#overview. Many people also put in a Monte Carlo bar that goes from side to side, just in front of the shock towers, but I don't think you need it with the export brace and weld-in kits mentioned below. And the weld-in kit will keep your towers from stress cracking: https://opentrackerracing.com/product/shock-tower-repair-reinforcement-kit-1967-1970/ There are several videos by Eaton discussing springs and shocks- here is one:
  6. 1 point
    Brian Conway

    69 parking brake schematic

    You will need this bracket ?


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