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bryonbush

headlight issue

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last month my alternator and voltage regulator went bad so replaced both. few weeks later i was driving down the road at night since the new parts were installed and switched to the high beams. got the flicker then the lights died but low beams worked fine. asked on the forums and everyone said it was a switch. yesterday i put in a new switch and new scott drake halogen bulbs. tonight while driving, got the flicker then lost all lights. 

 

so whats going on all of a sudden? is it the voltage reg maybe throwing issues? one thing that does have me curious is when i swapped out the motors the PO didnt have a ground wire attached to the back of the Alt. So i never hooked it up either. when i did the alt swap, we put it on. would this be a possible issue?

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Are you getting a click from the headlight switch circuit breaker then the lights go out? Mine was doing that after I installed halogen high beams and I had wired the lights backwards. Reversed the wiring and it worked fine.

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Ray hear.

After replacing far to many headlamp switches in my 1970 I finally went with the relay setup...problem solved(for me)

Headlamps going out at night was not a good thing...sometimes they would go on and off a bitt before the final black out.

Cars would pull over thinking I wanted to pass....what I really needed was to follow  there tail lights to get home...

 

Aging copper wires in the 45 year old harness  will create a lot of resistants' over time  kicking out the thermo

switch built into  the headlamp switch....The after market ones appear to be way more sensitive about this..   

 

Ray.

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The headlight wiring goes through the dimmer switch, so perhaps check that as well.  it should switch through a full 12V when operated.  Sometimes the wiring is worn through or intermittently grounding.

 

Just another thing to check, or replace......

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Running halogens through the headlight switch without a relay is asking for trouble (flickering).  I also concur with the dimmer switch being bad as a possible cause.  Finally, corrosion within the wiring (connectors, pins, wires themselves) adds resistance and increases current load, which causes  the headlight circuit breaker to break on/off/on/off (i.e. flickering).

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the flickering issue started before I put in these new bulbs. And the Halogens arnt the high tech H4 ones, just basic Scott Drake's which draws no more power than the others according to their specs. I replaced the headlight and the dimmer switch. the down side is i dont know if it was the new headlight switch or putting the new alt/volt regulator on that started the issue. What i do find odd is it seems like the two outside bulbs are running brights now all the time. when i kick the "brights" on, the lights actually get darker with all 4 on before i start getting the issues. This has me thinking that the switch is goofed in some way. I did order a relay kit as they were on sale, but would like to get this figured out still.

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Ray here. Rambling...
As a LONG time tech (Or what ever they call us)
Most electrical parts replacement are more from poor testing or none..(Did not fix the problem)
Yes grounds can be a problem and should always be looked at first.
Most of what I see is the OEM or replacement parts not up to the task your asking  or it was just crap in the first place...

Ray.

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Just tried to adjust my headlights on my sons car and the lights started fading and flickering in an out when the bright lights turned on.  So guess I have the problems described in this post.  I have new harnesses, switches, regulators, and bulbs.  Guess I need to go ahead and install the relay kit.  Which kit and where have you guys had success with.  I would like one that does not require cutting the existing factory harnesses.  

 

Thanks

Rick

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Yes I suspect the combo of after market headlights (50 Watts each) and an aftermarket headlight switch was causing the problem. I purchased the dual relay box option for safety. The headlights seem to work fine now. The brights would not stay on for more than about 10 seconds before. Was very clean and did not have to cut harnesses. Did have to mount 2 relay boxes and a circuit breaker.

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