~ 1969 Building the mighty 428CJ : Tips and Tricks

[Raven R code 281]

Noticed "dots " at one end of the pushrods. I assume they all go in 1 direction but does anyone know if it matters which way?

 

Testing my memory.....the cam sprocket and gear "dot" face toward each other?

 

Thanks!

[moodster 55]

I've never assembled an FE before however... I don't think I'd assemble any motor in a garage where there is body work going on... too much dust.

 

david

[Caseyrhe 650]

Rods ends are the same. Dot on one end is from the oil mark over time from hope in top of rocker arm. To check rods, roll on a flat table, should role true.

Agree with moodster on engine in body shop, bye bye bearings

[1969_Mach1 333]

I've never assembled an FE before however... I don't think I'd assemble any motor in a garage where there is body work going on... too much dust.

 

david

+1 on that.  Be more vigilant on keeping things covered and clean.

 

Not to preach.  It's always safest to setup the timing chain and gear set before assembling the valve train even for test fitting.  This is to prevent any possible valve/piston interference.

[Raven R code 281]

Rods ends are the same. Dot on one end is from the oil mark over time from hope in top of rocker arm. To check rods, roll on a flat table, should role true.

Agree with moodster on engine in body shop, bye bye bearings

I did roll rods on flat surface to check. But the dot is about an in down from one end on the pushrods. Also, engine is at body shop facility but not in the actual area where bodywork is done. Plus I always have it covered with plastic.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Cam gear the dot is down at the 6 o-clock position, crank gear the dot is up at the 12 o-clock position.  They are vertically inline.  Don't forget the fuel pump eccentric.  Make certain the dowel pin in the cam also engages the fuel pump eccentric.  Don't forget the oil slinger on the crankshaft.

 

If you are using a performance timing chain and gear set with multiple crank sprocket available positions be certain to double check the instructions.

[Raven R code 281]

I have been updated on the front and rear intake gaskets. Was told not to use the cork pieces and use RTV instead. Does anyone have a recommendation for RTV on such a wide gap?

 

Thanks!

[1969_Mach1 333]

I've always used Permatex Ultra Black RTV.  They have other colors as well if you don't want black.  Although, the Ultra Black does seem to hold up better than the Ultra Blue.  Make sure you get it built up enough in the corners where the gaskets meets the end rails.

 

What intake gaskets are you using?  Silicone around the intake ports seems to break down.  I guess from the fuel.  I use Permatex High Tack or Edelbrock Gaskasinch on the cylinder head side of the intake ports and basically glue the gasket in place.  Then, also apply a thin film of silicone around the water passages on the cylinder head side.  On the intake manifold side do the same if you are using stock gaskets.  On the intake side If you are using something like a Fel-Pro performance gasket with sealing beads around each port only apply a thin film of silicone around the water passages.

 

Remember, when using gaskets, silicone around the water passages is merely there to help account for surface defects such as pitting around water passages, so thin films are usually enough.  I've seen people get carried away with silicone and found small sheets of it floating in the radiator.

 

Before doing any of this, set the intake on without any gaskets and check fitment.  Make certain it fits flat against both cylinder heads.

[LindenBruce 27]

Here is a pic of the oil constrictor.  This is located right under the rocker pedestal on each head.  You can buy the setscrew with the hole already drilled.  Just have to tap the passage way and screw in the constrictor.  If your engine is already running you might want to use a different method of restricting the oil going to the rockers.   B.     

[barnett468 418]

I have been updated on the front and rear intake gaskets. Was told not to use the cork pieces and use RTV instead. Does anyone have a recommendation for RTV on such a wide gap?

 

Thanks!

 

who told you not to use those?

 

you need a LOT of luck if you use silicone only and ultra grey is much better for this than ultra black.

 

to install it you also need 2 guys for an aluminum intake and 4 guys or an engine hoist for a cast iron one.

.

[1969_Mach1 333]

If he is using a stock intake manifold, they fit well and it's okay to use the rubber or cork end seals.  With aftermarket aluminum intake manifolds using end seals can some times cause sealing issues not on the end rails but at the cylinder heads since these don't fit as well as a stock intake manifold.

 

I think he can easily install an aluminum intake by himself.  If not, might be time to use some of the funds for the car towards a gym membership.  Cast iron, probably not.

[RPM 1,190]

C'mon man, when I was 19 I rebuilt a 390 for my 56 F100 and installed the intake by myself. Now today I would use a hoist :)

[barnett468 418]

Installing any intake by ones self increases the potential for it to leak or something else unpleasant to happen . The objective should be to work smarter, not harder.

.

[Caseyrhe 650]

Installing the FE boat anchors solo, as a kid, is prob why my back is so jacked these days. Special note, needs to be a HD hoist for the ci application, ha ha.

[jholmes217 65]

I use a product called "The Right Stuff" when installing intake manifolds.  You can use it for the front and back seals, or if you use the cork gaskets, use it on the corners.  It also works around the water ports.  If you do use the cork gaskets, I'd recommend using gasket cinch or the right stuff on the bottom of the gasket, install just the gasket, and let it dry.  You are basically gluing the cork gaskets in place. The main problem with the cork gaskets is they tend to move out of position otherwise when you start torquing the intake down if you use just RTV or The Right Stuff when it is still wet.

 

Also, make sure you bend the head gasket tabs down (after you install the lifter valley pan if you use it.)  These tabs can cause the intake manifold to not seat all the way down on the head and cause leaks.

 

If you are going to seriously get into FE engines, there are some books I recommend adding to your library;

1.  The Great FE Intake Comparo by Jay Brown

2.  How To Build Max-Performance Ford FE Engines by Barry Rabotnick

3.  How To Rebuild Big-Block Ford Engines by Steve Christ

4.  How To Rebuild Big-Block Ford Engines by Charles Morris (if you get the above book, you could probably pass on this, but has better pictures than the other book)

5.  High Performance Ford Engine Parts Interchange by George Reid  (great book to take to swap meets, or to confirm what sellers are selling is actually what they say it is)

[Raven R code 281]

who told you not to use those?

 

you need a LOT of luck if you use silicone only and ultra grey is much better for this than ultra black.

 

to install it you also need 2 guys for an aluminum intake and 4 guys or an engine hoist for a cast iron one.

.

My engine builder told me to toss the cork. I checked another 428cj and a 390 and they didn't use the cork either. The 390 guy said his builder said the same thing.

[Raven R code 281]

C'mon man, when I was 19 I rebuilt a 390 for my 56 F100 and installed the intake by myself. Now today I would use a hoist :)

Lol! Did the same when I was 21!.........these days.....the more help, the better. ;)

[jholmes217 65]

One more thing about FE intake manifolds.  There were many different manifolds, both factory and aftermarket, made for FE engines.  There are also many different intake manifold bolt kits made for the FE intake manifolds.  

 

I highly recommend you put the bolts you have in the manifold with the manifold still off, and measure how much bolt sticks out the bottom.  Then take a nail and stick in in the hole that bolt is supposed to go in and 1)  make sure the bolt will be long enough to catch at least 1/4 to 1/2 inch of threads (including the width of the gasket,) and 2) make sure the bolt won't bottom out.  If the bolt bottoms out, you may keep torquing waiting for the torque wrench to say you have the proper reading reading, but the threads will strip before that reading is reached.  If this happens, you will need to pull the manifold back off and helicoil repair that hole in the block.  If it one of the holes back by the firewall, this can be a real chore.

 

By the way, the back bolts will bottom out in the hole on a Blue Thunder intake manifold if you use the ARP intake manifold bolt set.  Don't ask me how I know.  Let's just say I've learned the above lesson, and I'm in the process of taking the manifold back off! 

[timsmustang 12]

I also used the Right Stuff on the front and rear of my intake manifold...worked great. 

 

When installing the intake, I used about 3-4 inches of threaded rod on the front and rear on one side.  After putting the gaskets in place and applying the sealer on the ends of the block, the threaded rods help guide the heavy intake down to the exact spot it needs to be when lowering it in place.  After it's in place, unscrew the threaded rods and install the bolts.

[barnett468 418]

the right stuff is not ideal for beginners because it skins over too quickly

[barnett468 418]

 

When installing the intake, I used about 3-4 inches of threaded rod on the front and rear on one side.  After putting the gaskets in place and applying the sealer on the ends of the block, the threaded rods help guide the heavy intake down to the exact spot it needs to be when lowering it in place.  After it's in place, unscrew the threaded rods and install the bolts.

 

And did you use rubber rod to do this since all the bolt holes on an fe intake are at an angle?

[Raven R code 281]

I got this stuff for the intake gaskets(to replace the front and rear cork) . I also plan on putting a thin coat on both sides of the gaskets the mate with the heads.

[1969_Mach1 333]

That should work fine.  I don't know about around the intake ports.  I've seen it turn into a gooey mess in those locations.  I'm not certain why.  Maybe the fuel.  Like I mentioned, I've used Permatex High Tack or Edelbrock's Gaskacinch around the intake ports.  Insturctions with Edelbrock's or Wieand's intake manifolds also say to use something like High Tack or Gaskacinch around the intake ports.

 

Are you using a stock cast iron intake manifold or is it an aftermarket aluminum intake manifold?  What gaskets are you using?

[timsmustang 12]

And did you use rubber rod to do this since all the bolt holes on an fe intake are at an angle?

No, it just slid right on at a bit of an angle.  Worked excellent!

[Raven R code 281]

Has anyone ever put a baffle in the oil pan? I was thinking of putting a baffle from left to right just before it starts to scope up towards the back. Then I was thinking that there should be a handful of small holes to let the oil run through on the way down from the rearward slope of the pan. My thought on this is that small holes would allow the returning oil to flow back through to the pickup while the baffle keeps most of the oil in the front when launching the car. Keep in mind you would only need to make the baffle about 2" high (making sure to clear the windage tray).

 

My pan has nothing and it seems like a good idea. Thoughts?