Fitech reviews?

[1969Fstback 58]

I've read a lot of posts here, but wonder if anyone here has been running them for awhile?

 

Any do's, don'ts, if I did it over I'd do this instead?

 

I am thinking of changing over to fitech in the spring. Just looking for real world reviews.

[bryonbush 85]

lots of guys on VMF run them. There's a guy up north of me who's been running the power adder with a turbo and says he loves it. Im really looking into this but reviews of the Sniper have been coming out as well. some have done a direct comparison between the two and the holey seems to have a leg up. I wrote Holley inquiring about being boost compatible. they said it is currently but till need to have their "super sniper" program for it to work.

 

i think by this summer we'll start seeing some good tests between the two. 

[1969Fstback 58]

Mine has the close to stock original 302. I have no plans at all of trying to add alot of power or boost. So, the up to 400 hp version would work fine for me. Just looking for better get in turn key and go.

[Shep69 149]

I love my FiTech . One of the better upgrades I've done. Only thing I found is there is no instructions on fine tuning in the box but a quick search on the net fixed that . The only issue I had when I first put it on I didn't put one of the wires directly to the positive terminal of the battery. I put it on the solinoid and the hand held screen kept going out. My fault as it states to go to the terminal. I have heard that there was a few issues with some of the water temp senders but that's been fixed. For me their customer service has been great. Any questions were quickly answered. No complaints from me. Holley has just copied FiTech so there sniper setup should be fine as well. I know FiTech had some issues with the command centre fuel system but I went with a in tank pump setup .

[SM69Mach 68]

Same as Shep here,  Love my FiTech. 

 

I used their external fuel pump as I did not want to pull the truck all apart for a new tank if I could get what I had to work.  So far it has been great.  I agree with the lack of instruction on fine tuning, but the are some good threads out there with people willing to help, best one I found so far was on a chevelle forum, will try to find the link again and post it for any one interested.  I did have a problem with my temp sensor, but replaced it with the a new one and works fine now.  Good thing is they use GM sensors so its easy to get a hold of one.  Computer is still learning driving habits and the more I drive it the better it gets.  Not sure what your set up is, but in what I have read guys have had issues with larger cams and low vacuum and getting the unit to idle correctly out of the box.  They are getting it figured out with manual tuning, but its not a straight out of the box plug it in a run.  They still seem to be having issues with their Command Center fuel sump set up.  From what I have read the pumps are over heating and burning up.  There was talk of FiTech using a different pump to help, but not sure if that has been resolved or not.  Lot of guys are going with sumped tanks as it is much quieter than an external pump.

 

Good luck and to me, one of my favorite upgrades.  

[Shep69 149]

Some tips on fine tuning. Got this from the dark side.

Here are some basic setup instructions that we find are the most common.
 

Resetting to a stock calibration:
From the main menu go to the very bottom and select Write Cal To ECU. Once in this menu scroll down to the second to last selection, it should say Default v8 T195. Once on this file select it and it will download to 100 percent. After this is done it will revert to the main menu. Now go to Go EFI Initial Setup, then Engine Setup, now input all of the parameters that are needed for your application, making sure to save each one individually.
After you have entered your information and saved it go up and select Dash Board. Once in dashboard turn the ignition key off and wait for all the data to black out. Once this happens turn the ignition key to the on positon and start the car.

 

 

IAC Steps:
Turn the driver’s side throttle adjustment screw IN (clockwise) half a turn to start with, with that done turn the key on and go to dashboard and find TPS and make sure it reads zero. If not, then shut the key off and wait for the numbers to go black then turn the key on again. Once that reads zero start the vehicle and find IAC Steps on dashboard. This number needs to be within 3-10 at warm idle. If the number reads zero then slowly turn the screw OUT (counter clockwise) until the IAC steps reads between 3-10. If the number is above 10 then shut the vehicle off and turn the screw IN as stated above and repeat the process until the IAC steps are between 3-10.

 

Reset Learn:
All Fitech EFI systems have learning procedures that the system uses to adjust the active fuel tables it is using for operation. Sometimes if there are outside problems such as bad misfires, exhaust leaks, or any other situation that could cause poor readings on the O2 sensor, the system will try to compensate in order to keep the car running. If this happens it alters the fuel map in ways that may not be optimal for proper running the engine normally.
To reset the learn is a very easy procedure. Go into the Go EFI Initial setup then find Reset Learn. Once in that menu find Reset All Learn, highlight this and push right on the joy stick to go to #1, then save that to the ECU by pressing IN on the joystick. Once that is saved go back to the main menu, and then up to Dashboard and select it. Once on dashboard turn the key off and wait for the numbers in the value side to go black. This mean the system has saved. You have now reset the learn function.

 

 

Idle Return:
If the engine is not returning to idle quick enough for your liking or is dropping too quickly and killing the engine then you may need to adjust the rate at which the injection system comes to an idle. To do so you need to go to Go EFI Tuning, then find and select Idle Control. Once in this menu you will see several settings, the only one we are going to work with is Decel open IAC. This number should be at zero as a base setting, by going negative you are reducing the amount of time it takes to return to Idle, and by going positive you are increasing the time it takes. Normal procedure of adjustment is to add or subtract 10 to start with and then adjust it to your liking or what the engine needs. Then once the setting is input save it to the ecu by pushing the joystick IN, the handheld will show Send To ECU Successful. Once this is done make sure to go back to the dashboard and turn the key off until the numbers clear out on the value side. This shows that the system has saved.

 

AFR Target Adjustment:
AFR: Air Fuel Ratio. Some vehicles may have greater needs for fueling that the self-learn may not be able to adjust in a great enough amount to operate correctly right out of the box. The injection unit is always trying to maintain a targeted AFR throughout its operation. It is either adding or taking away fuel at any given time from its current fuel table in order to do this. The AFR target is what the computer is constantly adjusting for (the higher the number the more lean the mixture, the lower the number the more rich the mixture is), but some engines need different fueling depending on the CID and cam they have. To adjust these numbers you must go to our Go EFI Tuning menu then to AFR targets, typically adjusting any AFR target should be done .01 at a time either up or down as the AFR has drastic effects on how the engine runs
Once in this menu you will see 10 settings you can adjust. Number 1 is for Idle AFR which can range from 13.4 to 14.7 on average depending on the engine. Adjusting this setting will help idle quality and takeoff from an idle. The 1100, 3000, 6000 at 45kpa cruise are your cruising AFR ratios, these can vary from 13.8 to 14.7 on average depending on the engines needs and your desired fuel economy. The cruise AFR only effects cruise so it will not affect your acceleration or other AFR settings. WOT 1100, 3000, 6000 are your acceleration enrichment settings and are used for adjusting the desired fueling for accelerating under either part throttle or WOT. The average for these settings only ranges from 12.4 to 12.7, any accelerator needs beyond that will require one of our technicians to go over with you. Boost 1100, 3000, 6000 180kpa should stay within 11.5 to 11.7 on most engines with boost, any further adjustments to your boosted AFR settings should be brought up with one of our technicians.

 

Cranking fuel adjustments:

With the key on go to the Go EFI Tuning menu, find Crank and Warm up. There you will see three cranking fuel selections. For cold starts add or subtract fuel from Crank fuel 65f, for hot starts add or subtract fuel from crank fuel 170f. Changing these settings should help with your start up issues along with setting the IAC. A good starting point is to change the settings in intervals of 10 to find which way you need to adjust the system to work better.
 

Accel pump/ Fast Accel adjustment:
If the system is having a hesitation or bogging issue, and you IAC steps are between 3-10 at warm idle, then your next step would be to adjust the accel pump function to increase or decrease the fuel added on acceleration. To start with turn the key to the on position and then find Go EFI Tuning on the main menu and press enter. Then find Accel pump and press enter. You will see a menu with multiple different settings, you need to focus on the Accel pumps (20f, 65f, 170f) and Fast Accel (20f, 65f, 170f). These setting adjust how much fuel, at varying temperatures, the system injects when you accelerate. Accel pump is used for any normal throttle input, Fast Accel is for any fast throttle inputs or Wide Open Throttle.

Hesitation: If the vehicle has a hesitation (when you step on the throttle and the engine does hangs and/ or almost dies and then suddenly take off) this normally is a lack of fuel so you would fix this by increasing the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue to reside in.

Bogging/engine loads up/slow to respond: If the vehicle is bogging (when you step on the throttle and the engine is slower/sluggish to come up to a higher rpm) this is normally caused by over fueling. To fix this you would need to reduce the amount of fuel it is injecting as an accel pump shot. To do this this decrease the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue to reside in.

 

Choosing a cam selection:
Cam selection is based on vacuum load of the engine. Cam 1 is for 15Hg or above, Cam 2 is for 10Hg to 15hg, Cam 3 is 8Hg to 10Hg, Cam 4 is 8Hg to 6Hg. These are estimates and you may need to switch between them if the vacuum load is between two different cam settings to get the engine to run better for your application.




 

 

[1969Fstback 58]

Same as Shep here,  Love my FiTech. 

 

I used their external fuel pump as I did not want to pull the truck all apart for a new tank if I could get what I had to work.  So far it has been great.  I agree with the lack of instruction on fine tuning, but the are some good threads out there with people willing to help, best one I found so far was on a chevelle forum, will try to find the link again and post it for any one interested.  I did have a problem with my temp sensor, but replaced it with the a new one and works fine now.  Good thing is they use GM sensors so its easy to get a hold of one.  Computer is still learning driving habits and the more I drive it the better it gets.  Not sure what your set up is, but in what I have read guys have had issues with larger cams and low vacuum and getting the unit to idle correctly out of the box.  They are getting it figured out with manual tuning, but its not a straight out of the box plug it in a run.  They still seem to be having issues with their Command Center fuel sump set up.  From what I have read the pumps are over heating and burning up.  There was talk of FiTech using a different pump to help, but not sure if that has been resolved or not.  Lot of guys are going with sumped tanks as it is much quieter than an external pump.

 

Good luck and to me, one of my favorite upgrades.  

 

 

When you say external fuel pump, is that the inline or the command center?  If you used the inline, do you need to run a return line back to the tank or does the internal fuel pressure regulator in the throttle body make it where you don't need one?

[MikeStang 247]

If I recall you have to have a return line if you use an external.

I do think I read something somewhere about one of the new systems that did not require a return line with inline pump tho.

[SM69Mach 68]

Hey great questions and sorry should have clarified. 

 

I am running the FiTech external inline pump.  I used their lines for the supply side and used the original supply line as the return line.  I had a drain plug in the tank and just used that fitting for the return line back to the tank.  I think I have seen where you don't have to run a return line, but I think that is where some of the problems come in.  A lot of pumps are meant to run all the time and the on and off is what can wear them out.  

 

When i first ran the car, the FP sounded loud, but as I have driven the car more it seems to have quieted some.  It is not really any louder than my electric fan.  

[1969Fstback 58]

Hey great questions and sorry should have clarified. 

 

I am running the FiTech external inline pump.  I used their lines for the supply side and used the original supply line as the return line.  I had a drain plug in the tank and just used that fitting for the return line back to the tank.  I think I have seen where you don't have to run a return line, but I think that is where some of the problems come in.  A lot of pumps are meant to run all the time and the on and off is what can wear them out.  

 

When i first ran the car, the FP sounded loud, but as I have driven the car more it seems to have quieted some.  It is not really any louder than my electric fan.  

Mine has the same drain plug.  I saw where others used it and planned the same.  Did you use a vented gas cap? Mine is so loose not sure I'd have to change it.  Where did you mount the pump? the instructions state within 2 feet of the tank.  

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I've seen this:

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/995594-fitech-tuning-steps.html

[SM69Mach 68]

Yes, I have a vented cap and so far have seen no issues with pressure in the tank.  The FP is mounted on the driver side frame rail near the muffler.  We made a heat shield for it to protect it from the exhaust heat as well.  

[ray1970 88]

I have not had as much luck as most with the fitech unit....I am on throttle body NO.4 and controller NO.3

All with different issues..

NO.4 has a throttle plate hanging issue and this is with using a return spring unlike the last 3 where I didnt need one.

I have to keep flicking the throttle or open the hood and push it back by hand..

This only happens with the motor running..

The car is put away for the winter so I will deal with it in the spring....

Good luck to the rest that are using it...... 

[fordguy69 24]

I have several thousand miles on mine and love it.  I have a fairly large roller cam with only 10.5 inches of idle vacuum and the Fitech handles it beautifully.  I have had zero issues with mine.  I have the GoEFI 8 system and used an aeromotive phantom stealth in tank pump, #8 (1/2) feed and return lines. 

 

I doubt that I will ever use a carb again.

[1969Fstback 58]

I'm bouncing back and forth on what pump I am going to use. I am building a 62 rambler for my daughter. Was gonna go with a 302, but don't want her to have to deal with a carb on cold starts. I decided to go with a 4.6 from a crown vic instead.

[69FB 12]

I have been reading up on the FiTech system on this site and others.  I like the fact it does not require a return line for the fuel since I have a 77 GMC Truck with dual tanks and thinking getting one for it first.  I am planning a Coyote swap on my mustang but plan on using the 302 in another project down the road so to say.  Really like the FiTech from what I have read.  

[1969Fstback 58]

Well it says in some parts of fitech's site the coman's center pump doesn't need to be returned. The vent part. If you open the instructions it's in red type it's an absolute requirement. I am guessing they got smacked by epa for selling a product that vents gas fumes.

[premix 12]

A good source of info and Q&A forum here if anyone is interested:  https://www.facebook.com/groups/1138882606178838/permalink/1226524717414626/