Ken's 70 MACH 1

Sermo27, Like Raven said, it's your flexible, printed circuit board on the back. You can run a multimeter to the fuel sender unit and ground it but that will read 70-10 ohms. Power itself comes from the CVR on the flexible circuit board. Ken

RPM and all other users, No problem, I just uploaded a few pics to my album that shows the VHX gauge cluster with and without lights on. Note that the needles light up red with the lettering lighting up white on the black gauge background. It looks a tad blurry in the pics but I assure you that they are clear as day. Again, I highly recommend going this route. I've had several old Fords (mostly Mustangs) throughout the years and have disassembled and fixed gauges, lights, circuit boards, etc on countless occasions. The VHX cluster makes it turn-key so you don't have mess around with a VR, broken printed circuit boards and multimeters. As far as plug and play vs the VintageUSA version, it sure is. I've not messed with the VintageUSA version, but I assess that it took me under 20 minutes to mount the gauges on both the clock and instrument cluster. You retain the front piece and that's just about it. All the old gauges, lenses, circuit board and large metal rear housing are not needed. Texas is certainly nice this time of year. I just moved here 6 months ago (I'm in the Army) and although the summer was pretty brutal, it's much nicer that dealing with 2 ft of snow like I saw in Virginia last winter. Ken

PrintDad, If you are looking for gauges, I have a fully functional set of non-tach gauges w/circuit board from my 70 MACH 1. I'm not trying to sell them on here (although I will), but I pulled mine out and replaced it with the Dakota Digital VHX cluster. They are collecting dust now. For all of the folks in here, I HIGHLY recommend the VHX setup. Although it's not cheap I couldn't be happier with it and it was not hard to install. Looks pretty vintage and functions very very well. Installation isn't too bad and it certainly makes pulling the gauge cluster out in the future SUPER easy. The cluster and the separate clock connect to the control box via CAT-5 cable! All in all it took a decent bit of time to install but that's because I had to trace the wires from the printed circuit board and then splice them into the master controller. I'm precise when it comes to wiring so I took my time. Why the VHX system vs NewVintage? All in all they're probably about the same, but I like the way the small gauges look better on the VHX and Dakota has additional modules you can add on. It's also SUPER easy to program and I ran the two programming buttons to a discreet location on the console. Other Notes: I mounted the control box to the windshield plastic heater vent in the center right behind the dash pad. The old speedo cable gets pulled and you'll use the electronic pulse speedo. Takes a 1 mile drive to program it and it's dead on. I used the old speed firewall grommet to run other wires through (aux power circuits for other projects) I eventually had to replace my spark plug wires when I put in a MSD2 Blaster Coil because of interference. I had no problems for 4-5 months with my Pertronix II coil. I went with the matching clock on the passenger side. It's a pretty good looking setup and as mentioned plugs in via CAT 5 cable. I added an additional dimmer switch made by Dakota for ease of use but in retrospect the day time and night time contrast / dimming are easy to adjust with the buttons. I got different aftermarket buttons ($3 a piece) for the programmer because they are lower profile. I added a Dakota Dual Fan Controller next to the control box so the engine temp reading gets sent to it which triggers the fans (individually and low/high). This allowed me to not add another thermostat and also not use a temp probe in the radiator. I couldn't use a temp probe in the radiator because my dual fan had a compact shroud. My two center "analog" gauges are Speed and Tach. There is a programmable digital readout below it that I use for speed and any variety of other options. They are fully programmable. If anyone in the group has questions about the setup, hit me up. I haven't contributed much to this forum, but certainly look forward to it in the future. -Ken