Several gauge questions re 70 Mach

[Print Dad 58]

Hello All,

Well it is the end of the season here and I would like to

do a few fixes to the car.

One of the large issues I am having is with the gauges.

The fuel gauge reads full when only 3/4 full, the oil pressure has stopped working

 

I have not investigated the oil unit - -I have in the the past - grounded the sender wire and swapped the

sender. I continue to have some issues.

 

So I am thinking it is time to replace most of the gauge section.

I was thinking of replacing the following - 

1. - Circuit Board

2. - IVR

3. - Gauges

 

I would like to do this only once - I don't want to take the dash apart again and again

Oh the car is a 70 mach - not tach

 

So here are my many questions

1. - who makes the best original style gauges

2. - Same with the circuit board and IVR

3. - Guages?

2. - Should I try to find NOS on e-bay ?

 

I would like this to work - on just one try

 

So now that I have asked - I should also ask

Am I going at this in the right way?

 

I have a small multi meter but stink at electronics and electrical

I can pull the dash and cluster - but what do I do then?

 

Well I appreciate all the advice on this and all the other items I have had in the past

 

Be well - -Thanks again

 

Sam   Print Dad

 

 

 

1. - 

[1969_Mach1 333]

For the Mach 1's, there are no repro gauges available.  If you look closely, the color on the face of the gauges are slightly different than others.  When I did mine, I replaced the IVR, printed circuit panel, cleaned and repainted everythng to look original and like new, replaced all of the bulb covers, polished the lensed, and lastly replaced any gauge that wasn't working correctly.  For mine, that was the spedo and alternator gauge.  For the gauges, I purchased used tested and working original gauges from Perogie Enterprises.  Sometimes Perogie Enterprises will have NOS items as well.

 

There are places like Redline Gauge Works, and Rockeman's Classic Cougar Innovations that can repair gauges.  Redline Gauge Works can rebuild the entire instrument panel, bezel included, if you want to go that far with it.

[Brian Conway 264]

Getting behind the instrument cluster you might end up with more problems than you want.  The fuel sender and gauge reading are a problem shared by all Mustangs of the 60's.  Most likely the fuel sending unit is the culprit and nothing to do with the gauge or the IVR.  The oil gauge issue is handled by most of us with an addiitional oil gauge.  A gauge pod or a lower dash gauge would be the easiest.  Many examples here of guys doing just that.  Brian

[1969_Mach1 333]

There might very well be some sending unit issues.  But removing the instrument panel appears more daunting than it actually is.  Removing the dash pad is simply removing some Philips head screws.  And remember the clock panel stays attached to the dash pad (unless somebody broke the clock panel) and is removed with the dash pad.  There are also two screws for the dash pad pointing upward above the radio.  After that, there are six screws, one electrical connector, and a speedo cable to unclip and the IP comes out.  It might take an hour to remove the IP the first time.  After that, 30 minutes or so. 

 

I said it many times, I tried one of those pods on the console.  They work fine.  But they are too far out of your line of sight and almost never get looked at.  You cannot see them at a quick glance while driving.  Then if you need to remove radio/heater control bezel, those gauges need to be removed which means removing the upper part of the console.

[Print Dad 58]

Hello all,

Thanks so much for the info.

I probably should have mentioned that I have had this

car for about 40 years and have had he dash out about 25 times

for various reasons. 

I will be able to pull the cluster OK butI just don't want to keep pulling

things apart. I would like to do this one final time and have things working.

 

I did see gauges at MU and they look pretty close but I had not looked too closely.

I will investigate a iittle more especially Perogie Enterprises.  Thanks so much for the

heads up.

 

I will keep you all informed as to my progress and direction 

 

Thanks again - -Sam

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Sam, Before you pull the dash test the gauges by grounding the sending unit wires. if the gauges are working it should peg to the high side.

most times it is the connection or bad sending unit. As for the gas level problem it may be a simple adjustment to the float arm to make it read right levels.

Your statement of having the dash out many times could have added to your troubles, it does not take much to bend or miss a line the film contacts when you install the main harness connector. Another place to look at.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Sam,

I would like a tach and gauges with actual numbers on them but I want to retain the stock wood grain bezel. Take a look at the New Vintage USA series 67. I've seen posts that say: "they look great but the way they mount sucks!!". Dakota Digital also has analog gauges that look good and appear easier to mount- look at their VHX. They say they fit directly into the stock instrument bezel of a 69-70 without modification. 

If you change one you have to change them all to make them look right. That will put you back $8-900, and of course if you are thinking of putting it back to stock this is the wrong direction.

[Mike65 476]

I am thinking about getting the Nu-Vintage 69-70 performance black gauges.

 

http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/69-70-mustang-performance-black/

[stangnet33 88]

I am thinking about getting the Nu-Vintage 69-70 performance black gauges.

 

http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/69-70-mustang-performance-black/

 

That's a good looking option Mike

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I am thinking about getting the Nu-Vintage 69-70 performance black gauges.

 

http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/69-70-mustang-performance-black/

Those do look nice and are the ones I was looking at. If you get them let us know if you have any mounting issues. Thanks

[Ken's 70 MACH 1 10]

PrintDad,

 

  If you are looking for gauges, I have a fully functional set of non-tach gauges w/circuit board from my 70 MACH 1.  I'm not trying to sell them on here (although I will), but I pulled mine out and replaced it with the Dakota Digital VHX cluster.  They are collecting dust now.  For all of the folks in here, I HIGHLY recommend the VHX setup.  Although it's not cheap I couldn't be happier with it and it was not hard to install.  Looks pretty vintage and functions very very well. 

  Installation isn't too bad and it certainly makes pulling the gauge cluster out in the future SUPER easy.  The cluster and the separate clock connect to the control box via CAT-5 cable!  All in all it took a decent bit of time to install but that's because I had to trace the wires from the printed circuit board and then splice them into the master controller.  I'm precise when it comes to wiring so I took my time.

 

  Why the VHX system vs NewVintage?  All in all they're probably about the same, but I like the way the small gauges look better on the VHX and Dakota has additional modules you can add on.  It's also SUPER easy to program and I ran the two programming buttons to a discreet location on the console. 

 

Other Notes: 

   I mounted the control box to the windshield plastic heater vent in the center right behind the dash pad.

   The old speedo cable gets pulled and you'll use the electronic pulse speedo.  Takes a 1 mile drive to program it and it's dead on.  I used the old speed firewall grommet to run other wires through (aux power circuits for other projects) 

   I eventually had to replace my spark plug wires when I put in a MSD2 Blaster Coil because of interference.  I had no problems for 4-5 months with my Pertronix II coil.

   I went with the matching clock on the passenger side.  It's a pretty good looking setup and as mentioned plugs in via CAT 5 cable. 

   I added an additional dimmer switch made by Dakota for ease of use but in retrospect the day time and night time contrast / dimming are easy to adjust with the buttons.

   I got different aftermarket buttons ($3 a piece) for the programmer because they are lower profile. 

   I added a Dakota Dual Fan Controller next to the control box so the engine temp reading gets sent to it which triggers the fans (individually and low/high).  This allowed me to not add another thermostat and also not use a temp probe in the radiator.  I couldn't use a temp probe in the radiator because my dual fan had a compact shroud. 

   My two center "analog" gauges are Speed and Tach.  There is a programmable digital readout below it that I use for speed and any variety of other options.  They are fully programmable. 

 

If anyone in the group has questions about the setup, hit me up.  I haven't contributed much to this forum, but certainly look forward to it in the future.

 

-Ken

[RPM 1,190]

Hey Ken, welcome to the forum, Merry Christmas, Feliz Navidad, and all the other things. Any chance of you posting some pics of your car with the gauges? I've got a brother who lives down the road from you in Round Rock. I sure love your part of the world.

[Ken's 70 MACH 1 10]

RPM and all other users,

 

  No problem, I just uploaded a few pics to my album that shows the VHX gauge cluster with and without lights on.  Note that the needles light up red with the lettering lighting up white on the black gauge background.  It looks a tad blurry in the pics but I assure you that they are clear as day. 

 

  Again, I highly recommend going this route.  I've had several old Fords (mostly Mustangs) throughout the years and have disassembled and fixed gauges, lights, circuit boards, etc on countless occasions.  The VHX cluster makes it turn-key so you don't have mess around with a VR, broken printed circuit boards and multimeters. 

 

 As far as plug and play vs the VintageUSA version, it sure is.  I've not messed with the VintageUSA version, but I assess that it took me under 20 minutes to mount the gauges on both the clock and instrument cluster.  You retain the front piece and that's just about it.  All the old gauges, lenses, circuit board and large metal rear housing are not needed. 

 

  Texas is certainly nice this time of year.  I just moved here 6 months ago (I'm in the Army) and although the summer was pretty brutal, it's much nicer that dealing with 2 ft of snow like I saw in Virginia last winter. 

 

Ken